Thread: Starting out: Second Hand Table Saw

I think you can use the fence off the saw it should just side across, nut sure how it goes with the off set faces??

Originally Posted by DSEL74

I think you can use the fence off the saw it should just side across, nut sure how it goes with the off set faces??

It would usually be the go, however the routers fence requires the cutout so it can be set 'over' the router bit. If that makes sense.

Also, thanks for the advice on the wax. I'll have to check that stuff out

Originally Posted by Mickle

It would usually be the go, however the routers fence requires the cutout so it can be set 'over' the router bit. If that makes sense.

You may be able to attach a timber face to the right hand side of the existing fence with sufficient thickness to accommodate the router bit.

Originally Posted by Sir Stinkalot

You may be able to attach a timber face to the right hand side of the existing fence with sufficient thickness to accommodate the router bit.

An excellent idea!
Upon measuring up the fence to implement this though, I found that the fence is not straight! It bows out away from the blade in the middle

Any Ideas on how to straighten the fence? I have thought of getting two blocks of straight 4x2 and clamping it up?

Only just saw this thread. Looks like a great pickup and you've cleaned it up well. You might find some hints for a router fence in this thread: https://www.woodworkforums.com/f20/ch...06/index2.html. At the bottom of page 1 and going onto page 2 Derek Cohen has photos of a router fence that he made to attach to his tablesaw fence, which sound like it might suit you. There are a few other examples in the thread and some useful links too (although it is an old thread and some of the links don't work anymore).

Regarding the Gumtree acquisition: Your table saw looks great, I can't see any real problems ahead.
Like most folks I frequently examine my handtools & tools hanging in the shed for signs of rust.
I have over the years found that there are two useful ways of offering protection:
1) Against short term rusting: use wet & dry paper, anything will do even if its worn, & rub away with phosphoric acid. This establishes a rust resistant iron-phosphate coating which is dull grey in colour. Best to paint on the acid & leave for maybe 10 minutes before using the wet & dry.
Obviously be careful, use safety goggles & preferably a rubber glove. The risks are not high but safety is common sense. Do not allow the acid to enter close fitting tool joints like pliers, the acid will bind the join. Then lightly oil with synthetic motor oil.
2) Against long term attack: spray on "Lanotec" which is a commercial liquid lanolin formulation, then just spread a light coat evenly with a paper towel. It dries almost tack free is easily cleaned off with turps & does a great job protecting surfaces such as handsaw blades.

In the particular case of the cast table top, the subject of the OP:
I would paint the table top with any quality metal protection paint, such paints offer a reasonably durable finish, can be easily re-applied, & generally do not suffer from being scraped off by the workpiece.

Good luck.

Hi, It is a great looking saw and you have it looking really smicko. First I am not a safety nut, I like common sense. I bought a second hand Delta saw of a similar style and got the fright of my life when soon after turning the saw off after making a cut there was an almighty crash, the blade had fallen sideways. I had wrongly thought that the bit of saw dust would not be hiding anything under the saw and if I cleaned it fully it would just end up the same in short order. I blew a bit of dust away and failed to notice that the trunion follower was not bronze as i expected but was nylon and the circlip that held it in place was missing due to chips out of the end of the groove that was supposed to retain the circlip. Chances are had the follower been bronze it would have stayed in place even with out the circlip but being nylon it had enough flex to to pop off. I have now fixed the problem but now only use it at 90 degrees. A few second earlier and it may have fallen against my hand. These days I am a lot more carefull to look at things properly and not glance in the general direction and assume them to be OK. Please check your saw trunion and follower!

Also as your saw does not have a riving knife make some ply wood zero clearence inserts and fit 1/8 masonites splitters on the back of the insert for ripping and think about a simple sled for cross cuts. Those two things make life a lot easier and safer.
All The best.