Thread: Jointer vs Planer/Thicknesser

Like most of life's questions, there is no one single answer that will serve.

To square up a board, the typical practice is to run one edge through a jointer until flat and square, run THAT edge against the fence of a table saw to achieve two parallel faces, then square up the ends. These pieces can then be thicknessed as you like.

On the other hand, some thickness first and square up later. And there are other ways of achieving the first square edge without a jointer, e.g., a good circular saw and guide rail or even a table-mounted router with a split fence and shims.

The thicknesser will not square up the timber by itself. It is a multi-step process, as you can see. But if you can only buy one machine, I would choose the thicknesser because of the alternative ways to square up the timber.

And don't worry. Someone else will be along directly to contradict me.

Your 350 mm curved piece represents a dilemma as a thicknesser used in conventional way won't fix this and a entry/middle level jointers won't handle this size. However a thicknesser on a sled to support the slab will be able to tackle this.

If you can get access to a decent router, I would suggest a router planer, surfacer type approach.
See this thread https://www.woodworkforums.com/showth...light=surfacer.

Basic concept is that the router uses a largish facing bit, and travels back and forth accross the slab while slowly moving allong the length of it suspended from a frame. In this way the bit removes the high spots from the slab to create a flat face, and the slab can then be turned over, resting on the flattened face, to flatten the other face.

Slow but simple proccess, and easily scaled to accomodate the slab that you have. I would suspect cheaper than a 350mm capacity jointer as well, even if you had to buy a router and the bit.

Thanks, Malb. The router planer approach looks like it will work for me - got the router, need to chase down the bit on the weekend. Initial thought is to use the router on the triton workcentre in the overhead mode provided I can work out a way to keep the timber secured.

A Slab Master is the answer

Originally Posted by BAMBI

Thanks, Malb. The router planer approach looks like it will work for me - got the router, need to chase down the bit on the weekend. Initial thought is to use the router on the triton workcentre in the overhead mode provided I can work out a way to keep the timber secured.

The router and the bit is the easy part, you have to be able to lock the timber down and sweep the router across the entire 1.5m long surface of the timber. I don't think the triton work centre is going to do it for you. You need a rig something like this .

Multiple searches failed to turn up a six/multiflute facing bit. Could anyone advise if it might go under a different name or a manufacturer please?

I'm not an expert one this but I'd say squaring this board would be easier if it was cut to size first. That's assuming you're not going to use it in its orginal size - say if you're going to cut it in two and edge-join the two pieces together. Then there'd be less flattening to do because the bow would be half as high, if you know what I mean. (I'm guessing you're not going to build a 1500x350mm coffee table.)

Gaz

Not having a jointer to straighten timber is an obvious problem so what do you do if you don't have one?

Well this is my solution that I used when I made my first clock... A grandfather clock from rough sawn planks.

To straighten the edges
I bought a 2.4m length of chipboard shelving and screwed my plank to it right at the ends so that the edge to be cut or trimmed just overhung the edge of the chipboard shelf. Next I ran the whole thing over the the table saw to get my first straight edge with the edged side of the chipboard shelf against the fence. Next step was to unscrew it, flip it over and run it through the saw again to get it parallel. To fix the faces, careful selection and passing through a thicknesser bit by bit and flipping it over got a very acceptable finish. I think it took me most of one day just to prepare the timber to the required sizes. It is very difficult to get twists out (even with a jointer so choose you timber carefully if you can). The same piece of chipboard can be used over and over as you never actually cut it.

If I am using especially rough chainsawn slabs or pieces of firewood, I will rotate it 90 degrees, screw it down and run it through the saw again. It is a bit slow and tedious but if that is the only way then that is what happens.

Once it is straightened and squared, it can be run through the thicknesser

(This method can be used to straighten the edges with a router too provided it is not too thick)

For shorter pieces it is possible to fit it to a sled and pass it through a thicknesser to flatten off a wide face that is too wide for a saw.

The best solution is a jointer! But hey, it is all about problem solving and doing the best with what you have got access to.
Keep woodworking!

Chipman

This is why handplanes were invented!

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Woodwor...icknesser.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

Derek

Nice work

Originally Posted by BAMBI

Multiple searches failed to turn up a six/multiflute facing bit. Could anyone advise if it might go under a different name or a manufacturer please?

Carbitool sell them, different sizes and with replacable or nonreplacable cutting teeth.