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  1. #91
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Anorak Bob View Post
    Mike,
    The only way clearance can be achieved is with the 3 way clamp and the banjo inverted. Seems too weird to think that is what Woodfast intended.
    Definitely weird.

    I like my tool post top to sometimes be even lower than what your photos as showing.

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  3. #92
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Perth WA
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    71
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    5,650

    Default The Lathe Attachment Modified

    I purchased another 1250mm of 1 1/2" tube, providing me with a pair of probably more practical length rails for the Universal when it is finally shoehorned into the shed. If I do any wood turning I imagine it would be restricted to file handles, knobs and the like. ( Should I ever get serious I do have a Tough lathe stored away in bits.)

    IMG_20201129_095934246.jpg

    Back when I acquired the Tough, I purchased a small Durden toolrest and that rest along with a reduction in height of the banjo's mounting boss have provided the clearance I probably need. I turned up a spacer to ensure that the banjo clears the casting.

    IMG_20201129_150724162.jpg IMG_20201129_161120630.jpg IMG_20201129_102017722 (1).jpg IMG_20201129_110642588.jpg IMG_20201129_144623592.jpg IMG_20201129_151916820.jpg

    The tailstock in its original guise had, to me, some real shortcomings. Its ability to both rotate and slide vertically with no provision for repeatable centreline alignment made no sense. Maybe some parts were missing?
    Anyway, the tailstock needed to raised to centre height and prevented from rotating once aligned. So I made a pinned spacer.

    IMG_20201130_130915501.jpg IMG_20201130_132509124_BURST000_COVER_TOP.jpg IMG_20201130_161101209.jpg IMG_20201201_085108632.jpg IMG_20201201_093821435.jpg IMG_20201201_122558614.jpg

    IMG_20201201_123723016.jpg IMG_20201201_123600648.jpg IMG_20201201_124335380_BURST001.jpg IMG_20201202_055824852.jpg IMG_20201202_055604726.jpg

    I used the lathe to drill the hole in the casting because there was insufficient clearance on the mill. Settting it up took about an hour and a half, driiling the hole, no more than ten seconds. More often than not the way.

    BT

  4. #93
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    Perth WA
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    Default The Thicknesser Revisited

    During the process of further rust removal and rebluing of some of the thicknesser's fixings I noticed that the handle had slight mushrooming where the aluminium was in contact with the cast iron cap. Not a particularly flash design feature IMHO. Neither was the method of handle attachment and endplay adjustment. I could do little about the attachment and adjustment but I could improve on the contact surfaces betwween the handle and cap.

    The handle is held in place by means of an expanding mandrel.

    IMG_20201204_084529737.jpg IMG_20201204_084544374.jpg IMG_20201204_100725269.jpg IMG_20201204_100656660.jpg IMG_20201204_101345481.jpg IMG_20201204_102034847.jpg

    IMG_20201204_102552455.jpg IMG_20201204_103844819.jpg IMG_20201204_111023514.jpg IMG_20201204_123040475_HDR.jpg IMG_20201204_123857423.jpg

    I also made a new slide locking lever from 316.

    IMG_20201127_094044773.jpg IMG_20201127_094120933.jpg IMG_20201127_094327784.jpg

    BT

  5. #94
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    Perth WA
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    Default The Mitre Gauge's Depth Stop

    IMG_20201217_094308870.jpg

    I was tempted to buy a Durden stop currently listed on eBay but it only had a single clamp, not the pair Woodfast supplied with their original stop, so I went the DIY route.
    The original rods were probably 5/16" and would have been a loose fit in the holes in the gauge body. 8mm turned out to be a good fit and the rods I used are 316 stainless steel. The two piece clamps lock solidly on the rods with minimal effort using the Kipp levers which in my mind are an improvement on the wing nuts used by Woodfast.

    IMG_20201210_131919809 (1).jpg IMG_20201210_132346047 (1).jpg IMG_20201211_130555459 (1).jpg IMG_20201211_135601775.jpg IMG_20201211_144903422 (1).jpg IMG_20201211_144938836 (1).jpg IMG_20201211_173615616 (1).jpg IMG_20201212_130511836.jpg

    IMG_20201212_130625100.jpg IMG_20201212_130653400.jpg IMG_20201212_113058018.jpg

    The end plate on the rod is a deviation from the original's 90 degree bent end. I will probably use the Universal's sanding disc on metal, some of which will undoubtedly be small in section and the bent bar would not be up to the task.

