Thread: trying to align my saw

6. To adjust the table, loosen the four cap screws in the
table mounting locations (See Figure 31) and slightly tap
the table in the needed direction. Repeat Steps 2–5 until
the blade and miter slot are parallel.

I'd say you'll need to just give it some additional encourgement for it to come loose.

I have found the "bump" method of adjustment to be irritating at best. I use a 900mm clamp. One end on the cabinet and the other on the table top, squeeze the handle & repeat from either side as necessary, it provides a fair bit more control.

Originally Posted by Feckit

I have found the "bump" method of adjustment to be irritating at best. I use a 900mm clamp. One end on the cabinet and the other on the table top, squeeze the handle & repeat from either side as necessary, it provides a fair bit more control.

I second that method. If you're able to put an alignment mark on two adjacent surfaces so that you're able to accurately see the movement you're getting it helps a lot. It's still a PITA of a job though.

Thanks, I'll give it a try.

I'm not familiar with your saw model so please take this with a grain of salt.

If you have loosened the table mounting bolts and cannot budge the table across, it may help to mark the current location on 4 sides of the frame and corresponding points underneath the table, then lift the table completely and enlarge the holes that the bolts pass through by 0.5 to 1mm. This will give 1 to 2mm of additional freedom to move the table to sort out the alignment issues. You can then replace the top using the alignment marks, and resume the alignment process with some additional movement available.

Agree with others, in giving it a good shove, sometimes the top can rust into its mounting holes making it seem like its attached elsewhere

While you're at it also check how much arbor runout and check how flat your flanges are, both of these can add to the amount of discrepancy.