Thread: Getting vintage jointer to work

I have removed the gib screw on the outfeed table with a 3/16 hex key. Unfortunately, I still can't remove it. That's what I expected, as I can't remove the infeed table with no screws either, but I was hoping at the very least it would loosen the outfeed table enough for me to shim it up. However, it still cannot be budged.

The table is down as far as it can go. It's at a point where the depth adjuster can rotate freely but the table won't go any lower. I'm doing all the research I can on how to remove jointer tables but is there the possibility that they are just not removable?

The interesting thing out of all of this is that removing the gib screw had no effect whatsoever. In fact, I think the other 2 screws don't either. I could adjust the table height with all the screws in. So... they do nothing?

I might have to live with just shimming up the infeed.

20200509_113623.jpg20200509_113740.jpg20200509_113635 (2).jpg

Plenty of spray on the gib and the other side, let it sit for a while and then try to get it to go back up until the height adjuster engages.

Crank it up and down many times with lots of spray to wash out the gunk that is holding the gib tight. Once the gunk is gone the table will almost fall out.

The gunk will be gone when you can easily remove the gib. Be careful as there will be nothing holding the table in place and it will fall out.

The left and right screws are for setting the correct clearance on the gib so that it moves smoothly and the middle one is the position lock after you set the depth of cut.

Originally Posted by Bohdan

Plenty of spray on the gib and the other side, let it sit for a while and then try to get it to go back up until the height adjuster engages.

Crank it up and down many times with lots of spray to wash out the gunk that is holding the gib tight. Once the gunk is gone the table will almost fall out.

The gunk will be gone when you can easily remove the gib. Be careful as there will be nothing holding the table in place and it will fall out.

The left and right screws are for setting the correct clearance on the gib so that it moves smoothly and the middle one is the position lock after you set the depth of cut.

Just 3-in-1 oil or WD40?

I'm a bit concerned if it happens to "fall out" then I can't put it back haha.

Not so concerned about it falling out, as the wooden stand under it is unbreakable

Have you tried removing the table adjustment handle? If it's anything like my jointer you won't be able to get the table off with that still attached.

Originally Posted by bueller

Have you tried removing the table adjustment handle? If it's anything like my jointer you won't be able to get the table off with that still attached.

No, I wouldn't know how. Do you mean the handle itself, or the thing behind it? See the infeed table picture here, which is missing the handle. I can't see how to remove either, btw.\

20200502_105821.jpg20200502_105828.jpg

Edit: Maybe this thing?
20200509_125900.jpg

The handle is attached to the table and should come off with the table.

The oil has to be a penetrating oil that is very thin so that it will wash out the gunk. WD40 is not the best choise as its prime purpose is water displacement.

My spray of choise is Liquid Spanner.

Now that you have the depth adjustment disengaged from the table can you get your hands under the table just below the dovetail/Gib area and try to lift the table up pulling in the same angle as the dovetails. If you stand at the opposite end of the Jointer you can sort of pull towards yourself but also upwards. You might only get a small amount of movement but if it does move at all then keep spraying the lube in and keep trying to slide the table up and down. With the movement and the lube you should start to get more and more movement until it is eventually free to come out. Like you have said, it can only fall onto the wooden stand so shouldn't be a danger to yourself if it suddenly falls out if standing at the opposite end.

Originally Posted by Bohdan

The oil has to be a penetrating oil that is very thin so that it will wash out the gunk.

Is there anything I can get from Bunnings or Supercheap Auto? I might order some Liquid Spanner anyway, but I want to hit it with something now, even WD-40, if it's better than nothing

Originally Posted by yoboseyo

Is there anything I can get from Bunnings

H72 is also very good but expensive at Bunnies. Use WD40 till you can get some real spray.

Now I can't get the depth adjustment to go back in. This could spell real trouble. I've tried applying upwards force while turning it, and hitting the thread with a hammer, but it won't catch.

It's very hard to see all the way inside it, but the depth adjustment looks like a threaded rod and sleeve. It looks like the rod is inside the sleeve, but it must be too far out to catch the thread.

I've sprayed lubricant in and out. It won't budge at all. As of now, it won't up and it won't go down. I hope I didn't catch a 100kg paperweight

20200509_142421.jpg

If you have a long clamp put it across the full length of the tables and as you clamp it the threaded rod will engage.

Originally Posted by Bohdan

If you have a long clamp put it across the full length of the tables and as you clamp it the threaded rod will engage.

Do you think of these on the fly, or have you just seen everything?

Originally Posted by yoboseyo

Now I can't get the depth adjustment to go back in. This could spell real trouble. I've tried applying upwards force while turning it, and hitting the thread with a hammer, but it won't catch.



20200509_142421.jpg

Definitely don't hit the thread or handle with a hammer especially when you are near to getting the threads together as you can damage the ends of the threads and it will never engage until you get it apart and file the damaged ends.

I'm so confused by the handle assembly. There is what seems to be a collar around it with a screw in it but I can't for the life of me figure out what it would be for.

Mine had a grub screw through the tables which prevented the handles being removed but unless they're below the handle I can't see anything like that on yours.

And yeah +1 on the hammer, if I ever needed to hit stuff I use a soft mallet or at the worst would use a piece of timber between the machine and the hammer to spread out the impact area.