Thread: Getting vintage jointer to work

Originally Posted by Treecycle

Definitely don't hit the thread or handle with a hammer especially when you are near to getting the threads together as you can damage the ends of the threads and it will never engage until you get it apart and file the damaged ends.

That was dumb. Hope I didn't damage the end of the rod.

What I can't figure out, though, is that if the end of the rod is loose then why won't the table come off? It has to be more than just friction. Maybe the rod can't come out any further and the handle itself has to be removed to allow the table to come off

Originally Posted by riverbuilder

My advice- Don’t hit ANYTHING with a hammer, keep looking, there’s probably a stop screw or a pin to prevent the table falling out. The advice about spraying thin lubricant and such is spot on, keep spraying and wiggling until lots of black gunk starts coming out, then keep spraying snd wiggling some more. Be patient.

there's no wiggle. The infeed table wiggles. The outfeed doesn't. I've looked in and under it. The only thing I can think of is the handle itself

The handle and it's shaft is attached to the table, then the shaft runs through a threaded block which is attachéd to the base of the machine. The reason that the outfeed table is so tight most likely Is because it never gets moved, at all. once it's set to the height of the knives, that's it. if the adjustment wheel and it's shaft are engaged, then keep spraying down the dovetails, and keep moving it, even a little bit per hour is enough, while you're doing other things, then have another go in an hour's time. it could take a week to free up.

Originally Posted by yoboseyo

Now I can't get the depth adjustment to go back in. This could spell real trouble. I've tried applying upwards force while turning it, and hitting the thread with a hammer, but it won't catch.

It's very hard to see all the way inside it, but the depth adjustment looks like a threaded rod and sleeve. It looks like the rod is inside the sleeve, but it must be too far out to catch the thread.



I've sprayed lubricant in and out. It won't budge at all. As of now, it won't up and it won't go down. I hope I didn't catch a 100kg paperweight

Attachment 473239

looking at that photo, those dovetails are still very dirty, and no doubt full of crud, keep cleaning everything off, you might find the pin or stop screw that you're looking for.

Originally Posted by riverbuilder

looking at that photo, those dovetails are still very dirty, and no doubt full of crud, keep cleaning everything off, you might find the pin or stop screw that you're looking for.

Yeah, there's no good way to get inside it, though. I may have to take the whole thing off the base, but I'd only do that as the last resort. I've just been using the WD40 spray nozzle to get inside it

I don't think they'd put a pin or stop screw inside the thing

Have you seen this thread.. it has some diagrams of the jointer internals

Duro Metal Products Co. - Publication Reprints - Instructions Duro Tools 5" Jointer Mdl. F3034 | VintageMachinery.org

Also this one.
Catalog Duro Jointers Catalog 1941

I have removed the jointer from the base, and laid it out on my lawn and gave it a good shake. I've removed all the loose debris and as much caked on gunk as I can reach. I'd like to give it a better clean, but I don't have an air compressor. Is it ok if I hit it with a high pressure hose, if I dry it and hit it with WD40 immediately after?

There's no evidence of any more bolts or pins. Looks like that's it for this piece of machinery. Only thing I can do now is clean it and hope penetrating oil makes it move. My Liquid Wrench came in the mail during the week btw.

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Looking at the diagram I linked to, and looking at the adjustment without the handle on your unit, the pin knocks out, you undo the grub screw and take off the collar and maybe the table will slide out over the adjusting rod?

Originally Posted by Lappa

Looking at the diagram I linked to, and looking at the adjustment without the handle on your unit, the pin knocks out, you undo the grub screw and take off the collar and maybe the table will slide out over the adjusting rod?

I thought about that. I wasn't sure whether the pin could be knocked out. Worth a shot

I removed the ball handle pin, and that didn't result in me being able to remove the handle. I'm not sure whether the thread had to be held in place with vice grips while I rip the handle off. It's the same thing with the infeed table without the ball handle.

I think I'm going down a rabbithole here. It's not logical to me that the handle has to be removed for the table to slide out when the thread has already disengaged from the sleeve. The table, handle and thread should be one piece.

Can anyone advise whether washing with a garden hose is okay? It's the only way I have to blast it with high pressure, but I don't want to cause rust.

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Originally Posted by Lappa

Looking at the diagram I linked to, and looking at the adjustment without the handle on your unit, the pin knocks out, you undo the grub screw and take off the collar and maybe the table will slide out over the adjusting rod?

Would you be able to point out which diagram indicates that? I've been looking at this diagram of the handle, and it's not clear.

The only thing I get from this is that bolt at the bottom is replaced with that irremovable round thing in my unit. Still, as the thread is disengaged, theoretically there's nothing else holding the table in place other than friction.

diagram1.jpg

Unfortunately I don't think that is a diagram of your unit so it won't help.
What are the 2 round shafts for that we can see in the upside down shots in post 37?
Squirting it with a hose won't hurt it so long as you do what you say and give it a good spray with WD40 soon after the wash, both the moving table slides and the table tops but generally over everything. No sure if the hose will help much.

Of course its not the same machine BUT it is made by the same company but obviously of no help whatsoever

Originally Posted by Treecycle

What are the 2 round shafts for that we can see in the upside down shots in post 37?

It's where the bolt is in the diagram in post 40, so I'd say that. It's not removable though

I wouldn't put the hose on it. Can you tap the gib out. Could try using a bit of hard wood that is a slightly under the size of the gib