Thread: Off to Wood Show to get a Table Saw

How did you go?

I ended up getting a Carbatec CTJ650 contracor saw. Just couldn't justify the extra money for a cabinet saw. (hope I don't regret it down the track) The cheapest Carbatec cabinet saw was over $1500. Cost me $910 and spent another $110 on an 80 tooth CMT blade. The top and side wings are all cast and quite solid. Apparently they don't run as quiet as the cabinet saws due to the motor hanging off the belt but I might get a good quality seamless V-belt and try to stabilise the motor a bit. The guy who showed me the machines was really good....honest about some minor drawbacks in the saw but convinced me it would do the job .

I'm pretty sure it will do a lot better job than the Triton compact saw table I have been using for the last 6 years. Mind you I've made plenty of stuff with it so can't complain.

I didn't get to see the Hafco saws and wasn't willing to buy without seeing one.

Just waiting on delivery and after it's setup I'll let you know how it performs.

I bought the CTJ at the Sydney Show.

To date I have done a bit of sheet work, as well as general ww. I have also done one heavy ripping session on 1-2" SO boards, removing waney edge and ripping to width.

In general, I would say good value, and perfectly suited to my needs.

Specifics to date:

Assembly and manual, not too bad by chinglish standards, but some problems with text, photos, and my machine not matching. In particular, the fitting of the rear cab plate.
No mention of the studs for levelling the wings. I was about to start shimming to get the top flat, when I divined what the extra bits in the pack were. Once done, and with wings tapped flush before tightening, table flatness very good. One area with ~ 0.5mm cup over 10".
Arbor/blade to mitre slot alignment spot on out of box. Aligning riving knife more of a problem.
Rip fence easy to set up and align. Without comparison to more sophisticated versions, I have found it fine. A little rear flex under heavy pressure, but generally not an issue. With heavy large sheets, I would probably put a clamp on the back in future. Ability to rip 700mm an advantage, for breaking down 8x4 sheets.
Again no comparison, but guard a POC. Obscures vision, and flimsy and twists while ripping, contacting blade.
Had to do a bit of resetting of 90/45deg stops to get them right, and the angle guage on the tilt was way out. Mitre guage is a bit basic, but with setting up and a sacrificial fence, is actually quite accurate. Will benefit from a crosscut sled though.

Was initially a bit worried about power, but for hobby and light work, no problems. Ripped 2 sides 20 odd 30mm boards SO with no problems, and have ripped (short sections) and crosscut ~80mm Mackay Cedar, and T Oak wo problems. Also means no overload problems running both saw and dusty at the same time. Dust extraction reasonable, given open construction, but it would be nice to have top extraction. A future mod perhaps?

Original blade, (40t GP) performs quite well. I also got a fine kerf CMT, which cuts exceptionally well for light work, but is a bit flexible for heavy ripping. Blade changes easy, except for the POC splitter/guard. Also could not align for the NK blade, so ran with the whole unit swung back.

All in all, I could not justify higher end purchase, given budget and intended use, but I am very happy to date, and would recommend to anyone in similar position. Certainly a quantum leap from my homebuilt saw table of the last 10 years.

regards

Finally got delivery of my ctj650 contractor saw. After a few nights putting it together I am very impressed with the overall quality especially considering the price. The saw is really solid, I think the solid cast heavy wings help, and it runs quietly with no vibration. I ended up buying a mobile base for it as I couldn't see myself dragging it around the workshop.

I agree with everything Alistair had to say about it. With the use of the grub screws to adjust the side wings (not mentioned in manual!) I got the whole tabletop spot on flat. There is one section on the main tabletop where it cups but probably less than the 0.5mm that Alistair had. The alignment of blade to mitre slot anf fence was spot on out of the box and thats measuring with vernier calipers. Blade was a perfect 90^ as was the fence. Mitre guage was a little loose in slot but I gave the sides a hit with a punch in a few spots and it sits really well now.

The rear cabineit plate is a pain...the instructions don't mention it then you get to the end and realise you have to unhitch the motor and belt to fit it. I'm not sure I'll bother after spending so much time adjusting the motor position to line up the 2 pulleys.

When I looked at the riving knife/guard fittings I quickly made the decision to not fit it and manufacure something myself. The guard fittings are so sloppy I reckon it would be more dangerous to have it on the machine. I'll get some metal plate and manufacture something to fit the blade guard from my old Triton compact saw table which worked well.

