Thread: Tablesaw Blade alignment

Check the inner collar isn’t sitting up on the shoulder of the shaft make sure it’s seating against the shoulder correctly. If you spin the blade by hand, if it wobbles it will be something in the collars, but if it runs true but stays out of parallel, then the shaft has moved somehow or somewhere. With cold weather sometimes steel parts can contract and loosen up. I’ve seen the pillow blocks on a shaft move when timber was jammed against the blade while it was running and the motor pulled the belts so hard it moved the shaft.

That looks like an MBS 300, which is a true cabinet saw ie. the workings are mounted in the cabinet and the table is dropped on top. To bring the blade and mitre slots back in to alignment you move the table on its mountings on the cabinet. That's assuming there is nothing else that has contributed to the problem as riverbuilder has suggested.

Thanks guys.
I moved from Newcastle to Coffs Harbour in March and my machines suffered a bit with less than perfect transport.

The saw was fine until yesterday but something must be a bit loose.

Moving the top sounds better than moving the mountings on the motor.

I will have a look today and see what I can do. There appears to be four large bolts that secure the top. Hopefully I can loosen them and tap the top back into place.

Cheers

I might need a bigger hammer?

There are 4 bolts holding the top.

I loosened 3 and tapped the top with a deadblow mallet. No movement.

Hitting harder didn't help so I undid the fourth bolt.
Still no movement.

I gave everything a squirt with WD40 and hammered the bolt points thinking they may be rusted together.
Still no movement.

It looks easy on Youtube.

Any suggestions?

I seem to remember reading about someone having a similar problem and it turned out there was another not obvious grub screw near the front edge of the table that needed releasing as well before the top would move.

See these two threads, they might help.
Calling All Carbatec TS-C250P Owners!
Stuck cast iron top on carbatec ts-c250p

I took the advice and loosened two grub screws.

I noticed that the blade would kick sideways when I started to raise the blade.

My thought was that there was something obstructing the mechanise. Maybe a stray off-cut.

After removing the top I found two serious cracks through the cast iron frame. The screwdriver points to the cracks.

I assume it is fatigue. The machine has done some heavy duty work on plenty of thick hardwoods over its 12 years.

Is it practical to get it welded?
The chance of finding a replacement is probably slim.

Or is it time to find a replacement?

Bummer. That is probably cast iron. I'm far from an expert but I suspect that it will be difficult to weld that and gain sufficient strength in the weld to be able to withstand the stresses imposed on it. Happy to be corrected on this though. Trupro still market these saws so it may be a good idea to message them and include a picture to see if they can help you. I've always found the Taiwanese excellent to deal with when it comes to after sales service, so you never know.

TRUPRO-TEC Industrial Co., Ltd.

Not familiar with your brand. My saw has 4 bolts that hold the framework for the saw blade and it can be moved a little for fine adjustments. It looks like another hairline crack on the left too.
Not sure that welding would restore its accuracy even if the weld is strong enough.
My opinion.
Without a genuine replacement part I would call it unsafe to use and not take any chances.

Bet you don’t hit a cast iron machine part with a hammer ever again

Originally Posted by Scally

After removing the top I found two serious cracks through the cast iron frame. The screwdriver points to the cracks.

I assume it is fatigue. The machine has done some heavy duty work on plenty of thick hardwoods over its 12 years.

Is it practical to get it welded?
The chance of finding a replacement is probably slim.

Or is it time to find a replacement?

Welding cast iron is doable, BUT the person doing the welding has to know what they are doing when it comes to pre-heating and cooling down the weld. Once welded the part should be like new.
The cracks can also be brazed, but again the pre-heating and cooling stages are critical

Your challenge will be finding a person who really knows what they are doing.



Time to find a replacement saw?
Only you can decide this. If it were me I'd first investigate repairing the cracked part.
Next I'd look at the cost of a slider -- SCMS, Felder, Hammer -- and, after chocking on the price, look at getting the cast iron part welded properly.

Thinking further on this. If your saw is the same basic beast as the MBS300 (there's also an MBS250 model if your saw is 10") Gregory Machinery might be able to help.

Thanks Guys.

I rang Major, where I bought the saw. Ryan was very helpful as usual.

He is checking on parts for the BSB250 and suggested a part might be $300 with $200 for freight , plus GST. It could take 6-8 weeks for delivery.

This is probably my best option if it works out.

I am hesitant about welding the parts because of the potential problems you have mentioned. I don't know any local business that could do the welding so don't have any reference to give me confidence.

It looks like a full pull-down but hopefully not too challenging?

Replacement is still an option but the rest of the saw seems to be in good condition.

That sounds pretty steep to me. Still reckon it's worth contacting Trupro direct.