Thread: First table saw advice

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Hi Keano. I have an earlier version of the SB-12, with a 10" blade and it has done everything I have asked of it. One complaint is the hand wheels (both of mine are cracked) but the current version comes with different ones. Dust collection is also a bit hit and miss, still trying to improve it. I got mine 2nd hand and it was such a step up from a Triton

Hi Mountain Ash - thanks for the reply. I'm leaning more and more towards the SB12, it's in budget and an obvious step up from literally having no table saw.

If, which is unlikely, I did grow out of it in the next couple of years I'm sure I'd get at least half my initial outlay back selling it.

I own an older model 12" contractor saw, a forerunner to the SB12. If you can stretch the budget to something like this - https://www.carbatec.com.au/carbatec...93&SearchPos=1 - I don't think you would ever regret it. Contractor saws really are very basic and while they're a huge improvement on a Triton they can't compete with a cabinet saw. The Laguna saws, while they're a nice thing, are both a bit underwhelming in the power department for that kind of money.

Hi Keano,

I'm very interested to keep an eye on this thread and see what decision you make. I am in a very similar situation. I started looking at the job site type saws like the Dewalt and Bosch type, but these seemed a bit small and designed for a different purpose to my requirements, so I quickly moved on to "contractor" type saws like the Sherwood https://www.timbecon.com.au/sherwood...able-saw-2300w . I read some bad reviews on these and a few threads pointed me towards the Carbatec range of entry level cabinet saws https://www.carbatec.com.au/carbatec...e-complete-kit. So my budget went from about $800 to $1200 to $2000 very quickly. I can't justify spending any more than $2k for a DIY hobbyist like myself, however I also don't want to settle for something that will just frustrate me trying to get accurate cuts. My main item for concern is having a consistently accurate machine that fits in my budget and isn't over the top for my requirements.

Have you looked at the Sherwood or Carbatec saws?

I looked at the Hafco online and I'm not sold on the quality, however this is only based on picture - I haven't heard much from people who have owned and used them. Also concerned about how open they are, not lending themselves to dust control (not that I have any at the moment).

The Laguna range looks interesting and in budget, I hadn't seen them before this thread and I'll be interested to see peoples feedback on them.

Obviously I like the safety features on the Sawstop, but it's priced outside my range and it's very price for the "contractor" type saw.

Further research leads me to thinking that maybe a cheaper saw will be fine to start with and I can always upgrade to an aftermarket high quality saw fence if I'm finding accuracy is an issue. What are your thoughts on this?

Originally Posted by Keano

Hi Mountain Ash - thanks for the reply. I'm leaning more and more towards the SB12, it's in budget and an obvious step up from literally having no table saw.

If, which is unlikely, I did grow out of it in the next couple of years I'm sure I'd get at least half my initial outlay back selling it.

On paper the SB-12 looks like a lot of saw for the money but I found the lack of a quick release blade guard and inability to fit a riving knife to be a huge pain. Anytime you want to remove the rip fence and guard and use a cross cut sled you have to remove the blade and reach into the guts of the machine and loosen two nuts so the guard can be removed. This has to be done by feel and if you've got a big forearm it's a tight fit. That's bad enough but when you want to replace it you need to once again remove the blade, fit the guard totally by feel, replace the blade to ensure the guard is lined up with the blade, and if it's not again remove the blade to further adjust it. You have to line the guard up with the blade but the guard can't be fitted without removing the blade, which is a bit of a Catch-22. Even if you've done it before replacing the guard accurately enough can take fifteen or twenty minutes. If you swap between cross cuts and rips regularly this gets old quickly and you'll be tempted to leave the guard off entirely which is a recipe for disaster.

I'm with Aldav, having just upgraded from an SB-12 to the unit he has recommended almost entirely because of the issue detailed above, plus as a bonus you get a hugely improved fence, quieter operation, better dust collection and much nicer fit and finish.

i have the saw stop with the better fence system and its awesome. cut straight out of the box, easy to read instructions etc

others on here will mention it but theres a few smaller sized slider table saws that might be worth looking into.

also DONT FORGET TO BUDGET FOR DUST COLLECTION you're going to need it

Originally Posted by havabeer69

i have the saw stop with the better fence system and its awesome. cut straight out of the box, easy to read instructions etc

others on here will mention it but theres a few smaller sized slider table saws that might be worth looking into.

also DONT FORGET TO BUDGET FOR DUST COLLECTION you're going to need it

Thanks everyone for the input.

Re dust extraction - I currently have this machine W885 - HA-1000 Dust Collector | Hare & Forbes Machineryhouse

It runs great with my thicknesser which currently is my only large tool that uses extraction. I was planning to use it with whatever table saw i buy. Is it going to be up to doing a reasonable job?

it's a low volume "vacuum cleaner". For fine dust collection, you really want low pressure high volume.

Is it better than nothing? Of course. But will it protect your lungs from fine dust, no, not on it's own. Can you change the air in your shop more (better ventilation, fans) because that can significantly help.

PS there's a SawStop likely coming up on the forum sometime in the not too distant future (bernmc's) if that was your thinking... 2nd hand always helps the budget

Originally Posted by poundy

it's a low volume "vacuum cleaner". For fine dust collection, you really want low pressure high volume.

Is it better than nothing? Of course. But will it protect your lungs from fine dust, no, not on it's own. Can you change the air in your shop more (better ventilation, fans) because that can significantly help.

PS there's a SawStop likely coming up on the forum sometime in the not too distant future (bernmc's) if that was your thinking... 2nd hand always helps the budget

Could I get more info on the saw stop?

Originally Posted by Keano

Could I get more info on the saw stop?

This is the thread that bernmc snared his Hammer and mentioned the SS will likely come for sale. Hammer K3 You could search for his old threads and see if he talked about it - otherwise you should sit back, relax, and watch the for sale section

- - - Updated - - -

Originally Posted by Keano

Could I get more info on the saw stop?

This is the thread that bernmc snared his Hammer and mentioned the SS will likely come for sale. Hammer K3 You could search for his old threads and see if he talked about it - otherwise you should sit back, relax, and watch the for sale section

Hi guys

Still tossing up options - bernmc's saw was a little too far away to make it feasible to collect.

As I'm in a one car garage (no car stored there so I have the whole area as a workshop) space is very much at a premium

Does anyone have any experience of the fence on the Sawstop 30inch contractor saw? The jump to the 36inch isn't that much in $ but space wise the 30inch would suit so much better.

Originally Posted by Keano

Does anyone have any experience of the fence on the Sawstop 30inch contractor saw? The jump to the 36inch isn't that much in $ but space wise the 30inch would suit so much better.

The practical footprint difference between these two saws will be totally dwarfed by the need for infeed and outfeed distance and clearance.

In my opinion, if you're going to install a contractor or cabinet saw in a one car garage or similar space, you should look to arrange it so the longer distance of the space is in front and behind the saw - i.e. the saw is in the middle of the space, and you feed material in from the back of the garage and it exists out the front, unless you're specifically cutting only really small pieces of timber. For all practical purposes, you're going to need about 1m or more in front, and behind the saw, hence the positioning advice.

When you take this into consideration, the few inches difference between the two models becomes irrelevant, and I believe you should purchase whichever model you believe will serve you best.

Ok thanks makes sense.

My plan was to have it closer to one wall than the other and then just inside the roller door, giving enough space to feed through smaller pieces of timber. Then for larger pieces I can open the door, or wheel the unit forward as needed.