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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2019
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    WA
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    6

    Default Sherwood Planer Thicknesser motor upgrade

    Hi all
    i have recently purchased a 10" Sherwood Planer thicknesser second hand
    i have some jarrah to form and the guy reckoned it was a little under powered for that.
    i have a spare 3hp single phase motor knocking around from an old table saw

    My question is if the new motor came with a 15a plug and lead i assume it is 15a will i need to change all wiring and switches to 15a too

    thanks in advance

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2019
    Location
    WA
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    6

    Default motor

    Quote Originally Posted by Flashizell View Post
    Hi all
    i have recently purchased a 10" Sherwood Planer thicknesser second hand
    i have some jarrah to form and the guy reckoned it was a little under powered for that.
    i have a spare 3hp single phase motor knocking around from an old table saw

    My question is if the new motor came with a 15a plug and lead i assume it is 15a will i need to change all wiring and switches to 15a too

    thanks in advance
    just to add a little more content the previous motor was induction 240v 10a 1100w i think as there is no sticker

    the replacement is 240v 14a 3hp

    basically just hoping that the switches will handle the extra amperage i am happy to rewire with 15a cord but cant really afford the switches too

    IMG_3271[1].jpg


    Thanks for looking
    Phil
    P.S i will be happy to share all modification photos on completion

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Conder, ACT
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    73
    Posts
    5,837

    Default

    DISCLAIMER

    No liability is accepted by UBeaut or the Wood Working Forum's administrators
    or moderators for advice offered by members posting replies
    or asking questions regarding electrical work.
    We strongly advise contacting a Licensed Tradeperson for all electrical work.
    WARNING

    Information supplied within posts is not to be considered as detailed formal instructions to complete a task.
    Members following such information do so at their own risk


  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    Newcastle
    Posts
    249

    Default

    This is speaking from general principles, and no direct knowledge of the beast in question, so Beware!

    I suspect that you're probably safest rewiring - shouldn't be anything major.

    You could pull the switch and have a look at it - there might be a current marking on it somewhere (see pic). That doesn't mean the wiring itself is capable of handling more than 10A though, but you could probably get an idea from the thickness - here's a link to some basics: Matching Wire Size to Circuit Amperage

    Most of the time, motors pull most of the juice when they start up, and then settle to run at lower current. However (and again, this is pure supposition), whenever the jointer is under load - quite a bit of the time I guess - it's going to draw more current, so I'd err on the side of caution.

    IMG_9985.jpg

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Sydney Upper North Shore
    Posts
    3,261

    Default

    Another important consideration would be the rpm of the new motor vs rpm of the old motor. They should be the same for correct rotational speed of the cutter head.
    This also applies to the pulley diameter if belt driven.
    As you say the old motor is missing the sticker, I would try and find out the rpm of than motor from the manual or from Timbecon
    Last edited by Lappa; 7th Nov 2019 at 09:41 AM. Reason: Additional info

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2019
    Location
    WA
    Posts
    6

    Default OK rewiring

    Quote Originally Posted by Bernmc View Post
    This is speaking from general principles, and no direct knowledge of the beast in question, so Beware!

    I suspect that you're probably safest rewiring - shouldn't be anything major.

    You could pull the switch and have a look at it - there might be a current marking on it somewhere (see pic). That doesn't mean the wiring itself is capable of handling more than 10A though, but you could probably get an idea from the thickness - here's a link to some basics: Matching Wire Size to Circuit Amperage

    Most of the time, motors pull most of the juice when they start up, and then settle to run at lower current. However (and again, this is pure supposition), whenever the jointer is under load - quite a bit of the time I guess - it's going to draw more current, so I'd err on the side of caution.

    IMG_9985.jpg


    Thank you for the reply's
    I am rewiring with heavy duty 15a extension lead i have 2 15a sockets directly on the board in the garage so all should be ok there
    I have the original dol starter that came with the motor so will use that as main switch so good there to
    Only worrying thing there is a stop switch at the rear of the machine twist type .It states 10a on the switch so no good but i have looked on rs components au and a 16a stop switch is $200 i cant even find one on ebay with the rating i need
    anyone know where i could get one a little cheaper
    thanks

    The old motor is 1100w there is a sticker on the machine but it doesn't give rotation speed and the new pulley is 4mm bigger than the original, new motor is 2850rpm will this be ok this is the first thicknesser and jointer i ever owned and now worried i will power it that much that the blades will shoot out and cut bits of me
    thanks again

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    23,274

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Flashizell View Post
    The old motor is 1100w there is a sticker on the machine but it doesn't give rotation speed and the new pulley is 4mm bigger than the original, new motor is 2850rpm will this be ok this is the first thicknesser and jointer i ever owned and now worried i will power it that much that the blades will shoot out and cut bits of me
    thanks again
    I have 13 year old Sherwood 10" unit that also has an 1100W motor. My manual says the cutter block speed is 3750 rpm so you should be able to work out from the drive and cutter block pulley ratios if your new setup will achieve this. Their latest machines have a 2200W motor and 5500 rpm cutter block but presumably they have beefed up whatever is required to achieve this.

    The old motor itself might show its rotation speed. My machine is buried under a heap of shed crap so I can't get at at it ATM. Even then, getting at the motor inside the machine is a PITA so I will let you have a go first.

