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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
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    Melbourne
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    Default Advice on cheap thicknesser please

    Hello, so i have this brilliant idea re my grey old tired Merbau decking

    for one it was laid years ago with the grooves down and also fixed with a nail gun, kind of makes sanding it back to the red colour a hard task, re nails etc
    quite a few sections I've removed to make way for a spa so I'm thinking, fork out for a thicknesser, approx $500 and at my leisure run them through a couple of times then re-fix smooth side up with S/S screws

    so what brand thicknesser can you recommend please?
    thought Bunnings would be the go especially if it doesn’t work and I can probably return it
    they stock Ryobi and Ozito but I see there are others out there around a similar price

    suggestions appreciated

    I contacted our local timber yard [Burwood Vic] and they didn’t want a bar of it because of the nail risk, also for me to pay someone to thickness I need to pull up the whole deck at once and transport it, not going to get much change from $500 anyway

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Sydney
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    98

    Default

    I've never owned a thicknesser, but putting nails through will undoubtedly put chips in its blades. Will you be using this for anything else after the decking?

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Melbourne
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    I'm with JPA, the first nails that go through will ruin the blades, then you're up for a new set and so the saga will continue. For the $500 you want to spend on a thicknesser, how much new timber will you get?

    Regards,

    Rob

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Brisbane
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    1,156

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    My first thought would be to hire a floor sander and edger, sand it down, punch down and fill any visible nails and then oil. Should be a whole heap easier and quicker than pulling it all up, thicknessing and then laying it again. Be cheaper too. I sanded interior floorboards for the entire house in the last place we lived, and those sanders don't mind doing nails at all.
    The other day I described to my daughter how to find something in the garage by saying "It's right near my big saw". A few minutes later she came back to ask: "Do you mean the black one, the green one, or the blue one?".

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    East Warburton, Vic
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    54
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    14,189

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by JPA View Post
    I've never owned a thicknesser, but putting nails through will undoubtedly put chips in its blades. Will you be using this for anything else after the decking?
    Quote Originally Posted by LGS View Post
    I'm with JPA, the first nails that go through will ruin the blades, then you're up for a new set and so the saga will continue. For the $500 you want to spend on a thicknesser, how much new timber will you get?

    Regards,

    Rob
    He says he'll be pulling the deck up and relaying with screws, so you'd assume the nails have been removed, wouldn't you think.

    Lots of timber yards won't touch secondhand timber due to nail risk but if he is vigilant with his nail removing, he should be able to do his whole deck without hitting a nail.
    Cheers

    DJ


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  7. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
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    blue mountains
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    Seems like a whole lot of work to ruin a thicknesser
    I like the floor sander idea as I tend to go for the easiest option.
    Regards
    John

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Normanhurst NSW 2076
    Age
    81
    Posts
    484

    Default thicknessers

    Hellop buck naked,
    Just an observation that might be helpful. I have found that the purchase of a metal detector (probably less than $50) is a very
    wise investment. Remove them all and then check with the detector. It is amazing how easy it is to miss one or two. That way you can
    be certain that they are nail free before you put them thru the planer. Drillit.

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    6

    Default

    thanks for the replies
    well yes, I would be taking great pains to make sure all my nails were removed. as I mentioned I've already pulled maybe 30% up just to install the spa.
    also I mentioned they we laid ridge side up which means I would have to sand all of that out, probably not as much work as it sounds as those floor sanders take off quite a bit of surface. I was told by someone [tool dude from Bunning's] that people who hire the floor sanders are always back 30 minutes later buying more sand paper as they have torn them up with nails

    it’s one of those jobs, both options seem like a similar amount of work in my mind, the floor sanders for a start require a certain amount of technique to not make a dogs breakfast of it, sanding hollows into it for example, only getting so close to the edges without then reverting to a belt sander as it is walled on 3 sides
    also I would have to do the lot in a weekend whereas the thicknesser I could attack in stages

    my main concern is that the $450 - $500 thicknessers would be man enough for the job, and in answer to the question, after this I probably won't thickness again in my lifetime
    thanks for the replies
    well yes, I would be taking great pains to make sure all my nails were removed. as I mentioned I've already pulled maybe 30% up just to install the spa.
    also I mentioned they we laid ridge side up which means I would have to sand all of that out, probably not as much work as it sounds as those floor sanders take off quite a bit of surface. I was told by someone [tool dude from Bunning's] that people who hire the floor sanders are always back 30 minutes later buying more sand paper as they have torn them up with nails

    it’s one of those jobs, both options seem like a similar amount of work in my mind, the floor sanders for a start require a certain amount of technique to not make a dogs breakfast of it, sanding hollows into it for example, only getting so close to the edges without then reverting to a belt sander as it is walled on 3 sides
    also I would have to do the lot in a weekend whereas the thicknesser I could attack in stages

    my main concern is that the $450 - $500 thicknessers would be man enough for the job, and in answer to the question, after this I probably won't thickness again in my lifetime

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    2,178

    Default

    Well then,
    I would suggest the "909" thicknesser option from Masters. It's really a GMC in "909" clothing, costs about $300 and will do what you want. You may even be able to recoup a hundred bucks or so at the end of the project! '

    This is it. here!

    Regards,

    Rob

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Albury Well Just Outside
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    13,315

    Default

    There is a similar thread regarding flooring on this site.

    https://www.woodworkforums.com/f213/flooring-top-160500/

    Going to be used for a different purpose to what you are after but might be worth a read.

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    back in Alberta for a while
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    68
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    12,006

    Default

    I think I'd be buying new decking

    the grain in the old deck will be full of dirt which will blunt and ruin a set of blades nearly as fast as an errant nail or two
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    4,969

    Default

    If the deck was laid the wrong way, with grooves up, they will be full of all sorts of rubbish that will blunt knives very quickly, so add in the time to wire brush out all the grooves (and you may still catch nasty stuff). Nothing has been mentioned of your final thickness. You need to consider the span between joists and the minimum allowable thickness of deck board for the span. And have you checked the boards for rot over the joists? And how will you keep track of the layout so you can put it back down the same way? And if you're not worried about that you'll have nail holes not lining up with joists and a lot of time spent fitting the jigsaw back together. And...

    I think you'd be better buying a floor punch, punch the nails and sand it, if you're satisfied the final thickness is OK and the boards are sound...

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
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    Default

    Sounds to me he will be running the thicknesser over the flat (previously down) side. A couple of passes should do it, I have done something similar and it worked fine. Although I'd be more inclined to lift, relay, then sand with a flooring sander myself.

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    6

    Default

    aarrgg what to do????
    this weekend I’m going to pull some of the nails from the deck I have already lifted, being nasty little nail gun nails, I’m not sure how easily they will remove. That will put the thicknesser idea to rest if I have trouble removing them.
    I will also do a proper measure and price to replace, approx area is 7m long x 10m wide
    As for matching the nail holes it didn’t really bother me that much but it is something to think about, I'm sure when it’s all re-laid and oiled the holes will be annoying

  16. #15
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Mount Colah
    Posts
    140

    Default Advice on cheap thicknesser please

    Have you thought about buying a wide belt sanding machine? Rather like a thicknesser but with a sanding belt/ roller instead of blades.

    When I used to make floor boards from reclaimed material, they were run through the sander rather than the thicknesser. Nails and ingrained dirt are less of an issue, but they are a bit slower.

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