Thread: Small Table saw as a base for incra fence and router on a extension wing.

Got a budget? The incra fence system alone is about a grand at least.

Most contractor saws will take an extension wing for a router table. If space is limited, you could always remove your left hand wing and just keep the router table in the right hand wing.

Hi blackjaffa
do you have a budget for your saw / router table combo?
For example,
would a Hammer B3 Basic (saw spindle molder combo) be out of your price range?


are you looking to add the Incra router table to the table saw you buy? If yes, are you looking at the left or right wing version of the table?
(both these options appear to require around 1.7 m of clear space to the right of the saw table)


is the SawStop safety feature important to you?


Not knowing what you would like to make, how important is Incra's 1/32" increment positive adjustment, compared to the alternative of a gentle knock

Budget in total would be for a router and table and table saw $3000au. I think the spindle moulder will be more than that plus I will probably want the unit stored against a wall and rolled out as needed. Space is 1m (800mm is ideal) depth and length of 2m.

Budget is $3000 but if I wait the budget increases approx $1000 pm. Are contractor saws any good? I have looked at the small bosch, makita etc that you see in a few tool shops, but the fence etc on them look rubbish. I think the triton would be slightly better, but i don't think it would instil me with confidence.

Originally Posted by blackjaffa

Budget in total would be for a router and table and table saw $3000au.
Space is 1m (800mm is ideal) depth and length of 2m.

Originally Posted by blackjaffa

Are contractor saws any good? I have looked at the small bosch, makita etc that you see in a few tool shops, but the fence etc on them look rubbish. I think the triton would be slightly better, but i don't think it would instil me with confidence.

OK

BobL. would advise spending around 1/3rd of your budget on dust extraction, and given that the Incra fence system is another grand, that leaves about $1000 for your saw.

I'm concerned that you may not have the space to accommodate the Incra fence. It would pay to be sure of this before going too far down the acquisition path.

A primary limitation of the small saws you see in tool shops is the ability to fit a dado stack. Many small saws don't have the power to drive a dado blade.
They also generally have smallish tables. If you are set on the Incra fence, the quality of the fence on the saw itself is not really relevant, as you will be replacing it with the Incra system
and if you fix the saw into a dedicated table, then you might get what you want for a not too outrageous outlay.

Originally Posted by ian

OK

BobL. would advise spending around 1/3rd of your budget on dust extraction, and given that the Incra fence system is another grand, that leaves about $1000 for your saw.

I'm concerned that you may not have the space to accommodate the Incra fence. It would pay to be sure of this before going too far down the acquisition path.

A primary limitation of the small saws you see in tool shops is the ability to fit a dado stack. Many small saws don't have the power to drive a dado blade.
They also generally have smallish tables. If you are set on the Incra fence, the quality of the fence on the saw itself is not really relevant, as you will be replacing it with the Incra system
and if you fix the saw into a dedicated table, then you might get what you want for a not too outrageous outlay.

Thanks. Its early days yet i am also thinking of possibly a jet 10 inch saw and adding a router on an extension wing. I happy to build over this year and get it right. So maybe buying the saw first then the router later or just waiting and buying it all in one. The jet 10 inch on a wheeled base is not too big.

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whilst a Jet 10" is not too big, what you have to consider is the space behind /beside the saw required for the Incra fence system's travel.

It will pay to check, but normally, fence systems like the Incra are not intended to be constantly installed and removed.

HI blackjaffa
I could be totally wrong on this .... but it does seem to me that putting a $1,000 fence on a portable saw and expecting to maximise the potential of the fence, and saw, is a very big ask.

The incra fences I have seen are on capable table/cabinet saws, and those saws have reasonable fences in the first place.

Rather that trying to make a $1,000 saw cut like a $2,000 saw by adding a $1,000 fence I would just go for the $2,000 saw as these type of saws (Laguna, Harvey, etc) are much sturdier, generally more powerful, and have quite acceptable fences to start with.

As for the router ... most TS will have a panel on the right that can accommodate a router, and you can make a ducted and adjustable fence system to attach to RHS the TS fence. You can then used the TS fence to position the attached router fence. Laminex covered thick particle board is often used for the router table top. Insets panels are very much available. Or see the Harvey router table attachment for TSs. An under the table enclosed and ducted case for the router is just about essential to keep dust down ... you would need this with the incra system anyway. The Triton TA1 router allows for above the table bit change (no need for lift with this Triton).

