Thread: Bent Fence!

Here is a link for the manual for your machine. The Axminster machine (AW106PT2) is pretty much identical to the Sherwood.

http://www.axminster.co.uk/downloads/600818_manual.pdf

Much obliged for the link. I have been looking quite a bit, not knowing that the Axminster may well be exactly the same. (never heard of it is what I should say)

Just had a quick look. Not _that_ helpful, except maybe for spare parts.

But I have to have that optional attachment.............what is it?

Originally Posted by REALOldNick

Just had a quick look. Not _that_ helpful, except maybe for spare parts.

But I have to have that optional attachment.............what is it?

It looks like it's a morticing attachment. This is often supplied with the bigger machines but I haven't seen one with machines like yours from Timbecon (Sherwood) or Carbatec.

HUH! Checked it out and yeah it seems common practice. I never would have associated mortising with a planer. But thanks for the info. It certainly does not look like anything to do with planing.

OK. Mercy time again.

I used an outfeed-based blade setting. I did this on the basis that the table is everything when it comes to setting the blades. I was concerned that a small part of the cutter bar may be high or low, and the blades therefore may not sit even with the tables.

I got everything nice and straight and even and worked out a system that seemed to allow the heights to match OK for each blade.

Then I tried to do some thicknessing..and found I had set the blades too high and the rollers were not working well enough. It will roll IN (naturally....pre planing) but not out.

The manual mentions only the proprietary system, which I have to say has the big advantage that there is a piece of aluminium between your fingers and the blades. I do not have the required unit though (maybe I should rephrase that). Timbecon sell one for $90 (!!) and I would even look at that if it dead-set worked.

So should I use a cutter bar-based system, or is there a way to use a feed based system that will give you correct height?

Help

Nick

I take it you are trying to set the jointer knives? If so, there are a number of good threads on the forums for this, one such one is below:

https://www.woodworkforums.com/f154/b...-knives-48362/

I tried the jigs from Carbatec and IMO, they can create as many problems as they solve.

Your jointer/planer has adjustments for everything so you can get the in-feed and out-feed tables matching exactly as a precursor to setting the knives. Given the past use of the machine, i would think that if you are going to the trouble of setting the knives, you should think about putting a new set in. The process of setting can be a PIA, and the less number of times you need to do it, they happier you will be.

Thanks for the link. I will dl and check out those videos. I have to be careful: limited download room. Videos can really chew it up.

Hmmm...that's why I said I would pony up for the doodads.....if they worked.

I did check the tables for flat and even along and across faces, rocking a straight edge and very gradually adjusting the infeed height until I got zero rocking. It got there, so they appear to be aligned. However I will see if there is a better recommended method. I also realise that I should vget that alignment when the infeed is at or very near zero, using the outfeed height to get the zero lift between the tables.

I had a spare set that came with the machine and they are brand new-wrapped up.........and scary sharp! I did my practice runs with the old blades, for safety and economy reasons, but I agree it's no goo starting out with blunt blades.

Learning all the time. I have found this very frustrating and somewhat tiring, but I am only throwing scrap wood at the beast for now and being patient.

Nick

Ah! Yes. I do have dial gauges etc, from my mechanicing days (purely amateur, but I have never done anything more satisfying than rebuilding an engine........I found it a very Zen experience )

What worked for me when I used to have the same machine, was to use magnets across the tables to hold the blades in place while the screws were carefully tightened.

Good Video.

HAH! I am 90% sure (it's elsewhere ATM) that my dial gauge is an Enco

He is pretty much doing a precision version of my attempts. Off to get the dial gauge and have another go.

Nick

I have one of these machines and the tables were out of line (still are a bit, but its cutting better) i had to remove some of the pins that they insert after they have 'lined' the tables up in the factory!

If your after a solution for a fence, i am just working on an idea that should be extremely stable and sturdy and mounted at each end of the tables. I am only working on a 90deg one at the moment... but will see if i can get an angled one also in time... i'll keep you posted...

Steve

HAH! Yeah Steve. I have read a few comments about the setup from the factory on these machines. As I said mine look pretty good using a (tested) straight edge and light on the other side....no light gets through. Maybe this machine was loved at one time and that was checked.

I have actually done the fence apart from planing the face. But I would be interested in what you come up with. Any reason you want to go to the ends for mounting? From what I have seen that would be unusual.

Rather than editing again....

I know this is probably not a standard test , but I did plane a piece of pine to the point where it will adhere to the table because of air pressure on top (you feel it "suck" if you try to lift it), and will "hydroplane (or hovercraft)" across the table if slid, on a cushion of air. That's already better then anything I have achieved in the past.