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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Albany WA
    Posts
    2

    Default Sherwood 10 inch Contractors Saw SWCS-1254

    Has anyone purchased this Table Saw from Timbecon: https://www.timbecon.com.au/sawing/t...ontractors-saw ? Are you happy with it?

    The thread below, '10" Table Saw for under $1500', mentions the Sherwood SWCS-1254 is essentially a rebadged Ridgid R4512.

    It does look similar in photos but is there any evidence on the internet that it comes from the same factory in China? What is the name of that factory?

    There are lots of good reviews about the Ridgid R4512 on the internet. If the Sherwood SWCS-1254 is nearly identical then it could well suit my needs and budget.

    Any comments to assist my decision, please?

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Eastern Suburbs Melbourne
    Posts
    2,568

    Default

    I saw this saw at the Melbourne Wood show, one of the salesmen there raved about this saw, anyone know anything about it?

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    3

    Default

    I'm setting up a small garage wood workshop to make cabinets, furniture and other projects for around the home. I've been looking at table saws and my shortlist is:

    1. Harvey HW110LGE-30 (3HP) - $2,199 from Bigger Boys Toys
    2. Sherwood Hybrid TS-250-HL (2HP) - $1,899 Timbecon
    3. Sherwood Contractor SWCS-1254 (now 3HP) - $1,249 Timbecon

    The SWCS is appealing as it is a bit cheaper than the other two and has its own inbuilt mobile base so would be easier to move around a small work area. I haven't found any reviews on it in the forums other than it is is re-badged Ridgid R4512.

    I'd also like some help on making a final decision on which saw to go for. Will the SWCS do the job or should I go for a better quality saw??

    Regards

    Lanee





  5. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Sutherland Shire, Sydney
    Age
    71
    Posts
    1,301

    Default

    We have a Sherwood Contractor SWCS-1254 saw at the local woodworking club. I regard it as an entry level machine that will do the job, but only for a hobbiest who is prepared to fiddle with it to get it to perform with any semblence of accuracy.
    The machined table slots for the mitre gauge are not the same dimensions. There is 19 thou difference in width between the left and right slot on our machine. Not a huge problem if you only use the left slot, and if making a sled for cross cutting, you will need to customise the size of the UHMW or hardwood strips that run in the slots. The cast iron table top section seems to be fairly flat, but the sheet metal side extensions are a bugger to align and to keep them aligned.

    The slots in the table top are parallel to the saw blade, one of the few things that were right with this saw from day one.

    The fence has been the source of much frustration with our machine. There seems to be very little leeway between being tight enough to not move when ripping a length of timber and loose enough to be able to be slid along with reasonable ease then lock it into it's new position. After much fiddling with the nyloc nut at the far end of the fence, we have found the sweet spot, but that is only part of the solution.

    So now we have fence that moves fairly well and locks, but locking it parallel to the blade is a major challenge, making the saw close to unusable when the far end of the fence can be either toe in or toe out, depending on many variables, which until very recently we did not understand.

    In the last few days, we think we have found the problem which is the width of the plastic pad that slides along the back rail. This pad needs to be quite a bit wider so that it doesn't 'rack' as it moves along. We will probably make a thin plywood piece about 3 times the width of the fence and probably wax the sliding surface. It will be towards the end of next week before any experimenting can be done, hopefully the modification will resolve the problem.

    As for the increase in power in the latest model saw, this would be a good thing, but we haven't had any problems with the motor performance on our unit.

    Given the buying decision again, I would spend the extra dollars on the Harvey machine. I know it is considerably more expensive than the Sherwood, but we certainly have had our moneys worth of frustration with our saw.

    Please let us know what machine you eventually buy, and more importantly, how it performs with regards to accuracy and repeatability of cuts.

    Alan...

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    3

    Default

    Thanks Alan, that is really valuable feedback. I always liked the Harvey but was hoping I could save some money to spend on other machinery.

    It looks like it will be the Harvey now, which has received great reviews in this forum. I'll let you know once I pull the trigger.

    lanee

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    inverloch
    Posts
    472

    Default

    Good decision Ianee. I have the Laguna Platinum which is the same saw and it does everything I want. I have had it for five years now. I think if you bought this saw it would be a one off purchase and you would never need to upgrade.
    The Grizzly website has a terrific manual for this saw as my manual had hardly any information. Its the manual for the Grizzly 0690.