And just a final note ... the level of precision you can achieve with a TS is very much influenced by how well it is calibrated ... I know that my Harvey fence can be within 0.01mm from end end to end ... but for the furniture I make this level of accuracy is not essential (the wood often moves by more than that during a normal day anyway).

Bear in mind that a rip cut on a TS is not the finished surface, .... planing or sanding is required to have an acceptable finish ... and a routered edge on a furniture piece also need sanding/finishing. Even cross cuts using 100 tooth blade benefits from a turn on the shooting board. So why have I added this ... simply because an $1,000 incra fence will not , IMHO, give you any better finished outcomes than that readily achieved from a properly tuned TS.

Blackjafffa, good fortune with your projects .. and keep some of your budget back for blades, router (and bits) too., and a good sharpening equipment.

Regards

Rob

Originally Posted by Tahlee

HI blackjaffa
I could be totally wrong on this .... but it does seem to me that putting a $1,000 fence on a portable saw and expecting to maximise the potential of the fence, and saw, is a very big ask.

The incra fences I have seen are on capable table/cabinet saws, and those saws have reasonable fences in the first place.

Rather that trying to make a $1,000 saw cut like a $2,000 saw by adding a $1,000 fence I would just go for the $2,000 saw as these type of saws (Laguna, Harvey, etc) are much sturdier, generally more powerful, and have quite acceptable fences to start with.

As for the router ... most TS will have a panel on the right that can accommodate a router, and you can make a ducted and adjustable fence system to attach to RHS the TS fence. You can then used the TS fence to position the attached router fence. Laminex covered thick particle board is often used for the router table top. Insets panels are very much available. Or see the Harvey router table attachment for TSs. An under the table enclosed and ducted case for the router is just about essential to keep dust down ... you would need this with the incra system anyway. The Triton TA1 router allows for above the table bit change (no need for lift with this Triton).

And just a final note ... the level of precision you can achieve with a TS is very much influenced by how well it is calibrated ... I know that my Harvey fence can be within 0.01mm from end end to end ... but for the furniture I make this level of accuracy is not essential (the wood often moves by more than that during a normal day anyway).

Bear in mind that a rip cut on a TS is not the finished surface, .... planing or sanding is required to have an acceptable finish ... and a routered edge on a furniture piece also need sanding/finishing. Even cross cuts using 100 tooth blade benefits from a turn on the shooting board. So why have I added this ... simply because an $1,000 incra fence will not , IMHO, give you any better finished outcomes than that readily achieved from a properly tuned TS.

Blackjafffa, good fortune with your projects .. and keep some of your budget back for blades, router (and bits) too., and a good sharpening equipment.

Regards

Rob

Thanks for the input. I like the look of the jet 10 inch saw i think its about the right size. I have emailed a company selling those about adding an extension wing. Triton router seems the way to go so that's my budget. As someone else suggested dust extraction i think is a must unless i do what i normally do and drag it out on the lawn 😀

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Here is the Harvey Router table ... solid cast iron.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lYuJA5JEwNo

Cost ... about $600 from BBT in Sydney. But you can always made the table and bolt it in ... quite simple really.

I dont know if you have seen the comparisons between circa $2K TS on this Forum ... look in product reviews for the Harvey saw ... 3 hp (needs 15 amp plug), 3 belt drive, trunion mounted to cabinet (caninet saw) and basically the same as the Grizzly and Laguna Platinum.

Regards

Rob

As Rob mentioned, site the router table in an extension wing ...



.. and then attach a router table fence to the tablesaw fence. Use the tablesaw fence to adjust it ...



I have had this set up for 20 years. If you can, get a sliding table as well. This will replace a SCMS.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Originally Posted by derekcohen

As Rob mentioned, site the router table in an extension wing ...



.. and then attach a router table fence to the tablesaw fence. Use the tablesaw fence to adjust it ...



I have had this set up for 20 years. If you can, get a sliding table as well. This will replace a SCMS.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Whsts an scms?

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Sliding Compound Mitre Saw

Originally Posted by Lappa

Sliding Compound Mitre Saw

Aha i have a bosch one.

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