Results 1 to 12 of 12
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    New Zealand
    Posts
    2

    Unhappy Tanner 10" Table Saw

    I have been trying to get some info on how one removes the arbor pulley spindle / shaft from the arbor housing which will enable me to replace the arbor bearings.

    This has me completely baffled as the rear end of the shaft has been machined and is of a slightly larger diameter than the front where the pulley is mounted, and there does not seem to be any way that you can push the shaft through the bearing housing as it is too large and it actually sits against the face of the inner race of the bearing.

    On the pulley side, it appears that the shaft and pulley has been machined as one, so one can't push it through from that side unless the pulley has been pressed on to the shaft but it seems to be too good a fit to be pressed on, normally one can tell whether it is pressed on or not.

    So my question is how doe one actually remove the shaft to get at the Arbor bearings.

    If anyone out there could help me in this regard it would be really appreciated, I have been on Youtube and the internet but no joy there either so any help will be good.

    regards

    John MacDonald

    Auckland

    New Zealand

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    34
    Posts
    6,127

    Default

    I'd be very surprised if the pulley and shaft were one piece. A properly machined pulley should need a bearing/gear puller to remove it from the shaft.

    As always, pics are good

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    New Zealand
    Posts
    2

    Default Tanner Table saw

    Well, I finally got it sorted, I put a multi leg puller on the Belt spindle pulley after reading your comments, and gave it a gentle tweak and it came off beautifully, I thought that it had been machined as a one piece, but we live and learn, then I removed the internal ring circlip between the bearings, and removed the shaft and bearings as a complete unit.
    I have now replaced the bearings with new ones, reinstalled the whole assembly, and it runs as smooth as silk.
    So thank you for your input, it certainly made me go in the right direction and I am now very happy with the outcome, I should get at least another 10 to 20 years of good service from this table saw.

    regards

    John MacDonald

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    34
    Posts
    6,127

    Default

    Always happy to help

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    NZ
    Posts
    2

    Default

    The arbor bearing on my 10" Tanner Table Saw is rather noisy and I'm attempting to replace it. I have limited engineering experience any help and guidance will be greatly appreciated. The above posts outline what needs to be done but a bit more precise information will be very helpful to me. John, are you still around? I am in Tauranga and it would be really helpful if we could have a talk about this.

    Thanks.
    Doug.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Katoomba NSW
    Posts
    4,770

    Default

    Unfortunately Doug, John hasn't been on the forums since he replaced the bearings. What sort of info do you need?
    Those were the droids I was looking for.
    https://autoblastgates.com.au

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    NZ
    Posts
    2

    Default

    Hi, Thanks for the reply,

    I haven't started the job yet... I can see what needs to be done but I just need a bit of guidance to get the confidence to actually do the job. I'm just wanting to do my research thoroughly before I tackle the job. Eg. is it better to remove the bearing assembly/housing from the saw first to replace the bearing or can it be done with the housing in situ. I am worried about causing damage to the saw or getting the bearing replaced and missing an important step and having to start again. I am a very confident woodworker but a bit of a novice when it comes to engineering stuff.

    Doug.

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Katoomba NSW
    Posts
    4,770

    Default

    There is usually a logical sequence to the assembly and disassembly of something like a table saw. I prefer to remove the assembly to give yourself as much room to work as possible. If you can do it inside the cabinet then go for it but don't struggle for days for the sake of saving a few minutes removing the assembly first. Take a heap of photos before and during disassembly. You can refer back to them once you start to reassemble if you get lost.
    Those were the droids I was looking for.
    https://autoblastgates.com.au

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    1,813

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by NCArcher View Post
    There is usually a logical sequence to the assembly and disassembly of something like a table saw. I prefer to remove the assembly to give yourself as much room to work as possible. If you can do it inside the cabinet then go for it but don't struggle for days for the sake of saving a few minutes removing the assembly first. Take a heap of photos before and during disassembly. You can refer back to them once you start to reassemble if you get lost.
    The photos are a huge help. I usually have my phone right by my side and I take photos of each assembly from every angle and then photos after each part is removed. I then bag all parts and screws in zip lock bags and label everything with a sharpie. You can actually get pretty huge zip lock bags from Coles these days, I have some massive ones for larger assemblies.

    Luckily the old machines were actually made to be disassembled so it's usually pretty hard to damage things if you take your time. If you run into problems there are lots of people around here who can offer help, just post up some pics as you hit problems and we'll walk you through it. Just avoid encouraging things with hammers too much as that's usually where I've come into trouble, I pretty much always use a small wooden mallet these days and that works a lot better.

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Geraldton, Australia
    Age
    38
    Posts
    36

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by johnmd View Post
    Well, I finally got it sorted, I put a multi leg puller on the Belt spindle pulley after reading your comments, and gave it a gentle tweak and it came off beautifully, I thought that it had been machined as a one piece, but we live and learn, then I removed the internal ring circlip between the bearings, and removed the shaft and bearings as a complete unit.
    I have now replaced the bearings with new ones, reinstalled the whole assembly, and it runs as smooth as silk.
    So thank you for your input, it certainly made me go in the right direction and I am now very happy with the outcome, I should get at least another 10 to 20 years of good service from this table saw.

    regards

    John MacDonald
    John just by chance your not related to James McDonald of geraldton western Australian ?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2021
    Location
    Nelson.NZ
    Age
    39
    Posts
    1

    Default

    Hi there, I have a 10inch tanner like everyone seems to be describing. I have limited enginneering experience, im a builder and reasonably ok at pulling things apart and putting them back together again. Im wanting to weld up a new bench for the saw and motor to mount onto. I was wondering if people could send some photos through of their tables and details in particular of how they have mounted their motor and what system they have for tensioning the belt. Thanks, Arrun

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Katoomba NSW
    Posts
    4,770

    Default

    I no longer have the Tanner, however, it was mounted on a pressed steel stand with motor mounted inside the stand on a hinged plate. The weight of the motor did the tensioning.
    TS2.jpg
    Those were the droids I was looking for.
    https://autoblastgates.com.au

Similar Threads

  1. Tanner Thicknesser
    By Ian T in forum JOINTERS, MOULDERS, THICKNESSERS, ETC
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 29th March 2016, 09:21 PM
  2. Sideshow by Lindsay Tanner
    By Sebastiaan56 in forum NOTHING AT ALL TO DO WITH WOODWORK
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 1st June 2011, 09:22 AM
  3. Tanner thicknesser
    By rev in forum JOINTERS, MOULDERS, THICKNESSERS, ETC
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 25th September 2003, 12:33 AM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •