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  1. #1
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    Default A3-31 roller adjustment thicknesser mode

    Having some issues with lack of ejection of the piece after leaving the serrated metal input roller and have had some issues in the past with snipe. I have waxed the bed and that certainly helps but does not sort the problem completely.

    Does this simply mean I need to tension the rubber output roller.

    OR is there a situation where I need to adjust the roller downwards.

    does snipe equate to too much or too little tension or is it not that simple?

    What are the rules regarding too much too little tension and roller positioning?

    all thoughs appreciated
    Mat

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  3. #2
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    Hi Mat,

    With respect to the ejection, have you confirmed that you've got the power rollers engaged correctly with the lever, and that the belt isn't slipping?

    As for the snipe issue, I assume you've seen these articles?

    Hammer A3-31 - Help me eliminate snipe (sawmillcreek.org)
    and from my blog...
    Removing snipe on my Hammer A3-31 whilst thicknessing. – Lance's Workbench (conryclan.com)

  4. #3
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    Thanks Lance
    Yes I have seen those before. Rollers are definitely engaged and no belt slippage. I am particularly interested in the ejection issue.

    Do you think that snipe,when it relates to the rollers, is always too much tension? How do work out infeed vs outfeed tension?

  5. #4
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    I don't think it's always too much tension, but I think I now have a better idea of how too much tension causes snipe. Because the base is supported on a single column, if there's too much tension it presses the base out of plane when only one roller is engaged.

    Having too much tension could also be the cause of the wood not ejecting properly if the downward pressure causes greater friction on the base than what the rollers can overcome.

    I would suggest you try adjusting the tension. It really is a very simple operation, and as long as you make adjustments in a controlled manner, recording what you're doing, you can always get back to the starting point, so you won't be any worse off.

  6. #5
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    Felder has a bunch of machine adjustment videos on their website. I think this gets covered on one of them.
    It's all part of the service here at The House of Pain™

  7. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by mat View Post
    Having some issues with lack of ejection of the piece after leaving the serrated metal input roller and have had some issues in the past with snipe.
    The only time I get the input roller print on my A3-31 is when it doesn't actually take anything off the timber, and this is also the time when it may not eject properly. Otherwise I can take 0.2mm off and all is good. IIRC, it only happens with softwood.

    WRT to snipe: I do sometimes get a bit and I've found that a little upward pressure on the forward end of the timber will obviate it. How much pressure? You'll find the zone with practice.
    Regards, FenceFurniture

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  8. #7
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    All the videos I have seen show you how to do it but what I really need is when to do what to what roller. Lack of ejection by the outfeed roller - does this mean I need to increase the spring tension and in what increments. Does increasing tension increase snipe?? Is it all a compromise??

    A step by step on adjusting rollers would be great. Probably adjust height first (what level??) then what? Input first/output first whne do you stop adjusting?





    Quote Originally Posted by Greg Q View Post
    Felder has a bunch of machine adjustment videos on their website. I think this gets covered on one of them.

  9. #8
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    I wondered how much the Canberra cold might be effecting the output roller. On closer inspection I see it is a metal roller not rubber as I previously stated.

  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by mat View Post
    A step by step on adjusting rollers would be great. Probably adjust height first (what level??) then what? Input first/output first when do you stop adjusting?
    Matt,

    If you want a methodical approach to start from scratch, the steps below should get you set up. Perhaps wait a day or so though to see if anyone can identify problems with the methodology before going ahead.

    Try this procedure:
    1. Reduce all the rollers by a large margin. At this point, there should not be enough tension on the rollers to feed a piece of timber through.
    2. Gradually increase the tension of the input feed roller until it feeds in reliably. It should now feed in fine, but stall when feeding out.
    3. Gradually increase the tension on the output feed roller until it ejects reliably.
    4. At this point, you have the minimum required tension on both rollers to correctly feed the timber.
    5. If you are getting snipe on the leading edge of the wood, increase the infeed roller tension until it no longer produces snipe.
    6. If you are getting snipe on the tail edge of the wood, increase the outfeed roller tension until it no longer produces snipe.

    Some tips:
    - Do you testing on a 100 mm+ piece of timber so that you don't need to wind the table up and down too far between each adjustment and test.
    - When testing for snipe, if you get snipe, don't flip the timber over for your next attempt as it will mirror the snipe onto the other side. You really need a flat piece of stock for each snipe test.

  11. #10
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    Thanks Lance
    Thats fantastic. I presume you suggest leaving the roller heights as is.

    Mat

    Quote Originally Posted by LanceC View Post
    Matt,

    If you want a methodical approach to start from scratch, the steps below should get you set up. Perhaps wait a day or so though to see if anyone can identify problems with the methodology before going ahead.

    Try this procedure:
    1. Reduce all the rollers by a large margin. At this point, there should not be enough tension on the rollers to feed a piece of timber through.
    2. Gradually increase the tension of the input feed roller until it feeds in reliably. It should now feed in fine, but stall when feeding out.
    3. Gradually increase the tension on the output feed roller until it ejects reliably.
    4. At this point, you have the minimum required tension on both rollers to correctly feed the timber.
    5. If you are getting snipe on the leading edge of the wood, increase the infeed roller tension until it no longer produces snipe.
    6. If you are getting snipe on the tail edge of the wood, increase the outfeed roller tension until it no longer produces snipe.

    Some tips:
    - Do you testing on a 100 mm+ piece of timber so that you don't need to wind the table up and down too far between each adjustment and test.
    - When testing for snipe, if you get snipe, don't flip the timber over for your next attempt as it will mirror the snipe onto the other side. You really need a flat piece of stock for each snipe test.

  12. #11
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    Lance

    What increment do you suggest between tests?

  13. #12
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    Yes, leave the height as it is.

    As for adjustment, I would imagine that somewhere between four and eight throws of a spanner will be granular enough.

  14. #13
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    Mat , have you got the manual for your machine? Before I go looking I have the C3-31 manual which is the same planer/jointer so I can prob find some info if you want? If so PM your email so I can send photos of pages if any.

    Felder said once I rang them about feed troubles that I should clean all old shyte off with acetone and then re-wax. And I’ve found some woods need waxing the table frequently.

    i reduce snipe by holding up plank on its way out.
    "World's oldest kid"

  15. #14
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    The manual for the A3 A3-31 Hammer Manual (woodworkforums.com)

    I am pretty sure that a supplementary manual from Felder USA was posted on Saw Mill Creek forum some years ago addressing roller specs and I thought I had it but apparently not but Lance may recall it.

    Hammer A3-31 Hinge side adjustment - Page 2 (sawmillcreek.org) This is a link to adjusting the tables in jointer mode, I will add more to this post if needed.

    Here is the video which I am only putting here for future reference adjusting feed roller on A3-31 Hammer - Google Search

    I have never had snipe problems and my machine has been pulled apart to get the planer table out of it to fit a raise and lower motor and we then had to get it back to spec which was a bit of a mission.
    CHRIS

  16. #15
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    I have managed to get good feed with no snipe using Lance's instructions. Interesting that snipe can be eliminated by both increasing and decreasing pressure!

    I guess the next question is how often is re-waxing requiried?

    Quote Originally Posted by AndrewPatrol View Post
    Mat , have you got the manual for your machine? Before I go looking I have the C3-31 manual which is the same planer/jointer so I can prob find some info if you want? If so PM your email so I can send photos of pages if any.

    Felder said once I rang them about feed troubles that I should clean all old shyte off with acetone and then re-wax. And I’ve found some woods need waxing the table frequently.

    i reduce snipe by holding up plank on its way out.

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