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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    33

    Default reliability of cabatec 12 in thicknesser ctj350

    Guys,

    I have one of the above thicknessers and the reliability of the thing is shocking. I have had it for just over 2 years and have had to replace the gearbox once and the poly drive belt 3 times. the last drive belt lasted around 2 hours of work and managed to melt the plastic protection case this time round. I think the poly drive belt melting is a common issue because when i spke to carbatec to see if they had any spares, the guy sorted of laughed and said they had over 70 on stock. I would reckon my thicknesser has done maybe 20 hours of solid work in the time i have had it. It seems that if you ask it to do anymore than 10 mins work at a time it decides to melt the belt of do something else to stop from working. From the other guys that have this thicknesser, do you have the same reliability problems, or do i just have a crappy machine? It seems rediculous to pay $17 for a new drive belt just for an hours work out of it. I am not asking it to do much, just a fraction of each pass.

    Cheers,

    Bakes

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Moo, G'day from CASINO NSW the real home of Beef.
    Age
    58
    Posts
    1,336

    Default

    CT-317 cheap as chips and almost unbreakable(within reason) can't complain about it, however wasn't there a general bashing the thicknesser thread about a similar machine almost year ago?
    Bruce C.
    catchy catchphrase needed here, apply in writing to the above .

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Blue Mountains NSW Australia
    Posts
    592

    Default

    Carbatec list the model # per your quote, as a Jointer, not a thicknesser.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Perth
    Age
    73
    Posts
    82

    Default

    I think you are referring to the CTJ-340 thicknesser, no longer catalogued by C/T. Try using a rubber poly-vee belt instead of the makers replacement belt. C/T in Perth can supply these alternative belts. Solved my problem with belt burnout.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Oberon, NSW
    Age
    63
    Posts
    13,360

    Default

    I had exactly the same problem with mine, going through 3 belts in the first month. The plastic cover was scrap after the first failure, never been replaced.

    I found that, for some reason, the thread on the drive-pulley is RH thread (?? I think, without actually going to have a look. So, I'm lazy. Sue me. ) ... so when the thicknesser starts up it loosens under inertia. After a while, the pulley moves on the key and "plink..." off comes the belt. Bloody sloppy engineering. Some 18months ago I loctited the nut and haven't replaced a belt since. I've since sourced a lock-nut, which'll go on next belt replacement. As I said, I'm lazy.

    The only other complaint I have is the dust-extraction hood... it's a cheap plastic that has sagged in the middle over time, just enough to catch the leading edge of the timber as it exits. :mad: One day I'll trim the bugger, but it's another piece of sloppy engineering.

    If both problems had shown at the same time I'd have wanted a refund, but I didn't have a suitable dusty and used the metal "un-extracted" plate for the first 6 months. All in all, I'm happy with it just the same. The blades are good quality and give a nice finish, they're easily sharpened and reset and it stays set at the chosen height. My previous thicknesser tended to "drop" as I sent a piece of timber through... instant wedges. [shudder]
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    33

    Default

    lyctus,Skew,

    Thanks for your replies. I think I will get onto Carbatec Pth and get me a coupld of those belts.

    I have the same problem with the nut, whats doing with a nut that undoes when the machine is working, bloody silly! If you have a close look at the rod it sits on it is almost as if there should be a circlip on it, the rod is machined for one. I even went to the manual to see if one should have been there. I found after trying to get the pully to align properly, a near impossible task, that if you get it pretty much right the nut will hold, for a while anyway, but if the alignment is out at all the nut comes of straight away. I think i will go the lock nut and loctite route. Once again, thanks guys.

    Cheers,

    Bakes

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