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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
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    St Georges Basin
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    Default Jet 16/32 drum adjustment tweak

    I did two things, first one was on the net and seemed like a good idea. It gets rid of the spring in the adjustment mechanism and replaces it with two nuts to lock against each other. There is also another nut which locks the threaded part in place. (The nuts are m8x1.) Here's a pic;



    The second thing was to make some sleeves for the holes which act as the pivot for the drum/motor/arch assembly. Takes all the slop out of the rotation and most of the unwanted movement when tightening the nuts. Here's a pic, you can just make out the sleeve (I used Delrin for the job).

    .

    Makes fine adjustment very positive and easy without using a complicated set up. I got to 0.05mm difference across the drum just doing it aurally, listening to the noise as it was cutting, and then testing with verniers.

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    1,770

    Default

    No pics
    There ain't no devil, it's just god when he's drunk!!

    Tom Waits

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    St Georges Basin
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    1,017

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Enfield Guy View Post
    No pics
    they come up on my screen, anyone else have problems?

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    1,770

    Default

    I can see them now.

    I've had a 22/44 machine for about 10 years and recently the adjustment screw thread pulled out of the cast iron base. It turns out the thread in the base was 5/16 unf, the thread on the screw was about a 32nd smaller. I've drilled, tapped and recoiled the cast base and replaced the screw and handle.
    There ain't no devil, it's just god when he's drunk!!

    Tom Waits

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Katoomba NSW
    Posts
    4,774

    Default

    I can see 'em.
    Those were the droids I was looking for.
    https://autoblastgates.com.au

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    St Georges Basin
    Posts
    1,017

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Enfield Guy View Post
    I can see them now.

    I've had a 22/44 machine for about 10 years and recently the adjustment screw thread pulled out of the cast iron base. It turns out the thread in the base was 5/16 unf, the thread on the screw was about a 32nd smaller. I've drilled, tapped and recoiled the cast base and replaced the screw and handle.
    yeah, there seems to be some funny match up in thread sizes between the components, but m8x1 was the best I could find for the nuts on the existing thread. I was going to replace the bolt part as well but m8x1 bolts/screws are impossible to get.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    1,770

    Default

    Yep, funny alright. I had been having difficulty adjusting my machine and couldn't work out why, till the thread pulled out of the casting. At that point I went stuff it it just has to be fixed with a recoil insert and a new HT UNF screw. In my opinion it could have been better engineered, but at least I got it working again. Wouldn't be without a piece of kit like this.
    There ain't no devil, it's just god when he's drunk!!

    Tom Waits

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Darkest NSW
    Posts
    3,207

    Default

    I had a cunning plan to improve the adjustment of the drum on my 16-32; haven't got around to trying it yet. Remove paper from drum, and place flat machined heavy lump of metal on the bed belt beneath one end of the drum. Connect one multimeter probe to metal part of drum, other probe to lump of metal (insulated from rest of machine by belt), set multimeter to "beep" continuity mode. Easy to detect when drum is exactly at height of lump of metal at both ends?

    Only needs to be done/checked maybe once a year, so worth trying to get it right.

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
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    St Georges Basin
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Brush View Post
    I had a cunning plan to improve the adjustment of the drum on my 16-32; haven't got around to trying it yet. Remove paper from drum, and place flat machined heavy lump of metal on the bed belt beneath one end of the drum. Connect one multimeter probe to metal part of drum, other probe to lump of metal (insulated from rest of machine by belt), set multimeter to "beep" continuity mode. Easy to detect when drum is exactly at height of lump of metal at both ends?

    Only needs to be done/checked maybe once a year, so worth trying to get it right.
    Don't forget that moving the adjuster bolt causes both ends of the drum to change. You need to remove the test piece, adjust the horizontal level of the drum and then readjust the height of the drum to your test piece, then test the level again. I think it would still be advantageous the fit the bushes/sleeves to the pivot points to take some of the inaccuracy out of the operation.

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