Thread: Table saw burning wood

That looks like cross cut blade to me. I'd be going for something with 24 or less teeth for ripping.

That blade appears to be coated with resin ... that will heat the blade for sure.

The gullet in the blade is not great for any ripping BUT if you raise the balde so that the full gullet is showing above the timber being cut you willfind it gives a cooler cut.

My recommendation would be to get a CMT ripping blade for ripping.
The fence moving out at the far end by 1/64th is not a problem and will induce the blade not to stick.

The other thing to check is the riving knife ... is it square to the blade

Good luck

Rob

Like others have said.
•Replace the blade with a rip blade.
•Check the riving knife with your indicator.
Maybe worth buying a feather board to ensure the timber is hard up against the fence. When ripping.

Cheers

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Also check that the riving knife is the same thickness as the saw kerf, if is thinner, then the timber will bind the blade

The wrong blade for ripping. After all the heat chances are the blade is nackered also. Likely blunt and perhaps now warped by the heat. If I had smoke coming from the wood I don't think I would trust the blade any more. A rip blade and a combination blade will do most of your woodworking. A combination blade crosscuts and will do light ripping jobs so is the most used blade for me. For thick ripping and really hard woods like blackbutt a dedicated rip blade (24 tooth for a 10'' blade). The whole setup will also need to be checked. Blade aligned with the table slots. Then fence aligned with blade and the riving knife as mentioned. It's also good practice when ripping that the fence is short only extending as far as just past the front teeth. That way the wood can not be pinched between blade and fence. I see that model saw has an auxiliary fence so may as well use it when ripping. Last thing I can think of is with a new blade on does the blade spin true without any wobble. If there is any then check where the blade seats and the washer is clean of any gunk and lastly does the arbor spin true.
Regards
John

Thanks everyone for the suggestions, it sounds like the consensus is get a new blade with fewer teeth Also re-check alignment of all parts which I'll do. I have aligned everything - the blade, riving knife and fence, but I'll do it again in case something went out of alignment due to heat or force.

The blade I'm currently using is a combination blade, one which came with the saw. To be fair, what prompted this post was me trying to rip 65mm thick hardwood yesterday (not sure of the kind, but looks like Blackbutt as well), and when I was previously having problems with Blackbutt those were also 45-50mm thick boards. So perhaps a proper ripping blade will help here.

To reply to some other comments - I have checked the riving knife and it's perfectly in line with the blade, also there's no wobble in the blade, when I turn the saw on there's just a clean line as the blade spins and a swish sound from rotation.

I've ordered a CMT 24-tooth ripping blade so hopefully that helps.


Cheers,
Ivan

I've received the blade today and re-aligned everything. If I knew what difference it would made I'd have done it 6 months ago. And change the blade every month [emoji4]

My 65mm hardwood now went through like butter, and the finish is smoother than it's ever been, even with the new 40t combination blade I got with the saw.

Last time I had to stop mid-way ripping the board because there was too much smoke. Today I finished the cut - attaching the photo of the difference.

A related question - some of you mentioned you clean the blade after every use. How? I've only cleaned it so far by taking it out, soaking in soapy water and then cleaning with brass brush. But that's a long process.

Thanks everyone for the help!



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Don't know if it will work with a circular but when chainsaw chains gets gummed up with resin I squirt diesel onto the chain, wait for a ~30 minutes and then cut some dry hard wood and the resin comes off in the cut. Might have to repeat it a couple of times.

If you have some sawdust in the TS cabinet it should soak up any drops of diesel.

Oven cleaner does a good job. Brush on, hose off.

I'd query the "after every use" part. That seems a little excessive. I only clean when I note that the blade is getting build up on the teeth. Also, after a while you'll figure out which timbers are more prone to cause issues.

As for what to use, I got a bottle of Simple Green concentrate from Bunnings (https://www.bunnings.com.au/simple-g...eaner_p4470509), and a spray bottle. I just spray on, leave for five or so minutes, and give it a light going over with a tooth brush. Others have good results with just hot soapy water.

Lance

Another for Simple Green, easy to use and does an excellent job. I soak the blade for about 10 minutes using a pot plant saucer, you can reuse the product quite a few times.

Simple Green great for cleaning bicycle chains too!

If you are going to take the blade off, used coffee grounds soaked in water work as well as anything.
I tried it on chainsaw chain and it works - to get rid of it I just tipped the water and grounds out on th lawn
Apparently the residual caffeine dissolves the resin.

With simple green, do you dilute it according to instructions or use it concentrated?

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