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  1. #16
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    Oct 2005
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    North Balwyn Victoria
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    IMG_0215.jpgHi Owen, I also have the C26 & also find the slivers a right pain!! You would also need to be a Chinese gymnast to get under the table & this thread got me thinking. So, I taped some 3mm vinyl to the angled infill plate (see pic). The 3mm just sneaks under the slider & meets the blade at table height. Obviously, this will only give zero clearance on the slider side of the blade & won't account for angled cuts. This cobbled solution will do for now, but Derek has inspired me & I am going to make an improved version from 3mm aluminium plate screwed to the infill plate & will post.
    Don't want to hijack the thread, but I HATE THE BLOODY FENCE & am looking to build a dedicated rip fence from aluminium profile & leave the long extrusion for the planer only.

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  3. #17
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    Jun 2005
    Location
    Helensburgh
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    I have been wondering about the need to change the insert for a 45 degree cut. I want to be able to lift the ZCI in and out and not have to deal with the holding screws. What do others think about using rare earth magnets instead of screws with location pins where the screws are. The ZCI can't move laterally into the blade and it can't lift in use when timber is on top of it. Have I missed anything as I don't feel the need to have a blade collision if I have.
    CHRIS

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
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    10,810

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    Chris, that is an interesting idea. I would be interested in doing this to mine as it is a pain in the watsit to swap over inserts.

    I'll graciously allow you to lead the way

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    Ferny Hills
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    78
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    94

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    Thanks for your thoughts Repete, i have found my temporary solution works for me, so until i see a better idea i am watching and waiting. Why do you hate the fence? Owen

  6. #20
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    Aug 2016
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    Thanks Chris for the idea about magnets and locating pins, better than having to remove and replace the bolts underneath the table top. Owen

  7. #21
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    Jun 2005
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    Helensburgh
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    Quote Originally Posted by derekcohen View Post
    Chris, that is an interesting idea. I would be interested in doing this to mine as it is a pain in the watsit to swap over inserts.

    I'll graciously allow you to lead the way

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Gee thanks, no sense of adventure, I will let you know what happens. I might defer to caution and use a conventional blade.
    CHRIS

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Redlands area, Brisbane
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    1,489

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    I like the idea of the magnets but I still think I would like something mechanical holding this down; at least at the back of insert.

    I'm following this with interest because I would like to do something similar with my CU300.

  9. #23
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    Oct 2005
    Location
    North Balwyn Victoria
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    72
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    520

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    IMG_6677.jpg

    Hi Owen, this is the underside of the cut & I'm happy with the finish for a quick solution.The fence has two problems for me. First is the change over from ripping to planing. I have removed the fence roll pins so that I only have rotate the fence from ripping to planing (I only use the low fence setting when ripping). The second problem is that I find the fence too long when ripping & I would have preferred a shorter section of the extrusion was supplied with the machine for ripping. I will document the mod I propose. Peter

  10. #24
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    Jun 2005
    Location
    Helensburgh
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    Quote Originally Posted by markharrison View Post
    I like the idea of the magnets but I still think I would like something mechanical holding this down; at least at the back of insert.

    I'm following this with interest because I would like to do something similar with my CU300.
    I would like to know your thinking before I do something I might regret. I can't see any problems but others might.
    CHRIS

  11. #25
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Redlands area, Brisbane
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    1,489

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    I'm thinking along the lines of a clip that is fastened to the underside of the ZCI that extends under the table thereby preventing the blade from lifting the ZCI when the blade it is spinning. You see this in ZCI for regular table saws in articles.

    Here is one I found on the internet:



    A couple of other technique questions come to mind as well, creating the slots for the riving knife and the scoring blade. I guess they are not too critical and could be cut by hand

  12. #26
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    Jun 2005
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    Helensburgh
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    The underside clip is another good thought but I can't see why it is needed TTTT. The blade on its own won't contact the ZCI after the initial cut during which it would be mechanically held down and when cutting timber it is held down mechanically any way. The underside clip leads to another thought, the side of the ZCI that is in contact with the cast iron top could have a longer one that holds that edge along its length. On the K3 that would mean a segmented hold down as the bracket​the ZCI screws to would prevent a one piece clip/bracket along it's length. By winding the blade right down it could be removed very quickly.
    CHRIS

  13. #27
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
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    Ferny Hills
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    Hi Repete, After seeing your idea i had another look and decided to utilize the angled infill plate but from underneath. The pic shows a 6mm ply ZCI which i double sided taped under the angled infill plate. As it is there is not enough left on the right side of the blade so to make it more effective, especially with the riving knife installed i will have remove the black plastic insert and extend the ZCI to replace it. Owen
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  14. #28
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    North Balwyn Victoria
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    72
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    520

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    I got hooked up on the 45 degree cut with the ZCI mounted underneath as it presents blade height problems & fouling of the under bench dust guard. If we accept that 99.9% of cuts are at 90 degrees, it is a solution. I like your idea of removing the existing insert to get support either side of the blade. Hope we get there, as ZCI should be a priority for SCM. As An aside, Gabbett are not user friendly to hobbyists.

  15. #29
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Drouin Vic.
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    166

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    Hi WoodyOwen,
    I have just made the final unit using std aluminium 32x20x3mm angle. This is better as the 20mm angle piece beside the blade gives the new one piece assembly more strength with the 315mm blade. Although the face screws in the top hold it down I also tapped and added two 3mm cs screws at each end of the side.
    Cheers,
    Paintman
    Attached Images Attached Images

  16. #30
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    Helensburgh
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    Good job there Paint man. I wonder why it needs so many screws to hold it down, surely two would be enough and reduce the changeover time. The K3 is the same BTW so I think two screws might be left out. I recently began using a Dado set and the insert needs changing more often because of it.
    CHRIS

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