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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    10

    Question Ideas needed for SCMS bench

    I think it's time to build a bench for my Kapex (known as Fritz) rather than leaving him on the shelf and then having to set it up each time on the main bench.
    So I thought I would pick the brains of those who have already done it. Any photos or measurements would be appreciated.
    I envisage a bench where the Kapex would be set in a recess so that long lengths can lie on the bench top and straight onto the saw.

    Thanks.

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Gold Coast
    Posts
    302

    Default

    The width of the lowered portion that your Kapex sits on needs to take into account the total amount of travel of the saw head at the maximum cutting angle. ie if you are set for a 45 degree cut (if that is the maximum angle), measure how far the head travels past the saw base on either side and make sure your base plate is wide enough to accomdoate this travel with out hitting the raised "wings" on either side where the long piece of timber is supported. DAMHIKT

    Also, make sure your bench has enough depth to allow for the saw head travel at 90 degrees and room for dust collection at the rear.
    "If something is really worth doing, it is worth doing badly." - GK Chesterton

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Oberon, NSW
    Age
    63
    Posts
    13,360

    Default

    The "average" docking bench has the in- & out-feed fences set up flush with the SCMS fence.

    On my old one (which I miss sorely) I had both those fences set back by the thickness of some MDF, so I could screw on a sacrificial face. This served several purposes:

    • I could screw in stop blocks without worrying about damaging the main structure. I hate using clamps as stops 'cos they always seem to creep on me. If a piece of MDF got too ratty, 'twas cheap & simple to replace.
    • When cutting bowed lengths, I could set up a shortish sac. piece close to the blade and another at the far end of the timber, near the stop. This meant I could cut the end square without worrying about the bow affecting the cut. (Otherwise... if it bows to the front, the blade can jam if it pulls the board to the fence as you finish the cut. If it's bowed to the back, then the board "rocks" and you can't be sure it's square.)
    • Most of the time I had the sac. pieces mounted with about 5-7mm vertical clearance from the "bed." So if any crap got caught between the timber and the fence I could still go ahead with the cut without having to eff around pulling the crap out of the way. Just laziness, but it made life easier.
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc

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