Thread: dewalt radial arm saw

is this the one Rex
VintageMachinery.org - Photo Index - DeWalt Products Co. - Machine 1500 Model 203800
If a 12 inch blade fits in the guard and arbour you are good to go.

I have a newer DW 1250 10 inch. Principle is the same. Let me know if you need more help

cheers
conwood

Looks the same except the one i got had no legs only table , and has 1501 on it as machine number has the same handles and colouring , i put it on legs and i have got a piece of thick ply for a top now , REX

What direction is the blade supposed to run ? Its running clockwise is it supposed to ? I fitted a 10 inch blade to it to square up guide and it ran the opposite to what i expected , Thanks REX

Hi Rex,
The teeth should be going down onto the material being cut and forcing the material against the fence.

should not be moving material towards you..big danger.

if running the wrong way the motor is wired incorrectly.

hope this helps.
cheers
conwood

Originally Posted by racyrabbit

Looks the same except the one i got had no legs only table , and has 1501 on it as machine number has the same handles and colouring , i put it on legs and i have got a piece of thick ply for a top now , REX

I was able to get hold of a 12 inch blade and it fits so now have to make a reducer to take it from 38 to 16 , got 2 fine tooth blades but have a large centre , i will look at Rocky swap for more blades , Thanks REX

These things were in every workshop in the land once upon a time and were an invaluable asset; so many of us cut our teeth on them. As well as crosscut they could rip and could be set up to cut very large sheets of panelboard single handed, even for a young apprentice.

But be a tad careful here, the trick is to get the right blade as they look very similar to the modern ones of todays saws. the bade bottom rotates toward the rear, kicking the dust out the back the same as the drop saws of today. if you have to ask that question then cut the power cord and leave it to someone else to use, it is not a saw for fools.

Originally Posted by dakotax3

These things were in every workshop in the land once upon a time and were an invaluable asset; so many of us cut our teeth on them. As well as crosscut they could rip and could be set up to cut very large sheets of panelboard single handed, even for a young apprentice.

But be a tad careful here, the trick is to get the right blade as they look very similar to the modern ones of todays saws. the bade bottom rotates toward the rear, kicking the dust out the back the same as the drop saws of today. if you have to ask that question then cut the power cord and leave it to someone else to use, it is not a saw for fools.

I hope your not inferring that i am a fool ,just because i didnt know all about a saw that i found at a dump ,i am a tradesman ,been one for 35 years started my trade at 15 finished by 20 ,i have put many apprentices through my metal trade , I do have a few tools and machines , I have been a manual arts teacher as well , i have only just got into wood working and have made a few items , So i would like to think that you were not being a smart---e , i do have 3 other bench type saws but have never had anything to do with radial arm saws that why i asked here ,but if thats the way this forum talks to new woodworkers , go and JUMP

Let's draw a breath and treat each other with respect please gents.

Groggy
Moderator

racyabbbit, don't let one member's bad attitude put you off the forum I doubt there is any better place on this planet to gain better information on woodwork and many other topics, you have mthe right idea if you don't know ask and 99% of the time you will receive a sesible answer.If your 12'' blade clears the guard then it is most likley correct. One you are au fait with it use you will find it very usefull (despite what some people will tell you that they are out dated) I use my Radial arm saw almost every day

Hey racyrabbit

Welcome to the forum, nice to have you here. I'm going to back China here mate - this place is full of great people willing to help out.

When Dad downsized his house, his radial arm saw ended up at my Brother's place. He considered selling it but there was no way we were going to let that happen so we sent it to the biggest shed in the family. Wish I had a big shed! I love that damn saw!

Danny

I have been near a radial arm saw operator who misused it out of ignorance and I can assure you things happen very quickly. Although they do a similar job to a modern day scms, they do it very differently indeed; and this is where the danger comes in. Radial arm saws cut on the pull stroke and, given the correct blade, the material being cut is not clamped. The larger blades, 12" and above, have a tendancy to walk toward the operator when cutting and the operator has to be ready to control that walk with resistance against it. Think about that last sentence and you'll understand why bigger blades are more prone to it. As I said in my previous post and you need to be warned: IT'S ALL IN THE BLADE. I'm no saw doctor and it's a black art for those who aren't but it has to do with negative rake on the leading edge of each tooth. Modern scms have a small but positive rake and are designed to be pushed through to cut clamped material. To the inexperienced eye, the blades look very similar but there is an acute difference. Radial Arm Saws are a very different beast. Be warned.

http://www.decs.sa.gov.au/docs/docum...eSafeUse-2.pdf

https://www.woodworkforums.com/f13/ra...rection-37930/

Know what you are working with.

I have made a reducer for blade and fitted and and gave it a go today ,only tried it on some pine and i bit of silky oak , i have been makeing large display cabinets out of silky oak, Just a silky frame and all glass even doors are just a frame with glass , i then put glass shelves ,i have an old triton, We collect art deco glass so my bit of woodworking skills have been put to use in this field , As i use lathes and can fabricate i can pick up most things if explained to me , Thanks to people that helped , REX

Hi Rex
I'm glad you have not left
I was a 16 year old apprentice carpenter when I first used a radial arm saw. The tradesman who showed me what do is the same information I tell anybody who asks me now

When pulling the saw back to cut try to keep your "pulling arm" taught. By that, I mean, try not to let your elbow bend as you do the cut. In the worst case scenario the blade will want to ride up onto the top of the timber instead of cutting and this is what you have to be wary of.
The saw is capable of trenching as well with anything up to a 50mm wide X 30mm deep trench. This is especially where you have to be careful
The "walking forward" of the blade can easily be remedied by lifting the front of the saw table a little so you are actually pulling the saw "uphill" slightly so at rest when you have both hands busy getting the timber ready for the next cut, the saw is happily whirring away and out of your way Or you could set up a rope and pulley system with a weight that pulls the saw back to the rest position.
I have 2 of these machines set up in my shed all the time. I don't use them a lot now, but they are great to have when you need them

By the way. I never clamp timber into my scms or my metal drop saw for that matter. I am not saying I am a "superman". I am just care full and never really had a problem. And yes I still have all my digits and yes they all work

Another tradesman told me you can't be classed as a tradesman until you have lost a finger. He told me that when I was 15 and even then I thought to myself I want to show my grand kids my fingers

That's funny. For the record my father, the one with the Radial Arm Saw has only nine fingers. Chopped one up in a machine (haven't asked what type) as a fitter and turner before he moved to carpentry.

Back then (the 50's), they couldn't do much for it, leaving him with it fully paralysed. A few months later he had it removed because it kept getting in the way.

He tells the grandkids it happened because he picked his nose.

Danny