Thread: TSC 10HB feint hearted warning

Why do you need to remove the motor and arbour?

Before doing that I'd take it outside and
a) shove a vac wand down the space for the throat place to get all the dust out?
b) the use a compressor blow the stuck on dust loose and repeat a).
c) lube accessible points
d) Try it out and see what happens.

Vacuumed as much as I could get at,

Then blew out more crap with reverse vacuum, dont have compressor.

vacuumed that extra up and fired it up.

runs sweet, then put the blade back on and within a minute screaming jeepers is back. Its an ear piecing scream.

The shaft the blade bolts onto has that flange in photos above, I would suspect there is a bearing in behind that.

Shudder is this a case of whole top off so I can get at that bearing ?

hopefully you don't damage the flange but......

you can try gripping the belts to stop it from spinning and get a wide set of stilsons (adjustable pipe spanner) on the outer part. You can also just measure the flats and roughly cut something out of a bit plate steel or buy the cheapest spanner you can that's the right size and just grind/sand it down to the right thickness.

thats assuming it actually unscrews... it may just be pressed or just sitting onto that shaft thats pressed into the bearing. hard to tell with out the parts diagram or manual

I'd be very surprised if that flange is not integral with the arbor shaft, ie. it is a single machined part and the components cannot be separated. There will be a bearing behind the flange and another one at the other end of the shaft the other side of the drive belt pulley. Access may be easier if you flip the saw onto the table, ie. turn it upside down.

Before doing any disassembly I'd be trying to determine where the noise is coming from. I noticed in your pictures that there's no bolt in the belt tensioning mechanism at the motor, I'm assuming you removed this bolt and it hasn't just fallen out or sheared off? If the noise is coming from the drive belts and they're properly tensioned with pulleys and belts clean a suitable automotive belt lubricant could help.

Have you tried spinning the arbor by hand with the drive belts disconnected? It should spin very freely and smoothly. If it doesn't the bearings are shot and will need to be replaced. Do you have a manual for the saw?

manual?? what is this you speak of? contacted Carbatec and the comments I got about age, thought of throwing it out etc etc the manual they uploaded for me is the same as came with saw brand new.
Yes the flange is part of that shaft, solves trying to remove it.
I will be removing the belts and spinning both arbor shaft and motor shaft to see if I can decipher where the noise comes from.
Am thinking of removing whole top so I can access the internal guts easier. wish me luck.

Take the table off, it’s the best way.

haha bet ya too it.
As the guy from Carbatec said dont break any parts cause they are not replaceable, bought it 2008 fair go.
I will admit this has me scared shootless, so much rust and dirt.
Yes I am embarrassed by its condition as seen in these picsinsidesaw1.jpginsidesaw2.jpginsidesaw3.jpg

have used half can of Inox lubricating spray.
I thought lifting the top off would be the answer but NO. Ive now loosened every bolt I can see as I thought start pulling this cast iron piece off.... NO again somehow they all seem integrated. Now trying to remove that pin (pic3) so I can undo that gauge & knob which supposedly is all that blocking it from moving out of case.

One mistake I turned the power off and unplugged then started removing wires from motor. SHOIT wrong plug removed

whose a happy little vegemite.. electrical repair shop just advised me bearings in motor have been replaced and all ready for pickup.
Fart...next 8 days are already booked for work, at least I will get it home today, then slowly take my time 9whenever that is) getting it all reassembled and the dust system working.

well I thought I am my own boss, its home so lets make a start,
progressing nicely but I am concerned about the rust around edges of cabinet, rust converter should be OK there.... but I await learned responses.

The table top is ....leaves a little to be desired.... will add photos shortly, but any help in really cleaning up a cast table top appreciated.


pictures for your amusement and amazement at what can happen without proper care when storing and bringing back into use

talk to a machine shop about the table top. it really shouldn't cost all that much to have it re-ground

Originally Posted by havabeer69

talk to a machine shop about the table top. it really shouldn't cost all that much to have it re-ground

a quote when recently in Adelaide $600, yes a dedicated machine but no thank you, brought it back home and using oil and a honing stone will bring it back to where I am happy.

Meanwhile, all reassembled everything checked and tight, turn on and scream is still there. take the blade off and screaming stops, hmmm said brain I wonder so found the original blade, fit it and well stuff me no screaming noise, swap blades over screaming returns.

So all this time and trouble appears to have been caused by a Bunnings purchased Irwin blade...not bl**dy happy.

How many teeth on the blade? A blade with a low number of teeth (24 for example) makes a lot more noise than a high tooth count. Or could it just be their geometry?

both blades are 80 tooth

whose a happy chappy.

Havent finished yet but all this fiasco of screaming machine noises appears to have been caused by a blade I bought from Bunnies ???years ago,
senario...
back home after tool shop replaced bearings in motor & arbor (although there appeared nothing wrong with what was there).
reassembled, squared everything,
hours and havent finished oil stoning and sanding table & extension top
turn it on and seriously Ive just sat there listening to it run so smooth so quiet, no screaming noise.

need to make new acrylic no gap plates for the blade(s)
try and design a riving knife and finish overhead dust removal.

might be done by Christmas year 202?

Originally Posted by Tonyz

Vacuumed as much as I could get at,

Then blew out more crap with reverse vacuum, dont have compressor.

vacuumed that extra up and fired it up.

runs sweet, then put the blade back on and within a minute screaming jeepers is back. Its an ear piecing scream.

The shaft the blade bolts onto has that flange in photos above, I would suspect there is a bearing in behind that.

Shudder is this a case of whole top off so I can get at that bearing ?

edit - oops should read the post entirely - I see you have already discovered the cause.

1. What blade is on the saw when the scream / whine starts?
2. Does the saw plate have expansion slots?
3. Have you fitted another blade?
4. Does the scream / whine occur with that blade too?
5. Does the scream / whine change in pitch, volume etc when a cut is commenced?

If the blade you are using has expansion slots, the "S" shaped cutouts in the blade, it may be the saw blade that is creating the high pitched screaming noise. Though they may not be the direct cause of the noise. The scream / whine can occur on all designs, is not saw plate thickness dependent, and can be attributed to a number of sources.

I have a couple of very highly respected manufacturers quite expensive saw blades that drive me nuts because of the whine they generate on my table saw but do not on a mates TS. Go figure??

The design of some blades, or a manufacturing defect, tooth placement / design / sharpening etc may cause the saw blade to generate a turbine like scream whilst simply spinning at high rpm. When working with my Dad in the 1970's we stopped using one particular saw sharpener because blades that were brilliant would come back noisy as. Changed service provider, problem went away.

Try another blade (not the same brand / manufacturer) on the saw before pulling down the saw chasing a potential phantom, that is really just an annoying saw blade.

Saw blade whine is quite common, and some manufacturers (even some very well respected brands) blades seem prone to causing it. It really must be dealt with as the whine dB volumes falls into the very hazardous to hearing category for the user and those nearby. Also really pi$$es off neighbours.

The quality of the cut surfaces also tell a tale of what is happening, closely spaced radial "ripples" tend to indicate blade vibration / wobble, saw tooth damage, bent saw plate etc. all of which can cause whine.