    IMG_20201216_144755485.jpg IMG_20201216_151238819.jpg IMG_20201216_163230541.jpg IMG_20201216_170747022.jpg IMG_20201217_095141617.jpg IMG_20201217_095423994.jpg

    IMG_20201217_094751316.jpg

  6. #95
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    Perth WA
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    Default The Bandsaw

    The lack of Woodfast progress is due to a need to work on a Tough drill that if I didn't reacquaint myself with I would forget what I had been doing. It was the project I had been working on before Bob gave me the Universal.

    The bandsaw needed and still needs some work. The blade tensioning/centring mechanism was worn and the original diecast knob absent.

    IMG_20201114_140731106.jpg IMG_20201117_165553880.jpg IMG_20201226_135659044.jpg IMG_20201226_135758891.jpg IMG_20201226_142951440.jpg

    My major concern was the potential breakthrough of the centring adjuster socket in the aluminium casting. To facilitate access for a repair of the socket and also replacement of the tensioner's worn cross dowel I resorted to a hacksaw. Woodfast must have intended replacement of the entire mechanism when they welded the dowel in place. I had intended to replace the flat plate but decided against it when it became apparent the nothing was symmetrical. I made three cross dowels before striking a combination of chamfers and offsets that worked with the worn cast housing.

    IMG_20201228_150236095.jpg IMG_20201228_153624786.jpg IMG_20201229_094501279.jpg IMG_20201229_100705576.jpg IMG_20201229_103645355.jpg

    IMG_20201229_162830870.jpg

    I made a steel insert that incorporated a hemispherical bottomed and taper sided socket to accommodate a radius nosed adjusting rod and bored and counterbored the casting to suit. Cheap carbide router bits work on some steel.

    Then I made a steel handle to replace the missing original. I used 4140 and treated it with Rust Off to give it a 'phosphate' finish. The tensioner's knob received the same treatment.

    IMG_20201230_143156460.jpg IMG_20201230_144604649.jpg

    IMG_20201231_150814876.jpg

    Tyres next.

  7. #96
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    Default

    After numerous distractions I thought it was about time I moved the Woodfast from under the back verandah and up into the shed. For me to move the machine by myself I needed to remove the table.

    IMG_20211029_083320997.jpg IMG_20211029_083341339.jpg

    With the table removed I discovered a crack in the table support / Z axis slide casting.


    IMG_20211029_085438554.jpg

    Then to further my disappointment, turning the casting over revealed another crack in the same lug. With the counterbored holes it was a bit like 'break along the dotted line' !! The casting is expected to do a difficult job supporting the table with one fairly dainty outboard stay. Winding the table up or down with the stay locked would probably be the cause of the cracked casting.

    IMG_20211030_095616609.jpg

    The prospect of distortion if the cracks were welded or brazed, along with the inability to perform either necessitated a mechanical solution. Initially I thought I could install one M10, one M8 and an M5 socket head cap screw in the casting but their was insufficient room for the M10. A fear I had during the drilling and tapping was that the forces involved might cause the lug to break away. I was careful and lucky.

    IMG_20211030_125828882.jpg IMG_20211030_141637470.jpg IMG_20211030_152330736.jpg IMG_20211030_153022613.jpg IMG_20211030_153543221.jpg IMG_20211030_155621210.jpg

    The dimension of the casting meant that the drilling of the 6.75mm ( 17/64" ) tapping hole, the 8mm clearance hole and the 12mm counterbore were done on the 'front' side and the tapping done from the rear because none of my standard length 8mm taps were long enough to tap from the face. I used a 17/54" transfer punch mounted in a collet chuck to ensure alignment of the holes.

    IMG_20211030_161519208.jpg IMG_20211030_161554082.jpg

    I reduced the diameter of the cap screws head to suit the 12mm counterbores. I will probably add a skewed M5 screw on the inboard side of the casting between the counterbored mounting hole and the edge.

    All the screws will be locked in place with Loctite RC635 retaining compound. Hopefully good for a few more years !!


    BT

  8. #97
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    Default

    Big effort there Bob. Any regrets for taking on the machine

  9. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    Big effort there Bob. Any regrets for taking on the machine

    My only regret is not having built a larger shed !!!

  10. #99
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    Apr 2013
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    Macksville
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    62
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    390

    Default

    I was wondering how this project was going. Lucky you've got the skills & equipment to do the repairs & make the new parts.

  11. #100
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    Quote Originally Posted by 62woollybugger View Post
    I was wondering how this project was going. Lucky you've got the skills & equipment to do the repairs & make the new parts.
    Mike,

    This was one repair that could have been done with only a drill press. Not much skill involved other than drilling and tapping. Progress had halted because it was approaching the painting stage and I'm not a big fan of painting. Procrastination is easy.

