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Thread: Tanner 10" Table Saw
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31st October 2013, 09:41 AM #1New Member
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Tanner 10" Table Saw
I have been trying to get some info on how one removes the arbor pulley spindle / shaft from the arbor housing which will enable me to replace the arbor bearings.
This has me completely baffled as the rear end of the shaft has been machined and is of a slightly larger diameter than the front where the pulley is mounted, and there does not seem to be any way that you can push the shaft through the bearing housing as it is too large and it actually sits against the face of the inner race of the bearing.
On the pulley side, it appears that the shaft and pulley has been machined as one, so one can't push it through from that side unless the pulley has been pressed on to the shaft but it seems to be too good a fit to be pressed on, normally one can tell whether it is pressed on or not.
So my question is how doe one actually remove the shaft to get at the Arbor bearings.
If anyone out there could help me in this regard it would be really appreciated, I have been on Youtube and the internet but no joy there either so any help will be good.
regards
John MacDonald
Auckland
New Zealand
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31st October 2013 09:41 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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31st October 2013, 08:31 PM #2Taking a break
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I'd be very surprised if the pulley and shaft were one piece. A properly machined pulley should need a bearing/gear puller to remove it from the shaft.
As always, pics are good
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1st November 2013, 06:41 PM #3New Member
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Tanner Table saw
Well, I finally got it sorted, I put a multi leg puller on the Belt spindle pulley after reading your comments, and gave it a gentle tweak and it came off beautifully, I thought that it had been machined as a one piece, but we live and learn, then I removed the internal ring circlip between the bearings, and removed the shaft and bearings as a complete unit.
I have now replaced the bearings with new ones, reinstalled the whole assembly, and it runs as smooth as silk.
So thank you for your input, it certainly made me go in the right direction and I am now very happy with the outcome, I should get at least another 10 to 20 years of good service from this table saw.
regards
John MacDonald
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2nd November 2013, 09:41 PM #4Taking a break
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Always happy to help
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16th October 2016, 08:28 AM #5New Member
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- Oct 2016
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The arbor bearing on my 10" Tanner Table Saw is rather noisy and I'm attempting to replace it. I have limited engineering experience any help and guidance will be greatly appreciated. The above posts outline what needs to be done but a bit more precise information will be very helpful to me. John, are you still around? I am in Tauranga and it would be really helpful if we could have a talk about this.
Thanks.
Doug.
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16th October 2016, 09:22 AM #6
Unfortunately Doug, John hasn't been on the forums since he replaced the bearings. What sort of info do you need?
Those were the droids I was looking for.
https://autoblastgates.com.au
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16th October 2016, 09:40 AM #7New Member
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Hi, Thanks for the reply,
I haven't started the job yet... I can see what needs to be done but I just need a bit of guidance to get the confidence to actually do the job. I'm just wanting to do my research thoroughly before I tackle the job. Eg. is it better to remove the bearing assembly/housing from the saw first to replace the bearing or can it be done with the housing in situ. I am worried about causing damage to the saw or getting the bearing replaced and missing an important step and having to start again. I am a very confident woodworker but a bit of a novice when it comes to engineering stuff.
Doug.
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16th October 2016, 03:17 PM #8
There is usually a logical sequence to the assembly and disassembly of something like a table saw. I prefer to remove the assembly to give yourself as much room to work as possible. If you can do it inside the cabinet then go for it but don't struggle for days for the sake of saving a few minutes removing the assembly first. Take a heap of photos before and during disassembly. You can refer back to them once you start to reassemble if you get lost.
Those were the droids I was looking for.
https://autoblastgates.com.au
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16th October 2016, 04:10 PM #9
The photos are a huge help. I usually have my phone right by my side and I take photos of each assembly from every angle and then photos after each part is removed. I then bag all parts and screws in zip lock bags and label everything with a sharpie. You can actually get pretty huge zip lock bags from Coles these days, I have some massive ones for larger assemblies.
Luckily the old machines were actually made to be disassembled so it's usually pretty hard to damage things if you take your time. If you run into problems there are lots of people around here who can offer help, just post up some pics as you hit problems and we'll walk you through it. Just avoid encouraging things with hammers too much as that's usually where I've come into trouble, I pretty much always use a small wooden mallet these days and that works a lot better.
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17th October 2016, 06:26 PM #10Intermediate Member
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17th October 2021, 06:34 PM #11New Members
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- Nelson.NZ
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Hi there, I have a 10inch tanner like everyone seems to be describing. I have limited enginneering experience, im a builder and reasonably ok at pulling things apart and putting them back together again. Im wanting to weld up a new bench for the saw and motor to mount onto. I was wondering if people could send some photos through of their tables and details in particular of how they have mounted their motor and what system they have for tensioning the belt. Thanks, Arrun
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15th June 2023, 11:41 AM #12
I no longer have the Tanner, however, it was mounted on a pressed steel stand with motor mounted inside the stand on a hinged plate. The weight of the motor did the tensioning.
TS2.jpgThose were the droids I was looking for.
https://autoblastgates.com.au
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