Thread: table saws

can someone plese explain the meanings of left tilt, right tilt, abour ?

When you look at the saw from the front the blade will either tilt left or right, not both.

the arbour is what the saw blade is attached to.

O.K. I'll have a go.

Essentially, it means which side of the saw the motor is mounted on.

So A TSC-10HB has it's motor mounted on the right side of the saw, this means that when you tilt the blade it tilts to the right which is towards the fence. Because TS Fences are always on the right of the blade.

A left tilt arbor obviously tilts the other way and away from the fence. This is actually safer because it means that when you are doing a bevel cut, the stock can't get trapped between the blade and the fence and kick back at you.

This is the theory as I understand it.

In reality, I don't think it makes a whole lot of difference.

#1-What the Major said x 2,
#2 I reckon the boys have described L/R tilt & arbour adequately enough for young apes

Originally Posted by Zed

can someone plese explain the meanings of left tilt, right tilt, abour ?

There are 2 considerations with arbor size. The diameter and the length. The diameter matches the whole in the blade (obviously) which is marked on the blade as the bore. usually the bore is 16mm in the saws we use for weekend work like in the TSC10-HB or my Leda 12HK. You can get 30mm bore blades with reducing washers in them to make them 16mm. etc.

Dado blades need the arbor to be long enough to hold all the blades and then have enough thread left to safely screw the nut back on to hold them on. Dados, like other blades come in a variety of bore sizes. 16, 30, 35 etc.

There was a thread a while ago about dados and the TSC-10HB. I think the arbor LENGTH was around 30 - 32mm and the diam (or bore) is 16mm (see photo). That is fine for most dado blades. Usually, the timber would be 19mm so that's about the widest dado cut you'll need most of the time. So if the dado blades are taking up 19mm (approx) of the available arbor, there's still enough thread sticking out to put on the flange plate and the nut. If you need your dados any wider, you can always take 2 passes.

Make sure that whatever saw you get, will take those dado blades.

(sorry about the typo on the photo but it just wouldn't be me without one. At least you know it's a genuine 'Gumbied' photo )

Gumby
I wouldn't want to try ripping thin timber on your saw, it'd fall down that big hole. :eek: Talk about an infinite clearance.

My dado set is hirstute

Don't buy a TSC10HB, Zed.









(Reverse psychology)

Listen to SilentC, Zed.

[QUOTE=rodm]

Originally Posted by Simomatra

What is the problem with using dado blades on the MBS300?

The arbor on the MBS300 is not long enough to take a dado blade but other than that it is an excellent saw.

Rod as the owner of a MBS300 I would have to agree that the arbor supplied is too short but they now can supply another arbor to support the dado blades

Zed I am only a new comer to all this woodwork but I purchased the my saw some months ago and have been suitable impressed since. I have the sliding table attachment as well. Originally looked at all sorts but am very happy with my choice. Price was ok as well. Purchased through Gregory machinery in Brisbane available else where by the woodman group.

Buy the best you can afford you won't be dissapointed

Cheers Sam

My heart is set on a Jet Supersaw....

Any one using one?

Like this one....

THIS is on Ebay now. Might even pick it up cheap
(as long as pigs can fly)

and if you really want the Rolls Royce of saws there is also an Altendorf on Ebay too.

Originally Posted by bennylaird

Like this one....

That looks new benny. Where did you see that?