Thread: Zero Clearance Inserts

I had the same issue with my JET saw...just remembered how I got around it.

I make the new zero clearance insert from 12mm birch ply. First stick the slightly oversized ply to the top of your factory-supplied metal insert using double-sided tape. I find the carpet tape at Bunnies is good - don't use too much or you'll never get it off. I then use a bearing-guided flush trim bit to shape the edge of the ply to exactly match the metal insert it is stuck to.

Once you have the shape, place your metal insert back into the saw with the new ply insert still stuck to the top of it. You will now have no trouble bringing the blade up through the metal insert and through the ply insert as well. Once you have made the cut, switch off (!), remove and separate the inserts, and you have a new ply zero clearance insert.

An additional step for my JET saw is to reduce the thickness of the ply around the edge gradually on the router table until the new insert sits flush with the table, and I also drill holes around the edge to insert grub screws for fine adjustment. There are lots of ways to hold the new zero clearance insert in place, but I drill a shallow hole with a Forstner to take a small rare-earth magnet epoxied in place. You only really need this on the far edge of your insert where the sawblade is trying to lift it. The magnet is re-usable; when my zero clearance insert is chewed up and needs replacing, I just hack out the rare-earth magnet, remove the grub screws, and use these parts when I make the new insert.

I make one flat insert (i.e. without a splitter) to use for shallow trenching cuts, but have another with a "stub" splitter for regular ripping work. This splitter is only about 3/4" high, usually made of timber, and accurately aligned with the blade cut in the insert. Hope this helps.

"Once you have the shape, place your metal insert back into the saw with the new ply insert still stuck to the top of it. You will now have no trouble bringing the blade up through the metal insert and through the ply insert as well. Once you have made the cut, switch off (!), remove and separate the inserts, and you have a new ply zero clearance insert"

Of course!!!!! So simple. Funny how we cant see the wood for the trees sometimes.

Thanks heaps, thats the perfect solution.

Thank you for the tip.

I have a H&F SB-12 arriving today, and a zero clearance insert is on the list.

I have the same saw and had the same issue,all I did was reduce the thickness by about half along the centre of the insert where the blade will come up,locked down the insert with the fence then raised the blade.
I used 12mm ply.To make the insert level with the table top I used button head screws to adjust the height,worked well,then a small nail in the back end to fit in the hole there just like the metal insert.