What did you end up doing Alistair?

I haven't given it a really good run due to no guard but I did rip some lengths of 50mm thick marri with no problems at all. I haven't hooked it up to the dust collector yet but given the bottom is closed in by the DC shute I reckon it should work quite well.

I'm sure the cabinet saws are really good but I am very happy with my purchase.

Garry

Originally Posted by plunger

Finally got delivery of my ctj650 contractor saw. After a few nights putting it together I am very impressed with the overall quality especially considering the price. The saw is really solid, I think the solid cast heavy wings help, and it runs quietly with no vibration. I ended up buying a mobile base for it as I couldn't see myself dragging it around the workshop.

I did the same, getting one of the kits, and building my own frame. Makes the whole thing more functional in my shed.

I agree with everything Alistair had to say about it. With the use of the grub screws to adjust the side wings (not mentioned in manual!) I got the whole tabletop spot on flat. There is one section on the main tabletop where it cups but probably less than the 0.5mm that Alistair had. The alignment of blade to mitre slot anf fence was spot on out of the box and thats measuring with vernier calipers. Blade was a perfect 90^ as was the fence. Mitre guage was a little loose in slot but I gave the sides a hit with a punch in a few spots and it sits really well now.

I still need to do this. Had forgotten the punch trick!

The rear cabineit plate is a pain...the instructions don't mention it then you get to the end and realise you have to unhitch the motor and belt to fit it. I'm not sure I'll bother after spending so much time adjusting the motor position to line up the 2 pulleys.

When I looked at the riving knife/guard fittings I quickly made the decision to not fit it and manufacure something myself. The guard fittings are so sloppy I reckon it would be more dangerous to have it on the machine. I'll get some metal plate and manufacture something to fit the blade guard from my old Triton compact saw table which worked well.

What did you end up doing Alistair?

For the moment, I have it in place when ripping, and swung back for sheet stuff, and the TK blade. I am less paranoid about it, having used an unguarded saw for years. I will set up a range of ZC inserts, with splitters, to suit various blades, in time. I would consider an overhead guard, but space in my shed, and need for mobility would be a problem.

I haven't given it a really good run due to no guard but I did rip some lengths of 50mm thick marri with no problems at all. I haven't hooked it up to the dust collector yet but given the bottom is closed in by the DC shute I reckon it should work quite well.

Only problem is a tendency for sawdust to "pack up" in the bottom of the cabinet. In due course, it is going to become a problem with the height/angle gear. I still need to clean off all the grease, and replace with wax. Will do it when it becomes a problem

I'm sure the cabinet saws are really good but I am very happy with my purchase.

Garry

Glad to see you are as happy with your purchase as I am.

regards

Hi Alastair,

I've managed to score a slightly used model from a cashed-up tradie (no offense tradies - but I am in WA) for $600. It's in excellent condition. The previous owner didn't give it much love so I'm in the process of giving a little clean and tune-up. Unfortunately he didn't have (lost) the manual and arbour spanners. Also it was missing the grub-screws for the extension wings for leveling them to the table. One rubber foot is missing and the fence is not riding well - maybe missing some UHMW pads maybe?

Anyways, through fear of having to wait months for Carbatec to order in some of the parts for me, specifically the grub-screws for the wings - would you know the size of these screws? I read in the forum that this model is just a Delta 36-650 and from that web-accessible manual, the arbour spanners are 7/8". Is this correct? ..the Delta doesn't have the cast wings...

Would really appreciate your help....

Cheers, Derek

Originally Posted by dpids

Hi Alastair,

I've managed to score a slightly used model from a cashed-up tradie (no offense tradies - but I am in WA) for $600. It's in excellent condition. The previous owner didn't give it much love so I'm in the process of giving a little clean and tune-up. Unfortunately he didn't have (lost) the manual and arbour spanners. Also it was missing the grub-screws for the extension wings for leveling them to the table. One rubber foot is missing and the fence is not riding well - maybe missing some UHMW pads maybe?

Anyways, through fear of having to wait months for Carbatec to order in some of the parts for me, specifically the grub-screws for the wings - would you know the size of these screws? I read in the forum that this model is just a Delta 36-650 and from that web-accessible manual, the arbour spanners are 7/8". Is this correct? ..the Delta doesn't have the cast wings...

