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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    Hervey Bay
    Posts
    26

    Default trying to align my saw

    Hi All, I have a current model carbatec table saw ( TS-C250P ) , I've never been totally happy with it's alignment to the mitre slot. Using the right hand slot it is off by .15mm at 90 and .25mm at 45 ,front to back of the blade.
    I've recently moved and now have the saw disassembled and am on a mission to get it as good as I can. Problem is loosening the 4 bolts holding the cast top the cabinet does not seem to free it enough to be able to bumped ( or shoved manipulated etc ) into alignment as stated in the manual. The cast top seems to be connected somewhere else aswell?
    I understand the front needs to be shimmed to fix the 45 alignment (the back of the blade is further from the mitre slot than the front ) however the motor side of the top is stuck fast to the cabinet.
    Any pointers/tips anyone has would be greatly appreciated.
    I've also been looking at the grizzly go833p manual as it has a lot more detail than the carbatec one.

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Wolvi
    Posts
    161

    Default

    6. To adjust the table, loosen the four cap screws in the
    table mounting locations (See Figure 31) and slightly tap
    the table in the needed direction. Repeat Steps 2–5 until
    the blade and miter slot are parallel.

    I'd say you'll need to just give it some additional encourgement for it to come loose.

    I have found the "bump" method of adjustment to be irritating at best. I use a 900mm clamp. One end on the cabinet and the other on the table top, squeeze the handle & repeat from either side as necessary, it provides a fair bit more control.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Albury
    Posts
    1,573

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Feckit View Post
    I have found the "bump" method of adjustment to be irritating at best. I use a 900mm clamp. One end on the cabinet and the other on the table top, squeeze the handle & repeat from either side as necessary, it provides a fair bit more control.
    I second that method. If you're able to put an alignment mark on two adjacent surfaces so that you're able to accurately see the movement you're getting it helps a lot. It's still a PITA of a job though.
    Forum members PM me for a discount on all my products - https://www.ebay.com.au/str/aldavsstore

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    Hervey Bay
    Posts
    26

    Default

    Thanks, I'll give it a try.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Alexandra Vic
    Age
    64
    Posts
    2,523

    Default

    I'm not familiar with your saw model so please take this with a grain of salt.

    If you have loosened the table mounting bolts and cannot budge the table across, it may help to mark the current location on 4 sides of the frame and corresponding points underneath the table, then lift the table completely and enlarge the holes that the bolts pass through by 0.5 to 1mm. This will give 1 to 2mm of additional freedom to move the table to sort out the alignment issues. You can then replace the top using the alignment marks, and resume the alignment process with some additional movement available.
    I used to be an engineer, I'm not an engineer any more, but on the really good days I can remember when I was.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Perth WA Australia
    Posts
    490

    Default

    Agree with others, in giving it a good shove, sometimes the top can rust into its mounting holes making it seem like its attached elsewhere

    While you're at it also check how much arbor runout and check how flat your flanges are, both of these can add to the amount of discrepancy.

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