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5th November 2019, 05:06 PM #1New Member
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Sherwood Planer Thicknesser motor upgrade
Hi all
i have recently purchased a 10" Sherwood Planer thicknesser second hand
i have some jarrah to form and the guy reckoned it was a little under powered for that.
i have a spare 3hp single phase motor knocking around from an old table saw
My question is if the new motor came with a 15a plug and lead i assume it is 15a will i need to change all wiring and switches to 15a too
thanks in advance
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6th November 2019, 09:59 PM #2New Member
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motor
just to add a little more content the previous motor was induction 240v 10a 1100w i think as there is no sticker
the replacement is 240v 14a 3hp
basically just hoping that the switches will handle the extra amperage i am happy to rewire with 15a cord but cant really afford the switches too
IMG_3271[1].jpg
Thanks for looking
Phil
P.S i will be happy to share all modification photos on completion
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7th November 2019, 01:38 AM #3DISCLAIMER
No liability is accepted by UBeaut or the Wood Working Forum's administrators
or moderators for advice offered by members posting replies
or asking questions regarding electrical work.
We strongly advise contacting a Licensed Tradeperson for all electrical work.WARNING
Information supplied within posts is not to be considered as detailed formal instructions to complete a task.
Members following such information do so at their own risk
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7th November 2019, 08:40 AM #4GOLD MEMBER
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This is speaking from general principles, and no direct knowledge of the beast in question, so Beware!
I suspect that you're probably safest rewiring - shouldn't be anything major.
You could pull the switch and have a look at it - there might be a current marking on it somewhere (see pic). That doesn't mean the wiring itself is capable of handling more than 10A though, but you could probably get an idea from the thickness - here's a link to some basics: Matching Wire Size to Circuit Amperage
Most of the time, motors pull most of the juice when they start up, and then settle to run at lower current. However (and again, this is pure supposition), whenever the jointer is under load - quite a bit of the time I guess - it's going to draw more current, so I'd err on the side of caution.
IMG_9985.jpg
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7th November 2019, 09:38 AM #5Woodworking mechanic
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Another important consideration would be the rpm of the new motor vs rpm of the old motor. They should be the same for correct rotational speed of the cutter head.
This also applies to the pulley diameter if belt driven.
As you say the old motor is missing the sticker, I would try and find out the rpm of than motor from the manual or from TimbeconLast edited by Lappa; 7th November 2019 at 09:41 AM. Reason: Additional info
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7th November 2019, 02:41 PM #6New Member
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OK rewiring
Thank you for the reply's
I am rewiring with heavy duty 15a extension lead i have 2 15a sockets directly on the board in the garage so all should be ok there
I have the original dol starter that came with the motor so will use that as main switch so good there to
Only worrying thing there is a stop switch at the rear of the machine twist type .It states 10a on the switch so no good but i have looked on rs components au and a 16a stop switch is $200 i cant even find one on ebay with the rating i need
anyone know where i could get one a little cheaper
thanks
The old motor is 1100w there is a sticker on the machine but it doesn't give rotation speed and the new pulley is 4mm bigger than the original, new motor is 2850rpm will this be ok this is the first thicknesser and jointer i ever owned and now worried i will power it that much that the blades will shoot out and cut bits of me
thanks again
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7th November 2019, 03:37 PM #7.
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I have 13 year old Sherwood 10" unit that also has an 1100W motor. My manual says the cutter block speed is 3750 rpm so you should be able to work out from the drive and cutter block pulley ratios if your new setup will achieve this. Their latest machines have a 2200W motor and 5500 rpm cutter block but presumably they have beefed up whatever is required to achieve this.
The old motor itself might show its rotation speed. My machine is buried under a heap of shed crap so I can't get at at it ATM. Even then, getting at the motor inside the machine is a PITA so I will let you have a go first.
You will have to be very careful about going above the recommended rotational specs.
