Thread: TiN Table Saw Coatings - Opinions / Experience?

I think that $500 would buy you about seven litres of SilberGleit (silver glide) which is used to reduce friction on cast iron tops and alloy fences etc. I think it would take me about three lifetimes to use that much. Paraffin wax is even cheaper,

A TiN coating will eventually show signs of wear, and then it will look like crap forever.

What Greg Q said

The only thing I would add is that during one of my many health catastrophies I took my eye off the ball and now my top is damaged by rust. No idea if there isa good easy fix out there. The lesson is keep a film of whatever you prefer on that top during periods of low use.

Thanks for your responses, you make valid points about the cost of it.

It will be my first machine with a cast iron top (others are all phenolic, stainless or painted) and was wondering how quickly rust takes hold and how much work it takes with coating to keep it at bay. Like Damian suggested sometimes life get in the way and its can be a few weeks before I get into the workshop, sometimes it gets reasonably humid in Brisbane but am guessing it takes a few months rather than a few weeks.

Will go the non coated option and will just have to keep an eye on it, I have a use Silberglide for low friction reasons, does this work well as a corrosion inhibitor or do I need to use something else in combination? Any suggestions?

Guessing if its minor - moderate those rust off products might work if you get surface rust. Damian have you tried Evapo-Rust or the like?

I'm in SEQ and have kept my bandsaw table in good condition just giving it a quick wipe with paste wax once every month or two or after heavy usage. I did once let a bit of surface rust form, but I just sanded it back with 600 then 1200. Lesson learned!

Any kind of wax/oil will help to inhibit corrosion. Just need to pick something that's not silicone based!

I also coat my t/s to prevent rust;
but also cover it when it's not going to be used for a bit.

I use the U-Beaut Traditional wax on all my cast iron surfaces and it acts as a rust suppressant and also creates a slippery surface. I find that I only need to apply it every couple of months. I have used Silbergleit and found it creates a slippery surface, but didn't prevent rust. Covering the surface as verawood does also helps slow the rust problem. I only use an old piece of bed sheet on my machines so nothing fancy and it seems to work. If there is one thing I can't stand is rusty, grippy work surfaces on machines

I have used scotchbrite pads on a random orbital sander to remove rust with great success. But yeah, wax and oil do wonders, as does a breathable cloth cover.

My own super power is corrosiveness. I think I sweat nitric acid because I rust iron on contact, so I get a bit of practice with the rust.

I wish there was an affordable laser rust remover…they all seem to be about $15,000.

I was out of action for some time. Months and months. My advice would be to give the table a wipe over with your product of choice at the end of proceedings every time. You never know what might happen tomorrow and if you might find yourself in hospital for weeks on end then too unwell to give the workshop a thought for some time.


I should try and get a photograph of the damage. It will need some sort of filler. The machine is still usable I just need to be mindful of the uneven surface. 2c

I will give U-Beaut Traditional wax a go. Another one someone suggested was Evapo-Rust Rust Block apparently they also do a rust remover

In my salty humid enviroment i've found the silver gliet to be an average performer.... compared to the G15 rust preventative spray (probably just silicon) one spray and a quick rub and it lasted months with no rust.... BUT it does leave crap on your wood and causes the dust to clump.

but the silver gliet lasted maybe a month before the red haze appeared. my jointer is still going strong with the G15 on it after about 6 months of no use and no rust.

I'm also only a hobby user, I may only use my saw for a few cuts once a fortnight, maybe longer. I did see those TiN coatings and personally I think I would have gone with one just to try it out. If I could take my tops somewhere and have it done I probably would.

I’ve been using paste wax for 40 years, my dad before that, lately I’ve found that polishing it in with a burnishing disc on a reduced speed 4” angle grinder has dramatically increased the time needed between applications. Paste wax works. 8B2CD82B-7287-427C-AED8-89001BCB1938.jpeg

A regular candle works pretty well too

So if I was looking to buy some wax for mine what would I buy ?