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  1. #1
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    Default How to replace bearing on a Jet 12" thicknesser? (JWP-12)

    Hi Folks!

    I scored a good condition JWP-12 from these very forums.. unfortunately, after running one piece of pine through it one of the bearings gave up the ghost
    IMG_0968.jpg

    After much trial and tribulation I've managed to get most of the thing apart... but what I can't figure out is how to actually get the bearing out!
    I've even managed to get the circlip out but.. now what?

    IMG_0965.jpg

    Anyone got any clues? Tips? Or failing that, recommendations for a bloke who I can throw some cash or beer at to fix this thing?

    Cheers!
    --Dusty

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  3. #2
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    Default

    The secret to removing that bearing is probably at the other end of the cutter shaft. Post pictures of the other end and we may be able to help.

  4. #3
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    Default

    Sure thing! It's basically the same as the other end - doesn't look like the shaft slides through or anything

  5. #4
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    The shaft must slide thru or you would not be able to assemble it in the first place. My guess would be that you need to screw a bolt into the threaded end and then pull the shaft out. This would drop the cutter block and once the block is out the back of the bearing is accessible.

    Warning Check to see that there is no locking screw holding the cutter block on the shaft.
    Last edited by Bohdan; 18th August 2019 at 10:12 AM. Reason: Added warning

  6. #5
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    Default

    If you don't have a manual there's a link to a PDF version on this site - Jet Planers Owner's Manuals/Parts List - Mike's Tools

    It looks to me like the shaft and cutter block are a single item and you may need to remove both bearings to release the cutter block. I would expect the bearings to be pressed on to the shaft and be a friction fit in the cast housings, but from your pictures and the manual it's difficult to see how the bearings are designed to be pulled. I'd be replacing both bearings if I were you.

  7. #6
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    Check if the bearing on the drive end of the shaft is large enough that the cutter block will go thru the bearing mount. If it is then you have to press the cutter out thru that end.

    To do that you will need access to a press as hitting it out will probably flare the end of the shaft and make it imposible to reinsert.

    Good luck.

  8. #7
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    Default

    Looking at the diagram aldav supplied, I’d agree with Bohdan. The shaft and bearings as an assembly come out from the drive end after the blades are removed. The circlip on the other end just positions the bearing and shaft in that end if the housing.

  9. #8
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    Default

    Is the cutter head 40mm dia or less? If it is then the cutter head and bearings need to be pressed out towards the drive end. The diagram for spare parts indicated the drive end bearing is a 6203 which is 40mm OD and the other end is a 6202 which is 35mm OD.
    Unfortunately your photo of the other end of the cutter head won't display for for me for some reason but I would expect that it is just a plain flat end maybe with a centre hole in it. If it is you can use a piece of brass or copper or even a piece of timber up against the bearing and hit it with a hammer and the cutter block should come out as the bearings are not normally a tight fit in the housing. To do this, stand the whole assembly up vertically supporting it on a couple of blocks of wood with someone holding it for you while you tap the end of the shaft firmly with your dolly and hammer.
    As Aldav says, make sure you replace both bearing while you have it apart. Hopefully you have got a puller to get the bearings off the cutter head.
    Dallas

  10. #9
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    Default

    Thanks for the pointers, folks. I finally managed to get back into the shop to take another crack and.. no dice

    The cutter head is definitely a larger diameter than either end of the shaft.8D847737-E941-4288-9807-213E54C87282.jpg

  11. #10
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    Default

    Yeah, that's what it looked like to me and why I thought you would have to remove the bearings at both ends before you could maneuver the cutter head out by moving it towards one end to release the other.
    Looking more closely at the parts diagram in the manual you will see that part #10 is a key that locks the drive from the shaft to the bearing #8. This would indicate to me that the bearing is only a finger tight push on fit (may take a bit of a blow to initially move it) to the cutter block shaft. The picture you previously posted of that end of the cutter block seems to have disappeared from the thread??? So firstly remove the retaining circlip from the other end of the cutter block shaft. Then you should be able to drive the cutter block shaft from the end you originally pictured out of the housing at the other end with the bearing attached. That should allow you to remove the bearing and, since the cutter block shaft is much shorter at one end than the other, you should then be able to extract the cutter block.

    If this doesn't make sense to you I might be able to knock up some pic's (you know, with circles and arrows) to help explain.

  12. #11
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    Just looking at the pic's again. Are you sure it's the cutter block bearings that are the problem? The endcaps on the infeed and outfeed rollers look like they're only bush type bearings and I'd imagine them much more prone to problems than the ball bearings in the cutter block. Even if they seem ok might be a good idea to disassemble, clean and lubricate them prior to reassembly.

  13. #12
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    Default

    The key locks the gear to the shaft, not the bearing to the shaft , I believe.

  14. #13
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    Default

    So firstly remove the retaining circlip from the other end of the cutter block shaft. Then you should be able to drive the cutter block shaft from the end you originally pictured out of the housing at the other end with the bearing attached. That should allow you to remove the bearing and, since the cutter block shaft is much shorter at one end than the other, you should then be able to extract the cutter block.

    Unfortunately, no dice Removed the circlip, applied blunt force and.. no movement.

    The key does lock the gear to the shaft, not the bearing. And it's definitely the cutter bearings - the in/outfeed roller bearings are just dandy. They were the only things working when the drive belt snapped (presumably due to the seized bearing).

  15. #14
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    Default

    There are specialised bearing pullers that go into the bearing between the rollers, Sykes Pickavent were one company that made them Skf were another but it would be an extreme answer to buy just for this job. I would remove the head cradle and take it to an engineering company with new bearings and let them do it. Here is a puller that would do the job

    Blind bearing puller - SKF Blind housing puller kit TMBP 20E
    CHRIS

  16. #15
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    Default

    Hi guys, hopefully not too late replying to this thread.
    If your not confident, please seek professional help.

    Firstly remove any bearing retainers, circlips, etc. The bearings usually tap (bash) out from the inside, using a drift, and by working in the blade insert recess.

    You may have to alternate tapping from the top of the machine, then the bottom of the machine to ensure the bearings don’t bind up on the shaft. Remove both bearings this way (it can be a bit fiddly) then drop one end of the cutter block shaft out through the slot in the machine housing.

    Reassemble by reversing the process. Stand the machine housing, and cutter block on its end vertically, support the bottom end of the cutter block shaft on a piece of timber then install the opposite end bearing by tapping an appropriately sized pipe sleeve up against the inner bearing race. Go slow and be gentle with reassembly… the machine housing is only cast aluminium after all. If in any doubt…stop…seek professional help.

    Once the bearings, circlips or bearing retainers are all fully installed, and your satisfied… rotate the shaft slowly by hand, while lightly tapping both ends of the shaft to release any preload on the bearings.

    The machine in the piccys below uses 6203 bearings on both ends…so be sure to check your particular machine, or bring the the bearings with you to the bearing shop. The bearing shop may ask if you want steel shield bearings, or rubber sealed bearings, I use the rubber sealed bearings (just personal choice).

    Just as an aside…the cutter block pictured below is 48 mm outside diameter, the bearings are 40 mm outside diameter…so no, the shaft won’t slide out through the bearing housings.


    No responsibility accepted.

    Cheers.


    20190831_112023.jpg

    20190831_112523.jpg

    20190831_112923_001.jpg

    20190831_113403.jpg

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