Thread: Getting vintage jointer to work

I would spend the time to strip it back, clean it up and put it back together again. They are fairly simple, but take lots of photos for reference.

Thanks did one a few years ago. I’m sure I posted some photos, or they may be in one of my forum albums. For the infeed adjustment if you don’t want to source a hand wheel perhaps you could just weld a spanned to the shaft and use that.

Keep us updated.

First step towards getting the tables co-planar I would take would be to remove both tables from the main casting and clean all the keyways. There can be rust and dust in the key ways affecting alignment. You will need to loosen/remove the bolts that tighten the gibs, (steel strips in behind your missing bold on the outfeed table) so you can remove the tables. Once parts are clean, reassemble and adjust the gibs. With a bit of luck that may be all you require. Then look at shimming if that doesn't work. There will be a bit of weight in the tables so work out how you are going to support them before undoing them.
Pulling something like this apart is a great way of understanding how it operates. They are pretty simple old machines and with a bit of work setting it up it should give you years of service.

Tony

This afternoon I worked on the fence assembly. I will figure out the main body tomorrow.

20200502_200435.jpg

The fence wasn't holding its angle. The bolts holding the fence to the adjuster was slipping, even with the bolt tightened. The fence assembly was simple enough to take apart. The main part is to the left of the cutterhead. I saw some gunk buildup in the bolt holes, which may be why the bolt holding the fence at an angle wasn't holding properly. This whole thing could be submerged in something to dissolve the gunk in bolt holes.

What is a good way to dissolve gunk in parts that can't be removed? Just get in there with a pick? Can I soak the fence adjuster in something? Water-based solvent, then hit with WD-40? Oil-based solvent?

Edit:
better explanation of the fence problem
Attachment 472868 Attachment 472869

A is the angle adjuster. B goes on A, and then a bolt goes through both. With the bolt tight, B's arm can still move. I found a bit of gunk in A, which is why the bolt isn't tight. I might also need to grind the bolt a bit shorter

Originally Posted by tony_A

First step towards getting the tables co-planar I would take would be to remove both tables from the main casting and clean all the keyways. There can be rust and dust in the key ways affecting alignment. You will need to loosen/remove the bolts that tighten the gibs, (steel strips in behind your missing bold on the outfeed table) so you can remove the tables. Once parts are clean, reassemble and adjust the gibs. With a bit of luck that may be all you require. Then look at shimming if that doesn't work. There will be a bit of weight in the tables so work out how you are going to support them before undoing them.
Pulling something like this apart is a great way of understanding how it operates. They are pretty simple old machines and with a bit of work setting it up it should give you years of service.

Tony

Thanks! Do you know what the missing bolt is for, and what the impact of it being missing is?

Think its one of the bolts that puts pressure on the gibs to take up any movement in the keyways. If they are loose or worn it will allow the table to sag. Then, eventually, you get dust under the table keyway and it cant be tightened back down level. You should be able to see the gib by looking at the end of the keyway where the table slides

Originally Posted by tony_A

Think its one of the bolts that puts pressure on the gibs to take up any movement in the keyways. If they are loose or worn it will allow the table to sag. Then, eventually, you get dust under the table keyway and it cant be tightened back down level. You should be able to see the gib by looking at the end of the keyway where the table slides

I'm guessing the gib screws to allow the table to be removed are to either side of the missing bolt?

The gib is a metal strip running the length of the keyway or ways on one or both sides of the table. Google jointer gibs and you will get some diagrams showing the arrangement.

If it's anything like my Woodfast jointer then the 2 outer screws are for getting the tables co-planar and the centre screw tightens everything up.

You can get the tables off by lowering them as far as they'll go, removing the gib adjustment screws and then tapping the gib out from the top of the ways with a pin punch.

I'd recommend having someone standing by to make sure the table doesn't drop out, I actually used an engine hoist but that was a 10" jointer with long tables so pretty heavy.

Bueller's shed - a noobs journey through vintage machinery

Here's a post where I discussed removing the tables. It also contains a link which informed my process. You can see from the photos just how much crud builds up over the years, would definitely recommend removing the tables and cleaning the ways so you can align the tables properly.

Here is a site that has some info on the company that made your unit.
Also a couple of files from there but it may not be your model. Jointer_1 Jointer_2

I was not able to remove the infeed and outfeed. I undid all the screws and have tried adjusting the depth to the min and max. I tried giving it a tap with a mallet. No dice.

The infeed has a bit of play on the gibs with screws removed. I can shim it up. I'd rather shim the outfeed, but the outfeed has no play whatsoever. Looks like I'll have to choose a cut depth and stick with it.

20200503_163637.jpg

20200503_163657.jpg

20200503_163849.jpg
Also, I found the problem with the fence angle assembly. The mechanism has some inbuilt play of a few degrees (whether by design, flaw, or internal parts wearing down), and it seems like I can't do anything about it. I'll have to figure out some way of getting the fence straight after I adjust the tables.

This video is the only way to show the problem. Notice how when the bolt is tightened, the bar doesn't move, but the disc does.

I also found this hole under the disc. I don't know what it does. May be a clue?
20200503_163556.jpg

In that last photograph, it looks like a grub screw and requires an allen key to remove or tighten it.
Clean the hole thoroughly and try and do it up. I think that will solve to loose disc problem.
Keep working on the tables. They will be fixable. Patience old fella.

John

Originally Posted by Wimmera Jack

In that last photograph, it looks like a grub screw and requires an allen key to remove or tighten it.
Clean the hole thoroughly and try and do it up. I think that will solve to loose disc problem.
Keep working on the tables. They will be fixable. Patience old fella.

John

Thanks! This worked! The fence is not an issue anymore.

Now to the tables. There is another hex screw on the outfeed table, and if it's anything like the aforementioned, that should hopefully loosen the outfeed table. Unfortunately it is a non-standard size - right between 4mm and 5mm, and I don't have the right sized key for it.

I still have had no luck with the infeed table, however. It is loose, but I don't know how to actually remove it.

11/64" (just under 4.4mm) and 3/16" (just under 4.8mm) are both between 4 and 5mm. 3/16" is probably more likely. If you don't have an imperial set of Allen keys it's time you bought one.