Thread: Table Saw Blade Will Not Come Off

I know this doesn’t answer your question, but is it possible that the arbor is 16mm and the blade 5/8”? That would account for it being tight.

I don't know where the idea of shaking comes from. I would use wooden mallet and systematic rotate the blade by about 90º and belt the blade on the side. You might ruin the blade but at this stage it sounds like you need to get it off.

I would be heating the blade only with a hot air gun,
Not the arbour.
The idea is to expand the blade just enough by heating it too loose it’s grip on the arbour.

So I would heat the blade turn by hand 30/40 degrees heat, an as Bob said tap with a non metallic hammer at the same time.

Cheers Matt.

The blade not coming off could be from a few reasons.
Have you checked the blade for runnout?
Is the blade a reasonable quality with expansion slots in the blade to dissipate heat.
Sometimes the course thread can catch on the hole in the blade
Maybe some penetrative fluid might help also

+1 for the tape, rotate 90 and tap again.

Well, round 2 starts later today. I will try each of your ideas and will report on my success.
Again, thanks for your ideas and your time for answering my thread.

Originally Posted by havabeer69

+1 for the tape, rotate 90 and tap again.

+2, can you use a piece of wood and tap both sides to try and loosen.
You probably wont be putting that blade back on so go for it.

..... also mark the blade to identify it clearly so that you do not install it again on that arbor. once you get it off that is.

My money is on mismatched arbor - blade arbor hole sizing, (or the 5/8" to 16mm sizing) either through poor QC on one or both of those parts. Or the coating on the saw blade has carried over into the arbor hole during manufacturing. At that price point in the market I think QC is optional.

Interesting that it is no longer listed on WEN's website. Why?????

Thank you EVERYONE!!
I got the blade off by pretty much using all the ideas everyone was so kind to send me. I heated the blade, tapped it with a wooden mallet and put a lot of fluid and grease on it. The blade was purchased from a very respectable supply store I’m sure we have all purchased from. I measured the arbor on the blade and it was correct for my arbor.
Anyway, it was great to see the the amount of responses I received and I would like to thank each and every one of you. Hopefully one day I will have the opportunity to help someone.👍

Originally Posted by Art D

Thank you EVERYONE!!
The blade was purchased from a very respectable supply store I’m sure we have all purchased from. I measured the arbor on the blade and it was correct for my arbor.

Great to hear you had success. Not likely that many of us Aussies have purchased from your US "very respectable supply store".

Thanks anyway!

Originally Posted by Art D

Thanks anyway!

I would advise to take off the blade collars and inspect them very carefully, if the blade has spun on its own inside the collars, it can “weld” itself onto the collars and produce a small burr Which can protrude and throw the blade out of alignment and make it wobble. Rubbing the face of the collars on a diamond stone or a flat whetstone will clean them up. I’ve seen this happen many times to saws.

Originally Posted by riverbuilder

I would advise to take off the blade collars and inspect them very carefully, if the blade has spun on its own inside the collars, it can “weld” itself onto the collars and produce a small burr Which can protrude and throw the blade out of alignment and make it wobble. Rubbing the face of the collars on a diamond stone or a flat whetstone will clean them up.

A blade spinning on the collars can also mark the arbor. A bit of fine emery paper applied to the spinning arbor can clean up any small marks. If the blade hasn't been wrecked by the removal a clean up of the centre hole would also be advisable before fitting it again.