Thread: wiring up a cabinet saw

Originally Posted by jaspr

I am becoming a competent wood worker, but I know very little about electrics.

No offence but admitting that I would go straight for a sparky. For them to fit a plug (and probably test & tag at the same time) won't cost much and it is worth it for the piece of mind.

Jaspr

If this was newly purchased check with the seller. It may be a mistake that there is no plug. They may well get it sorted for you.

Get whoever you bought it off the sort it out.

The whole warranty/safety thing means that if you do it, all warranty support goes out the window, and if it blows up, you are on your own.

I am not sure, but unless you bought it knowing that it had no plug top on it, then the seller might have a legal responsibility to make sure it is able to be plugged in, meaning they have to fit the plug to it.

Don't take that as a truth, but supplying 'portable*' equipment without a plug doesn't work.

* 'Portable' means plugged in and mobile*

* 'Mobile' means not bolted to anything immovable.

thanks everyone

I'm actually not so incompetent that I can't connect a plug to three wires safely - but yes I do understand the need for licensed electricians to do wiring, so thanks for the advice.

I was just confused as to why it is set up for hard wiring, rather than plugging into a powerpoint. Being a Powermatic, I guess it is aimed at the US market and maybe they hardwire things because of their lower volt circuits - or something???.

The saw is definitely a 1 phase job, 3 HP, and 13 something amps, so I guess it's ok to wire in a plug. I better check with the supplier, though, if no-one here knows why it came like that.

Originally Posted by jaspr

I was just confused as to why it is set up for hard wiring, rather than plugging into a powerpoint. Being a Powermatic, I guess it is aimed at the US market and maybe they hardwire things because of their lower volt circuits - or something???.

If it draws 13 Amp at 240 V then it draws 26 A at 120 V. This is a serious current and almost certainly means a hard wire. My guess is the circular connection is the earth but don't bet on it. You could test this with a continuity or ohm meter since it should (note should) connect to the metal casing of the saw/motor. The other two wires - sorry can't help

Ahh...

No plug because different parts of the US use different plugs, especially on bigger power things and depending on voltage too. Very possible the earth (yes, the ring thingy) is screwed to terminal that's part of the power point. Tis how they do it here, which explaqins why I never bother, since it's all got safety switches on it anyways.

Bob, it's prolly happier running at 220V 2 phase than 110-120V.

Not saying you are not competant to wire a plug, it's just that you are not licensed to do so, and if they want to get all stoopid about things, then they can make you wear a legit warranty claim if one arises.

Besides, for the amount of cash they ask for a Powermatic, they sure as shoot would want to be supplying a plug, along with someone to connect the thing up.

* 'Portable' means plugged in and mobile*

* 'Mobile' means not bolted to anything immovable*

* 'Immovable' means not portable*

Sorry, couldn't resist...

The TSC-10HB ships here without a plug.... but it clearly is a 240V single phase device, no funnies. You put a plug on it and you put a 15 amp motor fuse on the board and it goes.... well, in fact it doesn't go because you have to un-click the stop button first - and you worry for an hour that you just bought a DoA motor, or you blew the transformer down at the road.... then you activate the switch and then it goes.... But a Powermatic - I'd be looking carefully at the motor to see how many volts etc... It might think it's back home in the USA. On balance, I'd get an electrician for this one.

I'm 'fairly' sure that the law states that a plug "must" be fitted to any electrical equipment sold in Australia.

Cheers
Paul H