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  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by LanceC View Post
    The responses have been both surprising and informative

    With many "how" posts having been shared, may I ask the respondents to fill me in as to why they prefer their thicknesser to a table saw for this task?
    better finish, more accurate and probably safer would be my main reasons. Also I often revert to what I was taught in high school woodwork classes 35+ years ago, I don’t even recall the school having a table saw but I recall dimensioning timber through the thicknesses.

    Cheers Andrew

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  3. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by LanceC View Post
    Elan having done it in a commercial setting certainly adds weight that it is an acceptable solution.

    With many "how" posts having been shared, may I ask the respondents to fill me in as to why they prefer their thicknesser to a table saw for this task?
    Not only is it acceptable, it's normal. I don't think you'd find a commercial outfit anywhere that doesn't thickness on edge; buzz a face and an edge square, then through the thicknesser. If there's a lot to come off or you'd get a usable offcut, you'd rip it over size, then dress it down.

    It's faster, more consistent and a better finish.

  4. #18
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    Like some have said depends on the amount to be removed and also how narrow the boards are. I often avoid removing too much, but too thin - say 150 x 20 will not stand up too well, and want to go sideways. Though often do this with dressing up old house framing, At least 30mm thick normally.

  5. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by elanjacobs View Post
    Not only is it acceptable, it's normal. I don't think you'd find a commercial outfit anywhere that doesn't thickness on edge; buzz a face and an edge square, then through the thicknesser. If there's a lot to come off or you'd get a usable offcut, you'd rip it over size, then dress it down.

    It's faster, more consistent and a better finish.
    That’s what I was trying to say too but I was busy running stuff through the spindle moulder. Elan is 100% right.

  6. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by elanjacobs View Post
    Not only is it acceptable, it's normal. I don't think you'd find a commercial outfit anywhere that doesn't thickness on edge; buzz a face and an edge square, then through the thicknesser. If there's a lot to come off or you'd get a usable offcut, you'd rip it over size, then dress it down.
    True enough... but by the same token, in a commercial environment if a piece goes skew-whiff it's nothing to grab another piece for milling.

    If the piece is deemed 'irreplaceable' then most places I've worked will go that extra effort of using a fail-safe method; asled or a frame or something that stops it racking as it goes through.

    Also, in a commercial environment you do it often enough to get a feel for what will go through and what won't. I wouldn't even try it with 8x125 pieces destined to become faux ship-lap, for example.
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  7. #21
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    Use a magnetic fence or block to clamp to for thinner pieces or two blocks that support the piece between them.
    CHRIS

  8. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skew ChiDAMN!! View Post
    True enough... but by the same token, in a commercial environment if a piece goes skew-whiff it's nothing to grab another piece for milling.

    If the piece is deemed 'irreplaceable' then most places I've worked will go that extra effort of using a fail-safe method; asled or a frame or something that stops it racking as it goes through.

    Also, in a commercial environment you do it often enough to get a feel for what will go through and what won't. I wouldn't even try it with 8x125 pieces destined to become faux ship-lap, for example.
    +1 from me. This is a great teaching / knowledge post.

    I wouldn't be stacking 8 x 125's through a thicknesser either, but IF you did you would want to be really sure they were stacked up square to the infeed table. One issue with thicknessers set to wider openings is that there is minimal kick back protection and knots, or slivers can be thrown anywhere and / or ricochet. Minor cracks in thin boards on edge are a real hazard. Pays to inspect boards well before going through the thicknessser.

    One thing that is apparent to me though is that most prefer a thicknessed edge over a sawn edge for finish quality.

    I know from my experience with cutting very small components for inlay banding construction etc that there is much to be gained in investing in high quality saw blades!

    The manufacturing quality of saw blades imo has come ahead in leaps and bounds, and in performance. Blades such as the FREUD 10" Industrial Thin Kerf Glue Line Ripping Blade offer exceptional finish quality but it comes at a "cost" more & finer dust + they require more saw "horsepower." LM75R010 | Saw Blades | Ripping | Glue Line Ripping - Freud Tools In a commercial setting its all comes down to "time & money" so one has to weigh the performance gains vs time etc.
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  9. #23
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    Thank you all very much for the comments.

    You will be happy to know I dressed about 35lm of 145x38 messmate without issue. The finish was perfect (helped by my Hammer 3 C31). Saved a lot of time removing the table saw from this process.

    Cheers

  10. #24
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    Thank-you to all the "why" posts, I had no idea. I've got something new to try when my workshop gets back into a useable state.

  11. #25
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    I got the chance to try this whole "thickness timber on edge" caper today.

    We needed a while lot of 4x9 mm strips for a project, but the long edge of my stock ranged from 10 to 13 mm. I was stumped as to how to get them all the same when I recalled this thread.

    So I glued the stock together on one end so that the thicknesser swallowed a piece a bit wider than 4 mm, and it worked a treat, so thanks all. Now I just need to dock the end of my stock to get my individual strips back!



    What a clever bunch of people you all are!

  12. #26
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    More ways to skin a cat! A machine cutter friendly glue is AV Syntec AV515 if you are doing a lot of this sort of work, or laminating table tops etc.
    Mobyturns

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