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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Darkest NSW
    Posts
    3,208

    Default Table saw alignment - revisited

    I have a JET JPS-10TS hybrid saw, which until recently I had been happily using mainly for ripping. Crosscutting was always a bit dodgy due to the crappy mitre gauge supplied with the saw (covered in another thread)......or so I thought

    I finally bought a decent Incra mitre gauge, which was a revelation. The Incra can be adjusted to have zero slop in the mitre slot, has totally repeatable angle positions, and doesn't move around at all when correctly set up. This was when I noticed that the back edge of the blade was catching the timber as I performed crosscuts, enough to mark the cut end slightly. This led to an 'excellent adventure' in completely realigning the blade and fence to the mitre slot....

    Lacking a dial gauge or other specialised tools, I built a block to secure my trusty digital vernier to the Incra mitre gauge (while still allowing the measurement slide to work). The saw was unplugged, and the shed door locked to prevent my enemies plugging it back in while I wasn't looking.....

    Checking a marked tooth on the blade at front and back positions revealed an error of just under 0.3mm !! No wonder I wasn't getting clean crosscuts. My measurement setup exhibited excellent repeatability, even after completely removing and reinstalling the mitre gauge in the slot.

    The trunnion bolts ARE a bit fiddly to get at on the JPS-10TS, but can be accessed by removing the dust port. I loosened all but one bolt, pivoting around that bolt to get the required alignment. A few gentle taps with the medium adjusting tool, tighten everything up again, suck blood off skinned knuckles, and the end result is shown on the attached photos. Error between front and back edges of blade now reduced to 0.02mm (about the limit of my measurement technique). The improvement in crosscutting was immediately noticeable - I use an Infinity combo blade, and it now gives glassy smooth end faces.

    I then used the same setup to align the fence to the mitre slot as well, in this case adjusting to have the fence kicked out from the back of the blade by 0.1mm (to prevent binding between blade and fence when ripping).

    Hopefully I won't need to do this again . The Infinity combo blade stays on the saw, so once I have carefully aligned the splitter to the blade that should be it for a while !

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    poland
    Age
    78
    Posts
    761

    Default

    Yeap, a tuned table saw gives a lot of pleasure....and accurate cuts...

    Another way to check the blade alignment to the miter slot is....
    By listening what the blade is "telling" you...I call this test "Dynamic test" and it includes all the Arbor run-out and blade run-out...
    https://www.woodworkforums.com/f44/table-alignment-short-fence-76604

    Regards
    niki

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Aus
    Posts
    35

    Default

    hey mate, i have the same problem however i cant find the trunnion bolts, i looked in the manual and i couldnt make heads or tails of WHERE they are actually located, any help appreciated

    sinners

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    10,828

    Default

    i cant find the trunnion bolts, i looked in the manual and i couldnt make heads or tails of WHERE they are actually located, any help appreciated
    They are located on the trunnion! At each end. Look for a Allen/hex head ...

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Darkest NSW
    Posts
    3,208

    Default

    I don't know about other saws, but on the JET JPS-10TS they are standard 12mm bolts (silver coloured heads). With the dust port cover removed, and using an extension bar on your socket set, its fairly easy to loosen the bolts nearest the dust port. At the far end, the left hand bolt (as you face the saw with one arm up the dust port...) is also easy to get at, so loosen that too. Leave the far end right hand bolt as a pivot (its very hard to get at anyway), then you should be able to tap the entire trunnion assembly in the desired direction. I did the adjustments by removing the zero clearance insert, then you can get at the trunnion assembly from the top of the saw. Use a piece of wood against the trunnion and tap gently with a hammer......

    It doesn't need much to move it, then carefully tighten up all the bolts again to avoid moving the trunnion out of alignment.

    For other saws......maybe post what machine you have and I'm sure someone on here will have adjusted one at some stage.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Aus
    Posts
    35

    Default

    i have the same as you. thanks i will get to it in the morning

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Meadow Springs, WA
    Age
    76
    Posts
    574

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by sinners View Post
    i have the same as you. thanks i will get to it in the morning
    thewoodwhisperer has a video on setting up tablesaws. Worth viewing.

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