Thread: Table saws & timber

It appears I overlooked the sliding table topic as a newcomer posting. Personally I would like a cabinet saw with a power feed unit attached who wouldnt? I worked in a factory that went out of business with both cabinet saws & computerized panel saws. Obviously these might be out of most persons budjets. I'll need to find the ad in my magazine box..There is however a long metal & wood saw horse like devise that uses cam operated clamps to hold your wood up to a full sheet of plywood & a special guide fitted to a handheld circular saw base to make straight or even angled cuts accurately without the use of a table saw or sliding jig. This same jig ect can be used with a router for jointing the edge of a board with a router having higher rpm = smoother jointed edge. Maybe my info will help someone somewhere after all I spent some time typing it lol. Basically I cannot choose a saw or accessory for you or anyone a lot of it is personal preference after researching & sorting out garbage produced by some companies. I do have many thoughts & opinions on table saws. 1st will it be thrown in a truck? 2nd if not I would look the accessories that can be used with it. 3. Small thin aluminum table tops with mini miter slots can be limiting depending what you expect from the machine. I prefer a cast iron top with solid extension wings VS rectangle holes on extension wings & a standard / universal miter slot dimension maybe a t slot depending on available accessories to be used on the machine. 4. belt driven VS heavy duty circular saw brush type motor mounted upside down. Crawl underneath the saw display unplugged & look. Mine is an older & larger heavy duty direct drive motor some others are not. Basically both can do "most of the work" just fine if you understand the machines limitations & capacities & dont exeed them constantly during use provided its a reasonable quality machine to begin with. Being realistic not everyone can afford a $1500.00 professional cabinet saw requiring a forklift to move. There are some online reviews & magazine issues I have seen comparing models upsides/downsides of several machines. I'll have to do a search for them if you like. Fence quality, adjusting knobs might be wiggly or cheap & the red blade insert can be annoying when looking for a saw, some inserts are too thin & are not flush / flat with the tables surface. Some fences on displays may slip even though they are "locked" in place. I'm sure some displays are not set up & fine tuned properly either. I have an older delta cast iron top saw with its origional brushes it has a heavy duty 15 amp direct drive motor & it works great. Some table saws I dont know which models ect may have poor bearings affecting the cutting performence a little. One motor type is just a bit noisier depending on saw blades & wood type being cut ect & capacitor motor in my opinion might be quieter when listening to each motor side by side spinning alone without cutting any wood at all & might be easier to replace / remove & have repaired if needed. I wear good quality hearing protectors over my ears & personally dont worry about the noise level lol. Motor brushes are might be less expensive & easier to replace than a capacitor though. There is cog tooth belt on my model similiar to a cars timing belt I've never had to replace it yet or the brushes in 15yrs & I use my saw a lot with oak & other woods in general.
I hope this helps. Happy saw hunting there are a few nice quality budget minded saws out there.
Ah yes...The factory blade that comes with the saw might be good enough for some general all purpose cutting again this is personal preference. You can always make a workshop wall clock with it. lol