Thread: Worth of an older Table Saw

Riving knife? Guards? Fence? Blades? Inserts? Arbor bushes?

Would be hard to use timber would keep falling off.

It's a contractor style saw that I think is very much past its reasonable design date. I see these listed on gumtree for between $400 and $800 irrespective of condition. They seem to sell. A new one with a better fence, splitter, guards and warranty are around $1300 at Hare and Forbes.

I bought one 2nd hand for $100 a few years ago. It was my first table saw and now I know how to use a TS I believe I paid about the right price, mind you a new motor for one if it is old and close to burning out will cost north of $300.

That's pretty much the same as my saw. You'll find the fence is a complete piece of crap and will need to be replaced. If the saw is like mine there will be no riving knife and the standard splitter is such a nuisance that I haven't had it fitted for a looong time, zero clearance throat plates with a small guide splitter set into the saw kerf seem to work well for me. For more information see this thread - Parts for Woodman Table Saw

I paid $600 for the basic saw about 20 years ago. Considering the lack of more modern safety features and the dud fence I wouldn't consider it to be worth more than $300, but as Fuzzie has noted they all seem to sell if priced in the $400 to $800 range. Unless it's really cheap I'd be looking out for something better.

Here's your pic the right way up.

The fence attaches via the front and back rails which are shown. Ask if it includes the fence.
The splitter is built into the blade guard and attaches to a rod at the back of the saw, which does not rise and fall with the blade.
It is likely a 12 inch blade.
I have had mine since the 1990's and it is still going strong
Tom

I too have a similar saw but 10" rather than 12". 3hp motor and badged a Sher. I am in in the habit of checking fence (align-a-rip) at both front and rear of blade but it is usually parallel. It will comfortably run a dado stack, but not with all the blades at once (arbor too short). Bought it 15 years ago from a mate for $200. Not the best for dust extraction and I use zero clearance inserts, so splitter/gaurd combo not really used ever. Overall I have been really happy with it.

Thanks guys - all good and useful info.
If it’s cheap enough, it will probably suit me to make a start in the Table Saw use world.
With an intention to know more when I upgrade. - I’ve been going around in circles - starting at $1800 “Fusion1” level saws, then deciding a few $100 more would be worth it, till I end up about to buy a $4500 Harvey Dovetail (Still disappointingly a Chinese machine)

This comes with the fence that clamps on the rails (haven’t checked and “squareness” yet)
The splitter and guard.
Pretty basic mitre guide.
Has an arbour bush to allow the current blade to fit the shaft.


Q’s:
1. The pictured is a “splitter”, rather than a “Riving Knife”? Correct?
What’s the difference, and the advantages of the RK - saws I’ve been drooling over come with standard and “low profile” Riving Knives.
2. Are the machines grooves any sort of standard? - If I build a nice sled, will it likely work on a newer saw? (Probably just have to change the slides?)
3. Can I make “Zero clearance” throat plate from ply? Aluminium? - this would be better? Safer?

Thanks again -I’m new at some of this and appreciate the help.9DC073D4-43E8-4934-A4C9-E2F8FD7FB522.jpeg

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No Idea why the pics are sideways - Apple?!

The splitter on that is similar to the one on my old Delta. It is a pain to take on and off but if you get that saw I would encourage you to use it when possible. Newer saws have a lo profile riving knife that rises and falls with the blade so you just leave it there for everything.
The table slots will be standard so no problems getting a miter gauge or adding a sled. Just build a basic sled thats accurate at 90*. It likely will not fit any other saw later on. Slots different distance from blade and stuff.
I have made ply zero clearance plates for mine. Plenty online info on making them.
Regards
John

Just buy a sliding table panel saw if you have the room, better, safer, more accurate, and far more versatile.

Is it safe to assume you've seen this thread? Parts for Woodman Table Saw
Basically the same saw.

Originally Posted by riverbuilder

Just buy a sliding table panel saw if you have the room, better, safer, more accurate, and far more versatile.

I get this advice pretty often.
I have easy access to a commercial sliding panel saw when required.
I also utilise my Makita Rail saw for some sheets.

I just want a nice, accurate table saw.
I’m not completely sure how much, and what I’ll use it for - but it seems I’m always needing something cut square, or “the same” - so I think I’ll use it a bit.

I’m hoping the above saw will be an interim fix, and I’ll know if I need a $2K saw, or a $4K saw.


That said - setting the splitter up - it seems pretty crude. And the attached blade guard - unusable. (It would be barely usable, if it didn’t have a moulded “divot” that catches on the job.)


Love the 12” blade poking up - looks like something off Mad Max, and something that couldn’t be legal!!