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  1. #46
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
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    Default One Job Finished, On To Another.

    I purchased some 80 grit cloth backed abrasive from Abrasiflex and glued it onto the disc. Works as well as I will ever need it to.

    IMG_20200912_105743613 (Large).jpg

    That out of the way I tackled something a bit simpler. The lower sheetmetal saw guard was attached with two mismatched 1/4" BSW wingnuts that were fiddly and somewhat awkward to use so I made a pair of easier to use knurled nuts from brass and 'blackened' them with Birchwood Casey's 'Brass Black' to match the machine's other fixings. I had contemplated turning a gentle radius on the face of the nuts but opted for a quick and easy 5 degree taper.

    IMG_20200912_154104158 (Large).jpg IMG_20200912_133951487 (Large).jpg IMG_20200912_133957911 (Large).jpg IMG_20200912_134736582 (Large).jpg IMG_20200912_154034636 (Large).jpg IMG_20200912_154043270 (Large).jpg

    IMG_20200912_154226588 (Large).jpg IMG_20200912_163502639 (Large).jpg

    Bob.

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  3. #47
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
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    27,757

    Default

    Looks good bob - I love "crisp" knurling.

  4. #48
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    Nov 2008
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    .... I love "crisp" knurling.
    Me too.

  5. #49
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Macksville
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    62
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    390

    Default

    Shouldn't you have made FOUR of those nuts.

  6. #50
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    Dandenong Ranges
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    1,866

    Default

    That knurling is gnarly.

  7. #51
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Mountain Ash View Post
    That knurling is gnarly.
    I have no idea whether that is negative or positive criticism.

    The knurling on the nuts would probably be acceptable to metalworkers familiar with knurling. Woodworkers may well have a different opinion.

  8. #52
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Sydney
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    1,166

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Anorak Bob View Post
    I have no idea whether that is negative or positive criticism.

    The knurling on the nuts would probably be acceptable to metalworkers familiar with knurling. Woodworkers may well have a different opinion.
    I didn't post it, but gnarly is positive for sure, no question in my mind it was a compliment. You've done a very comprehensive job on them (and everything about this resto!)

  9. #53
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    Feb 2006
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    Perth
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    27,757

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Anorak Bob View Post
    I have no idea whether that is negative or positive criticism.
    I believe it's a positive "surfy dude" term. It goes back a while but I doubt that was your scene Bob.

  10. #54
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
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    Perth WA
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    5,650

    Default The Jointer Guard

    The pivot pin in the guard was deformed and wobbled. On removal, there was a cross drilled hole in the pin and a steel plug embedded in the cast aluminium. Hard to imagine that the original pin might have snapped off in the casting and it's also puzzling that the pin fitted was so badly misshapen.

    IMG_20200913_155933632 (Large).jpg IMG_20200913_155950900 (Large).jpg IMG_20200913_160011271 (Large).jpg IMG_20200913_160302637 (Large).jpg

    The hole for the 3/8" diameter pin was no longer round so I chose to increase its diameter to 11.5mm, the tapping drill diameter for a 1/2" x 20 UNF thread, the fine thread having a reasonable amount of thread engagement compared to say a 1/2 x 12 BSW thread.

    The replacement pin is a piece of 1020 bar. I had to finish the thread to size with a button die because I couldn't screw the guard onto the threaded pin while mounted on the lathe. The button die is in the chuck and the pin in the tailstock chuck only to provide alignment at the commencement of the thread. I used a diestock and my bench vice for the final fitting.

    IMG_20200913_162528982 (Large).jpg IMG_20200913_163910663 (Large).jpg IMG_20200914_120002878 (Large).jpg IMG_20200914_120550327 (Large).jpg IMG_20200914_121524975 (Large).jpg IMG_20200914_141836110 (Large).jpg

    IMG_20200914_142520480 (Large).jpg IMG_20200914_143251523 (Large).jpg IMG_20200914_151213601 (Large).jpg IMG_20200914_151455313 (Large).jpg

    Next will be a replacement guard locking pin. Might feature some gnarly knurling.

    BT

  11. #55
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    Apr 2013
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    Macksville
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    Default

    It looks like the pivot pin has been broken & then put in backwards. The cross hole is for the return spring pin, as shown in this photo.
    20200915_193057.jpg
    The guard is in the closed position in the photo, which shows the required orientation of the hole.
    When you make the locking pin for the guard, remember not to make it stick up higher than the saw table.

  12. #56
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    Nov 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by 62woollybugger View Post
    It looks like the pivot pin has been broken & then put in backwards. The cross hole is for the return spring pin, as shown in this photo....

    The things you dont know!! Thank's Mike. Looks like I have a bit more screwcutting on my hands!

  13. #57
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    Apr 2013
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    Default

    The spring anchor pin's not threaded, it only slips into the pivot pin. I assume that's so you can easily remove the guard for planing wider material. Each diameter of the pin is about 25mm long.

  14. #58
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    Nov 2008
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    Perth WA
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    Quote Originally Posted by 62woollybugger View Post

    ....When you make the locking pin for the guard, remember not to make it stick up higher than the saw table.
    Mike,

    I had been planning on tapping the hole in the Universal's table so that the locking pin could be screwed in place. Silly or worthwhile idea?

    Got as far as making a knurled brass thingo and a 1/4" BSW threaded stud.....

    IMG_20200915_153022873 (Large).jpg IMG_20200915_172712247 (Large).jpg

  15. #59
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    Apr 2013
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    Macksville
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    Default

    I wouldn't worry about a screw in locking pin, I'd just turn down the end of the knob to fit the holes, and round it over. The weight will keep it in place, I've just got a brass machine screw sitting in mine.

  16. #60
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    Nov 2008
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    Perth WA
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    Default The Jointer Guard - Again

    I pursued the idea of being able to lock the guard in place with a thumbscrew because there is a remote chance that my daughter may use the machine and better to be safe than sorry.

    IMG_20200919_124036248 (Large).jpg IMG_20200919_134235240 (Large).jpg IMG_20200919_134652273 (Large).jpg

    The return spring and the removable pin are a slight variation on the original shown in Mike's photo. The pin and the guard's pivot pin are 4140 and the pressed on brass spacer raises the guard just enough that the guard doesn't scrape on the table. The guard takes a couple of seconds to remove.

    IMG_20200922_112628040 (Large).jpg IMG_20200922_112658736 (1).jpg IMG_20200922_112904482 (Large).jpg IMG_20200922_113003281 (Large).jpg IMG_20200922_114005868 (Large).jpg

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