Would really appreciate your help....

Cheers, Derek

Hi Derek,

Been away on holidays, just back.

I'll check my arbour spanners, and let you know. I'll have a crack at the grub screws, but as they are short, I may not be able to be 100% sure of the thread.
If I can find my manual, I'll look at scanning it for you.

Originally Posted by Alastair

Hi Derek,

Been away on holidays, just back.

I'll check my arbour spanners, and let you know. I'll have a crack at the grub screws, but as they are short, I may not be able to be 100% sure of the thread.
If I can find my manual, I'll look at scanning it for you.

Hi Alistair,

Holidays - lucky bugger!! ...yeah would really appreciate the manual if you get the opportunity.
Found that the arbour nut needs a 15/16" spanner but still don't know about the shaft spanner size. It is clearly less (about 22mm) but I doubt the manual will even state the size. I reckon I'll just make one or use my plunge router spanner that's 24mm - just enough to tighten the nut. It doesn't need to be sinched down too much anyway. ....clearly can't trust the Delta manual. I also found that the grub screws are 8mm. The shortest I could get was about 1/2" and they do protrude a bit too much as they interfere with the extension wing bolts for adjustment. The Delta manuals I've looked at don't even use the grub screws for the wings - just shim them I guess. Almost seems easier than fiddlin' around with the screws!

Going to get a PowerTwist link V-belt for it too as the belt seems too long or stretched. Have you tried this type of belt with it?

Anyways, appreciate your help with the manual.

Cheers, Derek

Hi Derek,

I'll look at it this week or w/e.

I am still using the original chinglish belt, so no comment.

Do gat some vibration from the belt, tho', so have been thinking of changing it,

regards

Originally Posted by plunger

I ended up getting a Carbatec CTJ650 contracor saw. Just couldn't justify the extra money for a cabinet saw. (hope I don't regret it down the track) The cheapest Carbatec cabinet saw was over $1500. Cost me $910 and spent another $110 on an 80 tooth CMT blade. The top and side wings are all cast and quite solid. Apparently they don't run as quiet as the cabinet saws due to the motor hanging off the belt but I might get a good quality seamless V-belt and try to stabilise the motor a bit. The guy who showed me the machines was really good....honest about some minor drawbacks in the saw but convinced me it would do the job .

I'm pretty sure it will do a lot better job than the Triton compact saw table I have been using for the last 6 years. Mind you I've made plenty of stuff with it so can't complain.

I didn't get to see the Hafco saws and wasn't willing to buy without seeing one.

Just waiting on delivery and after it's setup I'll let you know how it performs.

I have noticed that some of the contractor saws have far better dust extraction than most cabinet saws in that they often have a shroud around the blade leading to a dust chute. They therefore don't need dusties with the power of Hurricane Katrina to keep things clean.
I was wondering whether the one you bought has such a setup on it?

Originally Posted by TP1

I have noticed that some of the contractor saws have far better dust extraction than most cabinet saws in that they often have a shroud around the blade leading to a dust chute. They therefore don't need dusties with the power of Hurricane Katrina to keep things clean.
I was wondering whether the one you bought has such a setup on it?

No shroud on mine.

Dust port is on bottom of "box" directly below blade. While interior and workings remain clear, with my small dusty, only issue is the lack of "fall" around the port. I get a buildup of sawdust at "angle of repose" around the port.
This is not a problem, as has no effect on performance. Ocassionally, when changing blades, I will stick my hand down, and scrape the buildup into the port.

regards

Right,

Some of the info:

Among the pack of spanners (and I received a whole bunch of freebie duplicates)

One flat, (presumably arbour) which is ~22mm; I would assume this translates to 7/8" as caliper gave 0.865"

One with angled head, for arbour nut, ~25mm, (or 1" I assume.)

Hope this helps.

Have located manual, and hopefully I can scan this week.

regards

Hi Alistair,

Thanks for the info.

Another update: I bought a Fenner PowerTwist Plus V-link belt from Blackwoods. It cost $92 - ouch !!! and they only sell them in min. 5 foot packs. Worth the money though I reckon so far as now there is very little vibration and saw runs much quieter. Its nice just to hear the blades wurring as the teeth cut the air. ...I reckon its also running faster too..

Cheers, Derek