    You will have to be very careful about going above the recommended rotational specs.

    The best practice way of wiring a machine of this power rating is to use a properly rated Contactor type switch. Then any ON and ESTOP switches do not have the full current of the machine going through them - instead they trigger the contractor and then the contactor does the heavy current load switching. Then you can use low current ON and ESTOP switches. I use the $14 500mA Estop switches from Altronics on my gear.
    .

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Albury
    Posts
    1,658

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    Are the rest of the mechanicals of the machine going to be up to the increased power? You have to keep in mind that Australian conditions (ie. hardwoods) are probably the toughest a machine like this is likely to face. I'd be more inclined to stick with what you've got and just take smaller passes. Just saying.
    Forum members PM me for a discount on all my products - https://www.ebay.com.au/str/aldavsstore

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Jarrahdale WA
    Posts
    283

    Default

    My 15 yr old 10" Sherwood has seen way more old Jarrah that I'm comfortable admitting. Anything from second hand pickets to near on 100 year old Jarrah flooring.
    Get a set of replacement blades from a saw doctor (or two) as the blades with it, while great value, are not great steel. Take small passes, and you'll be fine..

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Perth WA Australia
    Posts
    509

    Default


  11. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2019
    Location
    WA
    Posts
    6

    Default Thanks for the input

    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    I have 13 year old Sherwood 10" unit that also has an 1100W motor. My manual says the cutter block speed is 3750 rpm so you should be able to work out from the drive and cutter block pulley ratios if your new setup will achieve this. Their latest machines have a 2200W motor and 5500 rpm cutter block but presumably they have beefed up whatever is required to achieve this.

    The old motor itself might show its rotation speed. My machine is buried under a heap of shed crap so I can't get at at it ATM. Even then, getting at the motor inside the machine is a PITA so I will let you have a go first.

    You will have to be very careful about going above the recommended rotational specs.

    The best practice way of wiring a machine of this power rating is to use a properly rated Contactor type switch. Then any ON and ESTOP switches do not have the full current of the machine going through them - instead they trigger the contractor and then the contactor does the heavy current load switching. Then you can use low current ON and ESTOP switches. I use the $14 500mA Estop switches from Altronics on my gear.
    .
    IMG_3189[1].jpg

    This is my starter it is the 1 for the motor.
    i am now worried i am under powering it the new motor i am putting on is only 2850 rpm.
    IMG_3281[1].jpg

    this is the switch it says 240v 10a on it can i still use this switch?
    IMG_3272[1].JPG

    can anyone tell me where this cable? goes the pic is looking up in the motor space.

    Thanks to everyone for your help.
    Please share your thoughts.
    Thanks.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2019
    Location
    WA
    Posts
    6

    Default

    Hi all
    so i lost my bottle
    Turns out the new motor will run the cutting head at 200rpm faster than as standard
    So ended up not using it as i was a little apprehensive as it is the first one i have owned

    Now i have been trying to set up the machine
    i got significant snipe on first run had a good look around and found the tables weren't aligned
    i now have both in-feed and out-feed on the same plane
    but have now come across another problem
    if i set the blades to the high of the out-feed table the blades touch the underneath of the out-feed table
    wont rotate

    can anyone help with a super idiot guide on how to fix this save me pulling out ALL MY HAIR
    Thanks in advance

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    23,274

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Flashizell View Post
    Hi all
    so i lost my bottle
    Turns out the new motor will run the cutting head at 200rpm faster than as standard
    That's less than 10% of a difference - i'd say it wouldn't make any difference in terms of safety.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Albury
    Posts
    1,658

    Default

    Does that mean the outfeed table is too low, or high? (you don't make it clear whether the 'underneath' of the outfeed is the underneath of the top or the bottom.) Can you adjust it up (or down) until it clears the blades and then make a corresponding adjustment to the infeed table? Forget changing the motor unless you're contemplating a change to a spiral cutter head, 1-1/2hp should be sufficient for a 10" machine unless you're going to give it an absolute pizzling, in which case there will be plenty of other mechanical parts failing as well.
    Forum members PM me for a discount on all my products - https://www.ebay.com.au/str/aldavsstore

  15. #15
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    Jun 2010
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    Bundaberg
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    1,773

    Default

    There are two adjustments on the infeed and outfeed tables, the overall height is adjustable up and down and the tables themselves can be tilted to raise or lower the table ends.

    Here is a quick and dirty way to set them, but you need two identical straight, flat and parallel lengths of timber. A pair of 42 X 19 X 900 pine shorts from Bunnies will do providing that they are flat and straight.
    Firstly slacken off all the screws on the hinges so the tables can flop around and be lifted up and down too. Next, place a sheet of A4 paper on the plattern. Lay the two lengths of timber on top so they straddle both tables and then lower the cutter head until it clamps the timbers down onto the paper and the plattern. Raise the tables by the hinges until they touch the timbers evenly at the hinge end and a bit more firmly at the roller end. Then put a bit of wood through. If the snipe is still there the repeat the set up but with two sheets of paper; if that doesnít improve things then your cutter block is probably racking on the support pillars and there isnít much you can do about that.

    Rub in some parafin wax (or Silbergleit if you have it) on the plattern and tables to reduce friction then scrub the rollers with a metho soaked cloth to improve their grip.
    A thief stole my anti-depressants. I hope heís happy now.

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