The best practice way of wiring a machine of this power rating is to use a properly rated Contactor type switch. Then any ON and ESTOP switches do not have the full current of the machine going through them - instead they trigger the contractor and then the contactor does the heavy current load switching. Then you can use low current ON and ESTOP switches. I use the $14 500mA Estop switches from Altronics on my gear.
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7th November 2019, 04:10 PM #8GOLD MEMBER
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Are the rest of the mechanicals of the machine going to be up to the increased power? You have to keep in mind that Australian conditions (ie. hardwoods) are probably the toughest a machine like this is likely to face. I'd be more inclined to stick with what you've got and just take smaller passes. Just saying.
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7th November 2019, 05:24 PM #9SENIOR MEMBER
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My 15 yr old 10" Sherwood has seen way more old Jarrah that I'm comfortable admitting. Anything from second hand pickets to near on 100 year old Jarrah flooring.
Get a set of replacement blades from a saw doctor (or two) as the blades with it, while great value, are not great steel. Take small passes, and you'll be fine..
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7th November 2019, 06:27 PM #10SENIOR MEMBER
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7th November 2019, 09:48 PM #11New Member
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Thanks for the input
IMG_3189[1].jpg
This is my starter it is the 1 for the motor.
i am now worried i am under powering it the new motor i am putting on is only 2850 rpm.
IMG_3281[1].jpg
this is the switch it says 240v 10a on it can i still use this switch?
IMG_3272[1].JPG
can anyone tell me where this cable? goes the pic is looking up in the motor space.
Thanks to everyone for your help.
Please share your thoughts.
Thanks.
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26th November 2019, 05:51 PM #12New Member
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Hi all
so i lost my bottle
Turns out the new motor will run the cutting head at 200rpm faster than as standard
So ended up not using it as i was a little apprehensive as it is the first one i have owned
Now i have been trying to set up the machine
i got significant snipe on first run had a good look around and found the tables weren't aligned
i now have both in-feed and out-feed on the same plane
but have now come across another problem
if i set the blades to the high of the out-feed table the blades touch the underneath of the out-feed table
wont rotate
can anyone help with a super idiot guide on how to fix this save me pulling out ALL MY HAIR
Thanks in advance
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26th November 2019, 06:03 PM #13.
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26th November 2019, 06:56 PM #14GOLD MEMBER
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Does that mean the outfeed table is too low, or high? (you don't make it clear whether the 'underneath' of the outfeed is the underneath of the top or the bottom.) Can you adjust it up (or down) until it clears the blades and then make a corresponding adjustment to the infeed table? Forget changing the motor unless you're contemplating a change to a spiral cutter head, 1-1/2hp should be sufficient for a 10" machine unless you're going to give it an absolute pizzling, in which case there will be plenty of other mechanical parts failing as well.
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26th November 2019, 10:36 PM #15
There are two adjustments on the infeed and outfeed tables, the overall height is adjustable up and down and the tables themselves can be tilted to raise or lower the table ends.
Here is a quick and dirty way to set them, but you need two identical straight, flat and parallel lengths of timber. A pair of 42 X 19 X 900 pine shorts from Bunnies will do providing that they are flat and straight.
Firstly slacken off all the screws on the hinges so the tables can flop around and be lifted up and down too. Next, place a sheet of A4 paper on the plattern. Lay the two lengths of timber on top so they straddle both tables and then lower the cutter head until it clamps the timbers down onto the paper and the plattern. Raise the tables by the hinges until they touch the timbers evenly at the hinge end and a bit more firmly at the roller end. Then put a bit of wood through. If the snipe is still there the repeat the set up but with two sheets of paper; if that doesn’t improve things then your cutter block is probably racking on the support pillars and there isn’t much you can do about that.
Rub in some parafin wax (or Silbergleit if you have it) on the plattern and tables to reduce friction then scrub the rollers with a metho soaked cloth to improve their grip.Nothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak.
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