Thread: New table saw on it's way... how to protect the surface?

Originally Posted by DerekC

I leave the silver glide a good hour (ie dry) before I buff it off and haven’t had any issues unless there is free water on the surface

AN HOUR?
I think I found the problem... First time I did it, I pretty much wiped it on then off.
Today I let it sit for maybe 5 minutes.

I might have to give it another coat tomorrow and leave it for a while longer.

@DerekC - I see you're in Brisbane too. Do you use Silver Glide on any other tools/equipment?
I gave my sliding mitre saw rails a wipe over with it on the weekend. I think I'll give the rails a sand with 800+WD40 and coat them with the SG.

Originally Posted by Kaiser42

After covering the table saw loosely with a cotton sheet on Sunday, kind of tented using the blade guard, my worst nightmare came true this morning.

I went to check on my baby and found this
Attachment 518449
I'm hoping it's just me and I didn't apply the silver glide properly.
I've covered it in WD-40 until this afternoon when I can get out there, re-sand it (800grit w&d) and coat it again.

I was thinking, would a tarp be better?
It's condensation on the cold table surface, so I'm not sure how I'm going to stop that.

I gave up on pristine as new cast iron surfaces years ago.

Go for something like Scotch Brite before going to sandpaper.

My saw bench is 22 years old. It gets used regularly as a saw bench and often as a convenient glue up bench. The top gets a once over with the belt sander with a 120# belt. Actually it does the surface a lot of good and there is no sign of it becoming "a bowl". I we go away for a period i will put on a coat of silbergliet. I only buy small tins because the heat up here will bring the wax to the top and requires re mixing. i think it is fair to say I do some fairly fine work and I am not too worried about the machine being in pristine condition, only excellent working order/

Jim

I think much of it comes back to the quality of the "cast iron" !

I use the "Scotchbrite" hook & loop pads or the quick-change pads on an arbor in a cordless drill to tidy up the cast iron surfaces on my machines here in Townsville. Then the SilverGlide.

Originally Posted by powderpost

I only buy small tins because the heat up here will bring the wax to the top and requires re mixing.
Jim

Yep - I keep mine stored inside in a cabinet in a cool room with all my epoxy resin and cactus juice, glues and finishes etc for exactly the same reason. My shed is not insulated or cooled, and it can get up well over 40 degrees in there regularly during the summer months. I learned the hard way not to store anything in the shed in summer.