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Thread: Best table saw blades
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29th August 2017, 08:25 AM #31Taking a break
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29th August 2017 08:25 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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29th August 2017, 10:48 AM #32Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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29th August 2017, 10:50 AM #33GOLD MEMBER
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A bit off topic but here goes, the subject of blade speed is not one that most of us can pursue as most saws are single phase but what are the advantages of being able to vary the blade speed. Do commercial operators use blade speed as part of their cutting regime for different materials?
CHRIS
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29th August 2017, 10:56 AM #34GOLD MEMBER
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29th August 2017, 12:01 PM #35Woodworker
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Derek, if you don't mind I'd love to know what you pay for it. I think I might be lining up for one too at some point!
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29th August 2017, 12:50 PM #36SENIOR MEMBER
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If you cut slow and mostly cut softwood say pine and always use new timber, ie, no nail/metal object, then your saw blade will last longer.
It actually doesnt matter which blade you use if you are in the same price bracket say $200NZD-$300NZD for a blade, but you must select the right profile of bladeSCM L'Invincibile si X, SCM L'Invincibile S7, SCM TI 145EP, SCM Sandya Win 630, Masterwood OMB1V, Meber 600, Delta RJ42, Nederman S750, Chicago Pneumatics CPRS10500, Ceccato CDX12
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29th August 2017, 01:03 PM #37Woodworker
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Hi Albert:
When you say "It actually doesn't matter which blade you use if you are in the same price bracket", I assume you mean it doesn't matter which brand you use? If so, I agree. I cannot tell the difference between Felder's Silent Power, and the blades I have from Leitz. I've also heard the rumour that Leitz make Felder's blades. Hence, the decision on marquees may well come down to other factors; like how well you like the local rep, price, etc.Warm Regards, Luckyduck
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29th August 2017, 02:15 PM #38SENIOR MEMBER
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Hey LuckyDuck
Yes that is what I meant, it all comes down to availability locally...
If you still cant decide, then you can do what I do. choose by the colour of the machine/product/packaging.
Its like the machinery manufacturer:
Griggio makes Martin thicknesser/planer, ACM makes Felder Bandsaw, Centauro makes SCM bandsaw, ACM and Centauro are both Italian, pretty sure they would out source their components to their subbies and all that.SCM L'Invincibile si X, SCM L'Invincibile S7, SCM TI 145EP, SCM Sandya Win 630, Masterwood OMB1V, Meber 600, Delta RJ42, Nederman S750, Chicago Pneumatics CPRS10500, Ceccato CDX12
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29th August 2017, 05:06 PM #39
Lucky, I contacted Felder WA to enquire what they offer against the Leuco rip and crosscut I linked to earlier. This was their reply ..
We do keep a range of the more common blades in stock, and can only refer to Felder Silent power or STARK being the two brands we keep locally.
Feel free to review specs at Saw Blades
Stark 300x30x96z - $171.90
Stark 300x30x48z (Combination blade) - $186.00
Silent Power Silver D=315mm, Z28 – $103.50
Silent Power Rip saw blade D=315m, Z14 - $89.64
Prices excl Gst
Can anyone comment on the Felder blades?
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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29th August 2017, 10:01 PM #40SENIOR MEMBER
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Surprised no one has mentioned local made blades. I have a few optico blades, including a couple with custom grinds. They seem decent and can be sharpened/repaired/reground.
I got a couple of the silentpower (or whatever the felder/hammer brand is) chucked in when I got my saw and they seem pretty decent. They have decent inserts that look like they can be sharpened a few times, which to me is important if I am paying good coin for a blade. No point paying a few hundred for a single use blade or blade that can only be sharpened once.
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30th August 2017, 03:39 PM #41Novice
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Thank you very much for this. Saved me a lot of research and probably lots of $$ in expensive mistakes
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30th August 2017, 05:01 PM #42SENIOR MEMBER
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Hi ejw,
Welcome to the forum, I would take what has been said above with a grain of salt. Not sure how much woodworking you've done or plan on doing, but the saw that Derek has just acquired is not type of saw an average DIYer will have in their shed. What I mean by this is just because you have the "best" blade in your hands will mean that its the best blade for your personal needs.
Eg spending a few hundred on a blade just because it can be sharpened more times than say a high end "DIY" blade will mean nothing if you either don't know how to look after the blade, cut the wrong materials, have a weak saw, or don't ever plan on getting it sharpened.
The best advice anyone can give you is to buy a blade that reflects your circumstances and what you plan on cutting/making.
Some things to consider:
Budget: Good blades are pricey, but at the same time cheap blades have their place and especially for a DIYer can potentially outlast the saw.
Type of materials cut: solid wood has different properties to engineered wood products
Work habits/ease of blade changes: If you're lazy or its too cumbersome to change blades, it'll never happen rather spend money on a good combination blade
Saw power: Industrial blades are generally full kerf, you'll bog down a weak saw with full kerf blades
Other factors such as availability also play a role as stated above
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20th September 2017, 06:39 PM #43
I could be comparing apples with oranges. The Leitz blade is a 250mm triple chip blade and the CMT triple chip blade is a 300mm blade. The Leitz blade does cut better in Melamine flake board than the same setup with the CMT blade.
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18th February 2020, 09:19 PM #44Senior Member
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In my search for new blades for my K3 I found this old thread and the links above. I am just trying to work out why the large price difference between the 2 blades, what advantage would the more expensive blade give me? The cheaper one I think would fit straight on, although it doesn't state what grind it is. The more expensive one lacks the correct holes for the braking dowels, it is listed as an ATB grind but I would prefer a combination blade. I am seeing this price difference a bit with similarly specced blades from the same supplier with one being a "premium" blade and am curious what that means. Better cut quality? longer life? less flex? all of the above? anyone got any ideas.
Cheers Andrew
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18th February 2020, 09:29 PM #45Taking a break
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They're both ATB.
As to what extras you get for more money...no idea. Possibly a better grade of carbide, better vibration damping and noise reduction, but you'd need to contact them directly for a definite answer.
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