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Thread: Jointer setup

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by groeneaj View Post
    Ok, then once there in line with the outfeed, lower the outfeed table slightly? But then the outfeed and infeed wont be coplaner?

    Is there a way (a jig maybe) to set the knives slightly above the outfeed?

    Where can I get some old speaker magnets at this time of the year?


    How I have it setup at the moment would that work? I'll find out tomorrow I guess..
    Yep. Sorry when i said raise it. I meant lower (the out-feed) by a few thou from TDC of the cutterblock/knives.

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  3. #17
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    I have a couple of concerns with moving the out-feed table once you have done the initial setup to ensure the in and out-feed tables are coplanar with your straight edge. It is an extra step that is not needed, there is no guarantee that it is still parallel with the in-feed table (unless yours is designed to be adjusted as easily as an in-feed table and even then ??) so you also need check with a straight-edge and feeler gauges that it is parallel. It's enough of a chore to get the knives set correctly without adding unnecessary complications. Just use the timber batten to adjust the knives. It's quite adequate for excellent results. That is how The Mentor taught me. I did use a dial gauge, but as in the video link posted earlier, it can actually do your head in even more as you chase numbers and they move when you tighten up the knives, it takes quite a bit of practice. Just relax and do the simplest thing first and get it working, there'll be plenty of time to get more anal about it.

    Cheers
    Michael

  4. #18
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    Ok I think I have got it working correctly again. I only edge jointed two pieces today and it seems to be ok.

    I'm having one of those periods where EVERYTHING I do in the workshop stuffs up. I'm making a box for my mate at the moment and it's been a nightmare, nothing is working for me.
    Tomorrows another day and i'm sure i'll sort it out.


    Thanks for the help



    Andy

  5. #19
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    We all have days like that - the quicker you want to get a project finished, the more mistakes and errors happen! Take your time with it, and you'll be fine.

    ajw

  6. #20
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    I took the safety cover off to adjust the table, however when I put it back I must have screwed it down too tight as it doesn't retract back over the cutters when a piece is pushed through. As a result, helped by my lack of concentration I cut the corner of my finger off. It's not as bad as it sounds but it could have been ALOT worse! A couple of stitches and I'll be fine.
    So a reminder to all, make sure your cover is working correctly!


    Happy new year

    Andy

  7. #21
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    Ouch. Hope you're OK. More importantly, you didn't get any blood on the timber for your mate's box did you???

    ajw

  8. #22
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    Yep, got blood on the piece of timber. I took a photo and i'll give it to him when I give him the box.


    This is driving me insane. I can flatten the face of a board, but when it comes to edge jointing it won't come out flat. It usually has a hallow along the length of the edge.

    Any ideas?

  9. #23
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    Can't really diagnose the problem without watching you do it. If you've got one or more of the knives set too high (relative to the outfeed table) you can get the problem you've described, but I'd expect to see it on the face as well as the edge.

    ajw

  10. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by groeneaj View Post
    Yep, got blood on the piece of timber. I took a photo and i'll give it to him when I give him the box.


    This is driving me insane. I can flatten the face of a board, but when it comes to edge jointing it won't come out flat. It usually has a hallow along the length of the edge.

    Any ideas?
    G'day Andy,
    You are in the wars! Before trying to align the tables, check with a straight edge and three pieces of paper that each table is flat within itself. Place a piece of the paper at each end of the table and one in the centre. Place straight edge on the pieces of paper. If each piece shows resistance when pulled the surface is flat. This method works for both concave and convex surfaces. Now, with a full length straight edge that is as long as the overall length of both tables, Place two pieces of paper at each end of each table (four pieces in total. Place straight edge on paper and check for resistance when paper is pulled. If all pieces have resistance shesa flat! BTW, All pieces of papershould be cut from same sheet to get consistancy.
    Another thing that may be giving you trouble is if you are trying to straighten a convex edge. You need to hollow to concave and then straighten.
    If you're still in trouble PM me and I'll drop in on the way through and see what we can do.

  11. #25
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    Thanks for the reply - I have checked both tables and they are flat. I'll give it another go tomorrow and see if I can get a flat edge.

    Andy

  12. #26
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    What size are the pieces you are trying to edge-joint?

    Paul McGee

  13. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by pmcgee View Post
    What size are the pieces you are trying to edge-joint?

    Paul McGee
    Hey Paul,
    From around 800mm long x 180-200 wide x 12-30mm thick.

    I'm going to have another go at edge jointing tomorrow and see how I go.
    Iv'e been thinking of getting a blade setting jig to ensure the blades are at the same height. Maybe even a dial indicator? I can use it on the table saw too then.


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