Needs Pictures: 0
Picture(s) thanks: 0
Results 1 to 15 of 36
-
29th December 2019, 05:53 AM #1GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Nov 2018
- Location
- Newcastle
- Posts
- 1,016
Running painted wood through the jointer/thicknesser?
Any issues with running painted wood through the jointer and thicknesser?
Our deck is going to come down in the next few months - support structure is rotting. I’m hoping to recycle the boards and turn them into doors etc as we renovate - there might be some decent hardwood under the layer of green (ugh) paint.
There’s a lot of wood, so I’m thinking of running it all through the A3 to clean it up. It won’t be practical to strip it any other way.
-
29th December 2019 05:53 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Posts
- Many
-
29th December 2019, 06:27 AM #2GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Oct 2014
- Location
- Caroline Springs, VIC
- Posts
- 1,645
The paint will dull the cutters extremely quickly. I once had to send a pack of pink primed 42x42 LOSP through a four sided moulder just to remove the paint. I had to sharpen the knives a few times for the job, and I had to continually adjust the cutter heads because the knives were being worn away leaving the cutting edges set below the level of the tables and fences.
Taking a deeper pass so that the knives simply punch through the paint rather than sliding across the surface will help significantly.
-
29th December 2019, 08:35 AM #3
This is one instance where being "greedy" pays off, much kinder to the knives with one deep pass. If you have a spiral cutter head I would pass on putting the decking through the A3.
Hope you have a decent metal detector! Nails always get missed no matter how fastidious you are at denailing.Mobyturns
In An Instant Your Life CanChange Forever
-
29th December 2019, 10:19 AM #4.
- Join Date
- Feb 2006
- Location
- Perth
- Posts
- 27,793
If it's leaded paint, even with a decent DC you might consider wearing a respirator?
-
29th December 2019, 10:51 AM #5GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jun 2005
- Location
- Helensburgh
- Posts
- 7,696
-
29th December 2019, 10:54 AM #6Taking a break
- Join Date
- Aug 2008
- Location
- Melbourne
- Age
- 34
- Posts
- 6,127
+1 for deep cuts, it will minimise the distance travelled through the paint.
Titanium dioxide is the main component of most paints and it's quite abrasive, so carbide is going to last the longest and is probably cheaper than sharpening HSS multiple times in the long run
-
29th December 2019, 11:10 AM #7
When I have recycled painted boards I have skimmed them first with a handheld electric planer before moving on to stationary machinery. The carbide blade inserts in them seem to last for a long time bashing away at rubbish and are easily replaced. Long lengths are fairly easy to handle supported across a few sawhorses and the work can be done outside.
Franklin
-
29th December 2019, 01:50 PM #8
Wot Franklin said. The handheld has tc blades that are cheap to replace. Cleaning up old wood is the reason I have a handheld electric.
Regards
John
-
29th December 2019, 02:10 PM #9GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Nov 2012
- Location
- SE Melb
- Age
- 64
- Posts
- 1,278
+1 for electric plane with carbide blades. I bought one from aldi just for this job. Save my makita for nicer work
-
29th December 2019, 05:12 PM #10
+3 to the electric plane.
El-cheapo blades too.
-
29th December 2019, 06:06 PM #11GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Nov 2018
- Location
- Newcastle
- Posts
- 1,016
My A3 has the straight bladed head (although I'm looking into getting hold of the spiral at some point). Like Chris, I'd have thought that the spiral would be a better tool for this job - one little blade to replace each time it's used to locate a nail, and they're easy to rotate as they get blunt?
I like the handheld idea too - I have an old Festool and a bosch, so SWTSMBO can get stuck in too.
-
30th December 2019, 02:32 AM #12
If you do decide to just run 'em through the jointer and thicky, I'd suggest thicknessing 'em first, feeding them them through on an angle.
In practice this spreads the wear across the blades; if you run them "straight through" not only will you degrade one section of blade faster, but the painted sides will wear even faster, giving you what appears to be a couple of 'nicks' in the blade a board width apart..
Then joint 'em, moving the fence between passes for the same reasons.
- Andy Mc
-
30th December 2019, 11:12 AM #13
Perhaps one could buy some el-cheapo sacrificial blades just for the job?
Bung them in, bugger them up, sharpen them with an angle grinder , repeat.
Use the good ones for the final skim?
-
30th December 2019, 11:22 AM #14Taking a break
- Join Date
- Aug 2008
- Location
- Melbourne
- Age
- 34
- Posts
- 6,127
If it's a 4 knife head, you can take one opposing pair out and just run 2 knives. Just make sure you leave the clamping bars in and tighten them in the pockets, if you take them out, the noise will be unbearable.
-
30th December 2019, 11:43 AM #15
Just my 2c worth. Cheap hand electric planes can be got for less than a set of knives for your machine so why bother messing about with blade changes if you dont need to.
Regards
John
Similar Threads
-
Spray painted wood without primer - am I screwed?
By tompab in forum FINISHINGReplies: 4Last Post: 6th September 2012, 10:07 AM -
Is a combo jointer/thicknesser a good jointer
By ClintO in forum GENERAL & SMALL MACHINERYReplies: 2Last Post: 11th November 2011, 02:22 PM -
Can table saw cut painted wood surface??
By wentrunning2003 in forum TABLE SAWS & COMBINATIONSReplies: 7Last Post: 8th March 2009, 03:53 PM -
Wood lathe running costs?
By robutacion in forum WOODTURNING - GENERALReplies: 56Last Post: 23rd January 2008, 12:00 AM -
Thicknesser or Planer Thicknesser (Jointer)
By Markw in forum JOINTERS, MOULDERS, THICKNESSERS, ETCReplies: 5Last Post: 9th November 2006, 01:58 PM