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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Shepparton *ugh*
    Age
    49
    Posts
    1,185

    Default Too much wax on the table

    I did something wrong the last time I waxed up my saws' top and it seems that I left a hefty layer of wax on it as any time I use it now I get dust collecting in dots and staying stuck to the table...even though the table was smooth and slippery to the touch.

    When the problem first came up I thought I'd cut it back properly with super fine steel wool and a buff with a cloth without adding any more wax. Didn't seem to help as the dots came back again today.

    Now I could quite simply go over it with steel wool again but with mineral turps this time and take it all right off, but I'm wondering if something like a drill powered buffing mop would be of any assistance once I've gotten rid of the dots manually. I'm sure I've read once, but only once, somewhere that it's a bad idea though, so whatchas reckon? It would certainly be useful to me in the usual buffing process as my arms get a bit knackered by the time I've rubbed the wax on and started buffing.


    And I guess while I'm at it...what's your usual process when waxing up?

    When I've done a super clean and have a bare table I put the first coat of wax on with steel wool in small circles across the whole table. Then I go back with a clean cloth and buff it, then do it all again but waxing up with a cloth instead of the steel wool. If it's just a touch up waxing I apply the wax in bigger circles with just a cloth and buff as before. By the time I start buffing, the wax has dried and is quite sticky and tough to work through but the process has worked for me until now.

    Is that the normal run of things or should I be putting the wax on in smaller areas (or a relatively quick "swipe" coat over a section at a time) and buffing while it's still "wet"?

    Cheers

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Port Pirie SA
    Age
    52
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    6,908

    Default

    Dont use steel wool it gets in too the pores of cast and promotes rust!
    ....................................................................

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Shepparton *ugh*
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    Default

    Whoops. Duly noted

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Brisbane - South
    Posts
    2,395

    Default

    Thinners will remedy the wax problem very quickly.
    Cheers

    Major Panic

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Darkest NSW
    Posts
    3,207

    Default

    I use the Norton synthetic pads to put the wax on - can be found in most paint shops.

    I think the one I use (white) is equivalent to 000 or 0000 steel wool.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    BELL POST HILL, 3215
    Age
    87
    Posts
    2,332

    Default The Saw Top.

    Hi RSG,
    Buy some " Silbien Gleit " or Silver Glide, $30, but you will never use it all.
    Best stuff I have ever used. Have it on all parts of my Wood Lathe, Band Saw Table, Makita Table Saw & so on.
    Always clean everything down first & you use this Product very, very Sparingly.
    If you buy it, someone might like to buy 1/2 off you.
    Jim Carroll sells it.
    Regards,
    issatree.
    Have Lathe, Wood Travel.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Shepparton *ugh*
    Age
    49
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    1,185

    Default

    *nods* Thought I'd do a wee comparison and give that a spin when I've used up the wax.
    Love the smell of the trad wax though. Makes me smell like purty like

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Darkest NSW
    Posts
    3,207

    Default

    I've used both Silverglide and wax.....tend to flit between the two. One small can of the Silverglide will certainly last a very long time, but keep it comewhere cool or it tends to separate out.

    The little particles in the Silverglide will make all your machines very sparkly, if your shed needs more bling.....

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    NSW southern Highlands
    Posts
    548

    Default

    The wax I like is EEE ultra shine from the forum sponsor. It has a very fine abrasive which cleans the dirt & any fine surface rust off the table. When buffed up with a piece of hessian or denim, it leaves a nice hard shine on the table from the Carnauba wax. If the wax you are using has a high content of beeswax it will stay sticky and collect dust. I also use it on tools, and a final finish on shellac.

    Regards

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Shepparton *ugh*
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    49
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    Default

    That sounds interesting Basil. I've got a few splotches on the table that, while not a problem, would be nice to be rid of. The EEE might be of use there over time.

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    kallangur qld
    Posts
    1,074

    Default

    I have just acquired a carba-tech table saw (older 250mm model) with an alloy table, that needs to be cleaned down,

    What would you suggest for the top , it will not be used heavily, and I was intending to use a little bee's wax ?


    Jeff

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Rockhampton
    Age
    62
    Posts
    2,236

    Default

    I have used up my can of silver glide, now I just use an ordinary candle rubbed on to surface in a wave or figure 8 pattern then rub it off to produce a very thin shiny surface, I probably won't but another can of SG as I think the candle wax is better


    Pete

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