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Thread: Rusty Jointer
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9th August 2010, 02:36 AM #1Apprentice implies I know something
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Rusty Jointer
Hey guys. As some will be aware, I purchased a jointer on the weekend for the princely sum of $70. I still need to buy a motor for it before I can start making sawdust, but prior to doing that, I need to get the bed back into an almost metal state, as opposed to its current state of rust. Obviously it is to large to dip like assorted hand tools, and I can't afford to get it done professionally, so just wondering if anyone has a good idea for cleaning it up and getting it back to an almost new state. Cheers and looking forward to some interesting answers.
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9th August 2010 02:36 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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9th August 2010, 07:05 AM #2
Try Lanolin, its good for scaly leg on poultry too!
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9th August 2010, 07:55 AM #3Hewer of wood
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How rusty is it?
Surface bloom you can treat with phosphoric acid (Rust Dissolver at Repco); this converts the iron oxide into something else that's black.
And/or go over the table carefully with a ROS and fine abrasive.Cheers, Ern
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9th August 2010, 10:28 AM #4Apprentice implies I know something
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Thanks for the replies guys. The bed is just surface rust from what I can see. Just one further question, would sand blasting damage the machine, and would I have to strip it right down afterwards to clean it out. The reason I ask is that I may be able to get that done at work for free or next to, just depends on who I ask.
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9th August 2010, 10:36 AM #5
I used a fine wire brush on my grinder. Electrons can save too much exertion.
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9th August 2010, 11:22 AM #6Hewer of wood
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Or a 3M paint stripper wheel in an electric drill - they're brown and about 30mm thick.
I'd be wary of sand-blasting for the same reason that care is needed with a ROS - you don't want to compromise the flatness of the table.Cheers, Ern
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9th August 2010, 07:32 PM #7
Steel wool and elbow grease will work wonders to clean up modest surface rust, 600 grit W&D paper used dry with a chipboard backer block, followed by 1200 grit and steel wool, for more heavily coated surfaces. Do full surface equally to ensure that you retain flatness.
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9th August 2010, 07:42 PM #8Member
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Rusty Jointer
A good of fish oil and let it soak in will help.
Rowley.
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9th August 2010, 08:32 PM #9Taking a break
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A largish sheet of glass with a handle siliconed to it will make a nice backing block for wet'n'dry - the bigger it is, the flatter you'll get it
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9th August 2010, 10:01 PM #10Apprentice implies I know something
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Rust gone
Thanks for all the tips guys. The winner was the angle grinder with a wire wheel. The bed and fence have both come up rather nicely thank you very much. A little bit of hard graft and the in-feed bed raises and lowers nicely as well. Picked up a 1 1/2 hp single phase motor today for a whopping $80, and will be picking up a 3 inch pulley tomorrow morning for about $15. Original 3 phase motor was 1hp, 2300 rpm with a 3 1/2 inch wheel, new motor is 2850. Will give an increase in cuts per minute of 1500 (24150 vs 25650). Intend to give the beast a paint job, and need to by a belt and build a stand, so total outlay should be about $200 for a 150 x 895 jointer which makes both me and SWMBO pretty happy.
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