    Good luck

  8. #7
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    2,357

    Default

    I recently ordered the Sherwood TS-250-CH-30-F. https://www.timbecon.com.au/sawing/1...hd-cabinet-saw

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Eastern Suburbs Melbourne
    Posts
    2,568

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by planemaker View Post
    I recently ordered the Sherwood TS-250-CH-30-F. https://www.timbecon.com.au/sawing/1...hd-cabinet-saw
    Interested in your feedback on this. What made you buy this particular saw?

  10. #9
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    2,357

    Default

    a 5HP Single Phase Motor was the main attraction.

  11. #10
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    2,357

    Default

    The newly purchased Sherwood Full Width HD Cabinet Saw has been calibrating in for a 90 degree cut in both rip and crosscut modes. Its a very quite machine during start up and under-load. Note; this machine is supplied with the wider 15amp earth pin.


  12. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    37

    Default

    What are your thoughts on this saw?

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Location
    Australia
    Age
    46
    Posts
    3

    Default Sherwood Contractor Daw

    Quote Originally Posted by Uncle Al View Post
    We have a Sherwood Contractor SWCS-1254 saw at the local woodworking club. I regard it as an entry level machine that will do the job, but only for a hobbiest who is prepared to fiddle with it to get it to perform with any semblence of accuracy.
    The machined table slots for the mitre gauge are not the same dimensions. There is 19 thou difference in width between the left and right slot on our machine. Not a huge problem if you only use the left slot, and if making a sled for cross cutting, you will need to customise the size of the UHMW or hardwood strips that run in the slots. The cast iron table top section seems to be fairly flat, but the sheet metal side extensions are a bugger to align and to keep them aligned.

    The slots in the table top are parallel to the saw blade, one of the few things that were right with this saw from day one.

    The fence has been the source of much frustration with our machine. There seems to be very little leeway between being tight enough to not move when ripping a length of timber and loose enough to be able to be slid along with reasonable ease then lock it into it's new position. After much fiddling with the nyloc nut at the far end of the fence, we have found the sweet spot, but that is only part of the solution.

    So now we have fence that moves fairly well and locks, but locking it parallel to the blade is a major challenge, making the saw close to unusable when the far end of the fence can be either toe in or toe out, depending on many variables, which until very recently we did not understand.

    In the last few days, we think we have found the problem which is the width of the plastic pad that slides along the back rail. This pad needs to be quite a bit wider so that it doesn't 'rack' as it moves along. We will probably make a thin plywood piece about 3 times the width of the fence and probably wax the sliding surface. It will be towards the end of next week before any experimenting can be done, hopefully the modification will resolve the problem.

    As for the increase in power in the latest model saw, this would be a good thing, but we haven't had any problems with the motor performance on our unit.

    Given the buying decision again, I would spend the extra dollars on the Harvey machine. I know it is considerably more expensive than the Sherwood, but we certainly have had our moneys worth of frustration with our saw.

    Please let us know what machine you eventually buy, and more importantly, how it performs with regards to accuracy and repeatability of cuts.

    Alan...
    Hi Alan, I know it has been quite a while since you posted this but I was wondering how you went adding ply to the far end of the fence. Did this work and if so how did you go about doing it?

    I have spent quite a few hours tuning the saw and have got it pretty good. I generally get the fence when locked close to the blade having only up to 0.15mm difference which is great but as it moves further from the blade the distance from the t slot can be up to 1mm difference from the tslot either end of the fence.

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Sutherland Shire, Sydney
    Age
    71
    Posts
    1,301

    Default

    A wider piece of plywood replaced the original pad as per the photo. It is some time since I did this, but from memory I just replicated the shape of the plastic pad using a bandsaw and a bit of sanding. It certainly improved the overall use of the fence, pretty well eliminating the racking, but we still had a problem with the fence locking consistently in the correct position.
    We have since replaced the whole fence system with a Biesemeyer type fence which has transformed the saw into a pleasure to use.

    If I had to persevere with the original fence, I would try a much wider piece of plywood to see if that would alleviate the racking problem.

    I am away form the wood club at the moment. I will try to remember to take another photo of the pad later this week for you.

    Alan...

    20190724_142737.jpg

    PS - Please change your location from Australia to an actual area, you will find you will get more interaction from members, especially when asking for help with suppliers etc.

  15. #14
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    1

    Default

    This Sherwood is a private label Chinese table saw. You won't find any manufacturer info on it as there's no such manufacturer....

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