    Bob.

  12. #101
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    Default

    I'm not a fan of painting either, that's why I did mine with hammertone, covers a multitude of sins.

  13. #102
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    Default Another Repair Completed.



    To reinforce the casting between the inner mounting hole and the edge which has a minimum thickness of 8mm, I used a 1/4" BSW cap screw. My M6 taps all have shanks larger than the thread whereas some of my old 1/4" P&N taps have reduced shanks allowing them to be used in deepish holes. Ensuring that the capscrew was located 4mm from and parallel with the edge required some careful measurement and clamping.

    IMG_20211101_141538678.jpg IMG_20211101_151437055.jpg

    I applied Loctite RC/635 retaining compound to the threads, shanks and heads of the three screws and after the appropriate curing time used JB Weld steel epoxy to conceal them. First time I've used JB Weld and I'm impressed. Previously I have used Devcon Steel Putty which is wonderful stuff but considerably more expensive. After some additional touching up with automotive body filler and priming I airbrushed on some colour matched spraying enamel. The undulations in the surface are existing, not my handiwork.

    IMG_20211102_140255325.jpg IMG_20211102_140316962.jpg IMG_20211103_112201051.jpg IMG_20211103_143602819.jpg IMG_20211103_143708843.jpg

    I included a location map so that any future owner of the machine doesn't reach for their welder if they ever see those cracks.

    IMG_20211103_143530094.jpg


    Bob.

  14. #103
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    Default

    Nice repair Bob.

    I contrast your "precision" repair, with the repairs I'm attempting on the bandsaw mill at the timber yard. The mill is a complete kludge, nothing is effing square on this thing, I keep finding half stripped adjustment bolts and nuts, and imperial and metrics appear to have been used in the wrong bloody holes. There are limited tools and materials to fix things with on site so I end up bringing things home to fix. On Tuesday I needed to tilt the outboard blade guide by 1mm so I looked around for a shimming material and found a couple of beer cans. I looked up up the thickness of cans and found they are about 0.1mm so I cut up a can and folded it over 9 times and used that. BINGO

    This morning I have to tidy up the very sloppy length adjustment of the inboard blade guide arm. Its a ~500mm long 50mm SHS that slides inside a 200mm length 5 x 65 mm SHS with only one 3/8" bolt on the outside to lock the undersized 50mm SHS in place.

    The 65mm SHS is welded onto the mill so it would be a major job to replace that so I'm going to mill a piece of 50 mm angle to slide inside the 65mm SHS to act as a packer/shim for the 50mm.

  15. #104
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    Default

    Thanks Bob.

    I am very fortunate that no one fiddled with the Universal prior to your hand over. No stripped bolts. No nasty welds. Nothing overly knackered. Dealing with the mess created by others holds no appeal, even less so off site !!

  16. #105
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    Default The Motor and The Varispeed Drive

    I removed the motor to facilitate moving the Universal up to the shed and so with the motor out I thought it would be a good time to have a close look at the variable pitch pulley setup. It functioned as intended when I connected the three phase Cadet to a VFD a year ago so I wasn't expecting any surprises. I did however find a couple of features that had me wondering.

    IMG_20211107_084949629.jpg IMG_20211107_084932519.jpg IMG_20211107_085016520.jpg IMG_20211106_151216360.jpg

    A pair of socket set screws lock the Varispeed drive onto the motor's shaft which is spot drilled to locate one of the screws with the other screw locking the key into the keyway.

    Two 1/4" BSW socket set screws lock the end cap of the drive onto the drive's spigot which is an integral part of the fixed pulley sheave. The set screws have deformed the thread.

    IMG_20211107_085205793.jpg IMG_20211107_085634116.jpg IMG_20211107_090914649.jpg IMG_20211107_090900072.jpg

    I expected some serious galling beween the spigot and the sliding sheave's bore but apart from number of small gouges and marks it wasn't too bad.

    IMG_20211107_153504444.jpg IMG_20211107_153657552.jpg IMG_20211107_153939645.jpg IMG_20211107_154011794.jpg IMG_20211107_154625548.jpg IMG_20211107_155023426.jpg IMG_20211107_155450340.jpg IMG_20211107_161036565.jpg IMG_20211107_161140165.jpg

    The sleeve has been 'phosphated' with Rust Off and overcoated with Rustoleum satin clear spray in an attempt to keep rust at bay.

    Next the motor and a search for Delta.

    BT

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