Thread: New (old) Wolfenden table saw - is it backwards??

ordinarily I'd agree with you, you'd want the height adjustment close by so you can change it up as you go, without having to stop, go completely around the machine, make a small adjustment, go all the way back, and then start again. Certainly not the safest set of operations to do small adjustments when sneaking up on some depth-of-cut that you're looking to achieve.

Yes, the fence is probably easy to relocate to the opposite face.

Whether it's a simple matter to reverse the motor, that's a much more open question. I'm not knowledgeable enough to comment, but get a sparky to look at it and tell you in the first instance. There's some folk here who might be able to comment better than I, but I also suspect they're going to want you to take photos of the motor rating page and if possible the connector box, perhaps open if you can, so that it shows connections... that will possibly give them enough to rate the likelihood of success without being on the ground.

edit: by the way, nice pickup, although I bet h-e-a-v-y. Does it have a tilting arbor?

There’s been a few Wolfenden tablesaws mentioned on here.
Probably in the Antique and vintage machinery area.
I know of a few in Canberra and there was postings by Melbourne Matty and other Melbourne based members.
The main concern re backwards would be the thread on the saw spindle.
Its meant to be threaded against the rotation so the nut self tightens.
I’d be wary of using it if the nut could loosen during use.
H.

Have you checked which direction the blade is travelling. The previous owner may have just quickly put the blade on without thinking. Is the saw 240 or 415? Either is very easy to rearrange to get it spinning in the right direction. There is no substitute for kgs of cast iron

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Thanks all - so to add a bit more clarity:
The previous owner gave me a demo, so it's all working for the direction that the blade currently spins. The spindle however is threaded the wrong way - good catch Clearout! It has obviously worked up until now, but it is further motivation to work on getting things flipped around the right way.
Motor is 240v - I've attached a photo of the motor specs:IMG_4933.jpg
Yes, the arbor tilts, and yes it's very heavy! That tiny table alone is 35kg

I think the motor has been connected the wrong way and is spinning backwards. The way the spindle threads is the clue like clearout said. The height adjustment and fence rail should also face you. I had this happen when I bought a Delta saw. Secondhand but never used. First time I cranked her up it spun the wrong way. Wires had been connected @r$e about to the motor. As with all things electric best get someone qualified to take a look.
Regards
John

Once started, a single phase induction motor will happily run in either direction. To reverse it, we need to change the direction of the rotating magnetic field produced by the main and starter windings. And this can be accomplished by reversing the polarity of the starter winding.
Snip from Google.

It is not a big job to reverse an induction motor but it must be done by a qualified person or it may not only be the blade that bites.
Take the motor out and take it to a motor repair place.

Looks like this pulley wants another belt on it?

IMG_4951.jpg

I used to own one with the side tables. Wonderful saw and I regret selling it. Mine came with a 2hp 3ph motor. Some fool has obviously repowered it with the motor running in the reverse direction. The infeed is the end with the height adjuster wheel. The spindle nut IIRC is a 5/8" BSF left hand thread. Replacements are like hens teeth.

Ken

Well that's my next problem Ken - getting the spindle nut off. It's on very tight! And with the blade backwards, it's very hard to find a way to grip it while trying to turn the nut. Will keep your comment in mind when tempted by cutoff discs etc...

On the spindle there are 2 holes located in the hub beside the blade. I think it may be on the motor side of the blade. These holes are for a close fitting rod to be installed to stop the shaft rotating for removing the nut. Being a LH thread it is Not 'lefty loosy; righty tighty. You may be aware of it; but I will advise it anyway. To undo the nut its rotation will be to the larger infeed table and height adjuster wheel end. Just make sure that the pin spanner is a tight fit in the hole otherwise the hole will be damaged.

Ken

Cheers Ken - I can't find those holes you mention. Either I'm looking in the wrong spot, or my saw is a different model. I'm getting desperate - I got the blade all clamped/secured and put a huge wrench on the nut and actually managed to spin the whole arbor within the blade. Ie. that nut is properly frozen on!

Is there any thread on the spindle visible between the nut and spindle end. If it spirals inward to the left =LH thread; inward to the right = RH thread.

I am wondering if a threadlocker compound has been used to stop loosening. If so the nut will need to be heated to break the threadlocker. An LP /MAP torch should suffice as you do not need red heat. A wet rag around the shaft and bearing will help from heat damage to the bearing.
A few days applications of penetrant (wd40/crc) may help to break it loose. If I was closer I would come and have a look for you. What part of Horribourne are you in?

Can you get a photo of the nut and thread from the front showing the thread?