Thread: Thicknesser or jointer planer

I don't own a PT-260 but I'm sure it is fine as a jointer.
Obviously, the PT-260 is better if you have space limitations, but separate machines save you the hassle of switching modes on a combo machine.

Thanks for ur reply. Does it take much to change from planer to thicknesser, i would have thought it would be the same process basically.

Is it better to have a 12" thicknesser and a 6" jointer. or go with the H&F planer and thicknesser.

Eg: if u try to get a piece of timber to the same thickness at each end does the thicknesser do this or do i need a planer. I was told that a thicknesser would not make a piece of timber the same thickness all the way through.:confused:

not sure how long exactly to switch the PT-260. If Wayne is looking he might offer an answer as he has a PT-260.

A thicknesser should be able to reduce a board evenly.
But you need to have the opposite surface dead flat to run on the thicknesser table to get an even thickness. To do this you have to flatten that surface with the jointer.

Thank again for ur reply

By the sounds of it it might be better to get the thcknesser and planer. One would assume (i know the obvious comeback lol)
that the planer could also be able to be used as a jointer, excuse my ignorance with these machines but have never used em. I'm basically starting from the beginning have some wood tools and power tools but reading through the forums, I'm hoping to set up a good shop utilising the information gleaned from this site.

Any further views would be much appreciated

Thank you

Hi Woodster,

You seem to be in the same position I was 12 months ago. I've got a large single garage (7 x 3.6m) with the follwoing setup.

These are all separate machines

* Router Table (homemade)
* 10" Tablesaw (Carbatec TSC-10HB)
* 8" Jointer (Carbatec CTJ-350)
* 15" Thicknesser (H&F)
* 14" Bandsaw (Carbatec BAS-350)
* 2Hp Dust extractor placed in pitched roof cavity
* Bench Drill & Dropsaw
* Good bench space around one end of the garage with an extra table at the end of the tablesaw.

Since you have a double garage I'm sure you'll fit enough single machines. It's great moving from machine to machine without major setup changes.

Make sure you have good electrics within the garage. 20A circuits for machines & 10A for lights. 15A power points as most machines have 15A plugs nowadays & a few short 15A power extension leads.

Lots of money I know but I'm sure you'll negotiate well when purchasing multiple machines. Give Carbatec a call in Qld - think they are having a pre-Xmas sales like Sydney.

Have fun........................

PS Don't forget garage security, I've already been hit once this year. Now the garage is like fort knox. I was insured and got everything replaced thank god !

Woodster,

I too was in a similar position last year. I ended up choosing the H&F T-260 planer- thicknesser - due to my space constraint & they had the best deal at the wood show (the $ I saved allowed me to buy a dust collector). It took a little tuning eg petroleum jelly (vaseline) on the slides & some minor filing / emery work on the fence to ensure ease of adjustment.

I've been very happy with it since. Even resetting the blades is pretty easy - I use a long piece of RHS aluminium (square section) place it on the outfeed table & slowly adjust the blade up at one end till it JUST touches the RHS then do the other end then check the centre then recheck all. I have just picked up a dial indicator & base so hopefully that will make it even more accurate. Setting the blades accurately is critical to avoid snipe on the ends.

To convert from planer to thicknesser is a simple process which basically involves:
- removing the outfeed table,
- winding up the infeed table to remove the dust chute
- mounting the duct chute on top of the cutter head
- adjusting the depth of cut (I always use a test piece & creep up
to the desired thickness).

Cheers

Crozdog

'pon my soul . . .I do believe I have the same conundrum.

Am I wrong in thinking that if one buys the PT260 or equivalent that jointing width capacity is extended? Ie. there is a big jump in price from the 6" jointers up, but the combination machines give you much increased jointing capacity. I have read that some woodworking men (as opposed to us young sprouts looking from the outside though the dusty windows) do a lot of jointing and thicknessing and need the two machines. If one is doing this only occasionally, wouldn't the small amount of re-arrangement of the machine be worth the reduced cost and the increased jointing capacity??

Just a thought you know, and I need to get rid of them quickly as they get very lonely.

I went through the agonising over this myself late last year.

On the one hand, with the planer/thicknesser you get a 10" jointer into the bargain, on the other hand, with separate machines you can get a 12" plus thicknesser. My reasoning was that I can plane a 12" board on a 6" jointer but I can't thickness a 12" board in a 10" thickesser. I have the space for both (just), so I bought both.

It's a slightly more expensive option but it's very convenient not having to change over every time I want to plane a board or use the thicknesser.

I bought both machines from Hare and Forbes. The thicknesser is 13 1/2" and the jointer is the 6" P150. I did a review of the jointer here: http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...hlight=jointer

My reasoning was that I can plane a 12" board on a 6" jointer

Darren,

How are you jointing a 12" board on a 6" jointer?

Do you mean you are removing the gaurd to do it?

Craig

Not wanting to be rude and invasive but would it be possible to post approximate dollar values next to the model numbers ...... I find I often read posts at work (don’t we all) and I do not have the catalogues handy to check prices ..... I get all excited over how good some products sound until the price is mentioned and then there is the need for a rethink, even a ball park figure would be handy. It is the same when you read reviews in the woodworking mags .... they talk up a product to such a point until you must rush out and buy it until you find that the engineering square guaranteed 100% accurate is actually $10,000.

Sir Stinkalot

Well, not that I would do it nor recommend it, but if I had to do it and no-one was watching, I could do it or possibly have done it. But I would certainly use a couple of push blocks if I did.

Err, excuse me, is that the phone?

Sir Stinkalot,

I picked up my combo unit (PT260) at the wood show for around $860. I then picked up a 1hp DC from Carbatec for $169 the total for both was less than the list for the PT260!

Shop around & haggle, if you can - hold out to the wood show as I have always found top show specials!!

You can checkout quite a few catalogues online now. Have a look at :

www.timbecon.com.au (the PT260 can be found at http://www.timbecon.com.au/productsd...searchOffset=0)
http://www.carbatec.com.au/ (I have noticed thet this site doesn't seem to have all their catalogue online)
http://store.yahoo.com/gpwoodturning/index.html

Unfortunately Hare & Forbes haven't got there yet.

Crozdog

I also have the PT-260 from Carbatec and have had it for nearly two years now. I chose this machines for three reasons, principally:
1. It's a 10" Jointer
2. Small footprint for my small shop
3. Price (paid around $950 from memory)

I have thrown quite a bit of wood (hard/pine/old/new) through it and it has not falter. (Just make sure you get a metal detector to go with as blades can get expensive to replace.)

As for changing modes, I actually timed myself on the weekend to change from Jointer to Thicknesser mode - less than 50 seconds!! It is really quick. Have to agree that it took a while to get setup when I got it but what machine doesn't!! Anyway, if you are short on cash/space (and who isnt), check them out.

And the other thing that might make a difference is snipe. Does anyone know if there a significant difference between the amount of snipe you get from a combination machine to that you get from a similar quality dedicated thicknesser?