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Thread: Thicknesser advice
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26th April 2017, 04:15 PM #16Member
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Yep, as mentioned above, left side is for the first few passes, then finish with the right. When i replace knives, the first chip will determine what side i use, and i draw a big arrow on the top of the thicknesser to remind myself. When planing wide boards, the first pass will leave ridges, however on the finish pass bykeepingg the depth the same and reversing the way the board is fed in the machine, the ridges will be removed.
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26th April 2017, 11:21 PM #17Intermediate Member
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28th April 2017, 09:10 PM #18Senior Member
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So I just picked up my new Carbatec 13" spiral head thicknesser... It's awesome!
Straight out of the box, there was about 50mm of snipe at either end of the oregon I ran through as a test, with a small adjustment to the feed tables, that was gone.
I ran a few offcuts of radiata pine, oregon and some ash through it and was really impressed. I was only taking 0.5mm - 1.0mm at a time but it wasn't noisy at all... To give you an idea of how quiet it is, my wife still managed to get our 2yr old daughter down for bedtime while I was running it 6ft away with only a brick veneer wall between us.
Chip clearance was fine while just using my little Ryobi shop vac, I took the shroud off afterwards and checked for build up and found none.
Really looking forward to running some more through it over the weekend.
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29th April 2017, 09:04 PM #19Senior Member
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I put some more ash through it today, and some old spotted gum flooring... The gum made some racket, even taking just 0.5mm off, and it struggled to feed in some points. I think the tables were a little high after my snipe adjustment so the board was being pressed down in the middle by the head/rollers... but it was easily overcome by keeping some light pressure on the board as it went in, and then a light pull on the way out.
Still very pleased with it, I might just be a little more selective about the hours I run hardwood through it.
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30th April 2017, 12:21 AM #20SENIOR MEMBER
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Congrats on the acquisition.
I note from your post of the 28th that you adjusted the tables .. and on the 29th you again had snipe ... take it from me ... personal experience with jointer .. that you don't really want to go changing the table's factory settings unless you have precision measuring equipment ... avoid the temptation.
The snipe at the beginning of the piece is usually caused when longer pieces are fed into the machine at an angle other than perfectly horizontal ... and if they drop on the outfeed they will also snipe .. If you aint getting snipe on short pieces (say 500mm or less) but on longer pieces then the angle of approach and departure is most likely. Build some infeed and outfeed tables and see the results before adjusting the machine tables.
I do get the occasional snipe on my combo thicknesser on heavy long pieces .... and my table is one piece of solid cast iron for its entire length. But I live with it as the logistics of 2ms of infeed table and 2m of outfeed is well beyond the price of the snipe ... also my tables changes height ... not the cutter head.
Have lots of fun with the new machine ..(I think Carbatec recommend tungsten blades if you are doing hardwoods)
Regards
Rob
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30th April 2017, 10:32 AM #21Senior Member
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Thanks for the feedback Rob, i'm quite new to some of the machines i've got now, so I appreciate any insights from those with much more knowledge.
The snipe was on a workpiece about 450mm long, the fact it was even both ends, and the snipe was the same length as the distance between the drive rollers and the cutter head, I assumed it was due to the piece entering in an upward angle, and then dropping as it exited... Because the feed tables were too low.
When I placed a straight edge (1.2m Kingchrome level) on the bed, I found that the tables were in fact low at the extremities, so I adjusted them to level this out. I slightly over adjusted them to allow for any flex in the tables, but it looks like the flex is less than I expected as on longer pieces the machine was struggling in the centre section as the cutter head was bending the longer timber down in the centre because the end of the table were slightly higher than the bed.
Because the adjustment bolts for the table are so close to the pivot point of the tables, even a tiny adjustment becomes significant when that angle is projected out to the end of the tables. Shouldn't be hard to get right though.
I'll be investing in the carbide cutters once these ones dull, which i'm expecting to happen rather quickly with the tiber i'm using... This is a price i'm willing to pay for the learning experience.
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