Thread: Tablesaw technique - ripping long timber at 45 °

I got the rip saw blade and when I was putting it in, I noticed a bit of side play in the arbor. Hoisted the say up onto the bench (love the overhead hoist) and stripped it down - make that a LOT of side play, over 0.5mm.
I replaced the bearings when I got this saw about 12 months ago and it hasn't seen a lot of use so either I did a rubbish job of replacing them (possible) or I used cheap, crappy bearings (more than possbile). I ordered a new set of Naichi 6203ZZE which I should have this week. This time, I'll make a proper tool to insert the new bearings instead of relying on the Triton Superjaws as a press..

Check the play when you lay ot over to 45° as well. The weight of rhe motor and blade (depending how it is all mounted) may make it sag at the far end as you feed the wood. This could make a saw that was running true to the fence now jamb as the gap closes at the back of the blade.

Waiting to hear how things go with mew bearings and blade

Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art

My new bearings arrived the other day and I was going to put them in myself when I remembered an engineering place that I pass on my daily walk, Dropped in to ask if he could do them and he did them on the spot, no charge either - he was waiting for a parts delivery so had nothing else to do. Much better job than I could have done too. Arbor is back in the saw and there's absolutely no play or noise at all. I'll try to get the saw back together tomorrow.
Apart from the biggest mill I've every seen, has a couple of steps onto a raised platform to operate, he also had this drill press. He fired it up and gave me a demo. Glad to see not all old cast iron is scrapped. Sorry for the photo quality.

Hi snowyskiesau,
This is what I made a few years ago. With The feather board, splitter and the jig it helps to keep the timber against the fence and the jig stops the kick back it is the best thing I ever built for a table saw. As you can see in one of the pictures the jig has two strong magnets to hold it on the table and so you will see another picture showing a piece of timber added to the bottom of the jig, that is for holding any thin pieces of timber to be cut on the table saw. The magnets are from a computer hard drive but you could use any strong magnets. I haven't had any kick backs yet. To have a kick back the blade will have to throw timber and jig back at me. When the jig is holding the timber against the fence you cannot pull timber back towards you can only go forwards with the jig.For you to it back you have to releasing the presser. I can do 45 and any angles with this jig. With this jig I hardly use my safety guard. If you need a pattern of the top of the jig just send a PM. Hope this helps.

Graham.
A feather board & Jig for Table Saw 1.jpgA feather board & Jig for Table Saw 3.jpgJig for holding timber against the fence on table saw 1.jpgJig for holding timber against the fence on table saw 2.jpg

Originally Posted by snowyskiesau

My new bearings arrived the other day and I was going to put them in myself when I remembered an engineering place that I pass on my daily walk, Dropped in to ask if he could do them and he did them on the spot, no charge either - he was waiting for a parts delivery so had nothing else to do. Much better job than I could have done too. Arbor is back in the saw and there's absolutely no play or noise at all. I'll try to get the saw back together tomorrow.
Apart from the biggest mill I've every seen, has a couple of steps onto a raised platform to operate, he also had this drill press. He fired it up and gave me a demo. Glad to see not all old cast iron is scrapped. Sorry for the photo quality.

sounds like the start of a friendship that should be cultivated

Got the saw back together, arbor runs smooth and quiet but the adjustment for raise and tilt are very tight. I've had it apart half a dozen times this morning but can't improve things. Well lubricated, nothing is bind (that I can see), trunnions seem square and front and back mounts are parallel. As I'm not going to be continuously adjusting it, I might just leave it as is.

Now .... the first cut

Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art

Well getting the blade to be parallel with the mitre slot is the next exiting challenge. I can't move the mechanism that holds the blade, trunnions etc, far enough to one side to align it. The tilt adjustment mounting stops that happening. This mount is in the steel box that the tabletop sits on so I'm going to have to file out the mounting hols in it, to get any extra movement.
Right now I've just ahd too much of all the stuffing about to care. It can sit there and rust for all I care.

Do you have some pics

Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art

Could have taken the chamfer off in 5 mins with a hand plane!
FWIW, riving knives are no longer mandatory on circular saws in Europe.
Neither the Bosch or Mafell track saws have them any more.

Originally Posted by Matador

A feather board & Jig for Table Saw 1.jpg

This doodad looks exceedingly clever.

The curve is interesting as if the wood should move back it will only lock it harder (like a chinese finger trap).... I don't think the drive magnets would hold, even though they are strong, for a kickback unleashes ferocious forces. Some of the really big twist-down style magnets might work though, their holding power is amazing. Magswitch Magnetic Jigs | Rockler Woodworking and Hardware takes 45kg of force to tear one of these beasts away.

I like the simplicity of this device, its auto-locking capacity and the fact its readily movable on the saw. The way the little feet extend down is clever too.

Its very cool in I can still use the Grrippers, which I use without fail.

Now to get my 45° rips right.....