Thread: Help looking for Table Saw?

Hi Dodie;

I don't think you'll find a table saw in that price range that will cut whole sheets easily (i.e. without spend even more money building a sliding table or extra wide/long infeed and outfeed tables), you're normally looking at panel saw for that type of work.

I'd invest the money in a good quality circular saw (look for a wide cast alloy base plate, don't worry too much about the size of the blade for sheet goods you don't need a huge depth of cut), a good straight edge and a couple of clamps.

Cheers

Joel

Thanks for the reply Joel.

How difficult is it to make a clean straight cut with a circular saw? I assumed it wouldn't be too easy so I wrote it off from the start ( I know very little )

If the panels I cut were half the size I mentioned earlier would there be a table saw that would suit my needs?

Thank you
Damien

To cut large panels consistently a sliding table or panel saw would be ideal - but out of the price range. I would suggest the following for panels (which is what I use) and it would leave you enough to get a good table saw. The guide system is excellent and it makes cutting panels a very fast and easy operation.

TradeTools Direct - Serious Tools...Seriously Discounted!

That looks like an interesting setup.

However, if you already own a decent circular saw, the Carbatec ProGrip rails do a very good job.

I have 3 different sizes and they allow me to break down 2400x1200x19mm plywood panels very quickly.

There is a thread on these somewhere, Ill see if I can find it.

Here you go:

https://www.woodworkforums.com/f11/ex...p-rail-107316/

After breaking down the panels to (rough) size, I then do the final sizing and cutting on my TS10L tablesaw.

I use a jig consisting of a 2400 length of masonite about 300mm wide, with a 2500 straight length of 6mm x 100mm aluminium flat bar screwed to it. The saw has previously run on this jig with one edge of the base against the aluminium, cutting the masonite.

Sit this masonite edge along the line to be cut on the panel, clamp it down, run the saw along the aluminium length on the jig, and you have a very accurate cut along the length of the panel. I normally fully support the panel with four 70x 35 pine stud lenghts laid out on the ground to keep the panel off the ground, and both the workpiece and the offcut fully supported

For the shorter crosscut, I use the Progrip fence - quick and easy to use, also very accurate, but you have to align it along a cut line, don't rely on the grips getting a right angle cut.

I've just acquired a couple of ProGrip rails myself - the big (as in both long and wide) 2500mm and the 1250mm. I haven't used them yet, but I've tested the clamping stability and lateral rigidity and I'm certainly impressed. Just a heads-up on one point: I bought the "Universal Base", but found that it was quite seriously cupped. With the convexity downwards, there was no way it wouldn't rock and produce inaccurate results . Full marks to Carba-Tec for a hassle-free exchange for the larger UHMW saw base .

- Michael

If you're going to be cutting Melamine and laminates without a dedicated panel saw I would put an appropriate saw blade at the top of the shopping list.

Hollow-face or triple-chip blades are probably the best for double sided laminates as they produce very little breakout on both sides (with triple chip being cheaper for almost the same cut quality). A good blade will cost you about $150-200 but will be worth its weight in gold.

Leuco, Leitz and Dimar are all top class manufacturers and have a large range of blades so I'm sure you'll find something to fit your needs and budget.

It's not too hard with a good straight edge and a high quality circ saw. mearsure the distance from the edge of the saw's base plate to the outside of the blade (34 mm in my case), this won't change unless you change the blade.

Layout the cut line and clamp your straight edge the measured distance from the outside of the cut line, check it again, give it a final check and cut away.

It's a little slower but with care you can cut accurately with a circ, not as accurately as a table saw but good enough particularly if you're planing on added some trim to the viable edges.

Hi,

I bought a $2600 table saw and built a 1200 x 2400 outfeed table. But I still cut large panels on the floor with a 7 1/2 makita circular saw and a straight edge! It's not that easy without a sliding table to get a good straight cut of plywood or chipboard! So I usually rip down my sheets before getting them onto the table saw. Either a good quality saw blade or get yourself a router and flush trim bit and clean up the edge with that.

At the moment I have a jointed hardwood board that I use as a straight edge, planning on adding the Masonite addition so I don't have to calculate the base plate offset, just not got around to it. Yes I know the hardwood will probably move and no longer be a straight edge, but I do check it from time to time. The aluminium idea from Jill sounds good though.

Cheers
Jason

Thanks to all for your replies.
I went to carba tec and got myself a 50" pro grip, is it very important to use the saw base with this or could I get away with just sliding the base of the saw along the edge?
I've been to a few stores locally and can not find a decent quality blade, most are around $50-70, unless I overlooked them. Are there any online vendors or a store in the west side of Brisbane?

Many thanks
Damien

If you take it slow you should have no problems just sliding the saw along the rail.

I use mine without the saw base, works fine. In fact, I can't tell you whether the saw base would work betrer as I don't own one. I was going to get one, but when saw how well the rail worked without the saw (or router) base, I didn't bother to buy one.

I have used mine both with a 185mm Makita saw and a 235mm Triton saw.

Originally Posted by Dodie

I've been to a few stores locally and can not find a decent quality blade, most are around $50-70, unless I overlooked them. Are there any online vendors or a store in the west side of Brisbane?

You can try here: Machinery and Equipment Search Page - Machines4u.com.au for blades or your local saw sharpening service may stock blades or at least be able to put you through to someone. They will also be able to provide re-boring or shims to make the blade fit the spindle as well as advice on what to buy.

Elan

Originally Posted by Dodie

is it very important to use the saw base with this or could I get away with just sliding the base of the saw along the edge?

The thing about the saw base is that it follows the track from both sides. Sliding the saw along the base of the edge needs a fair bit of care; it's easy to drift away from the rail. If you push very hard against the rail to counteract the risk of drifting, you might be pushing your luck with the tightness of the clamping. In short, yes, it'll work, but I bought the base to minimise the risks and maximise the benefits.

- Michael