Thread: Thicknesser but thinner

If you get a sheet of ply or mdf that goes right thru to make a new deck.
Put a block at the front(feed) end underneath screwed into the ply board and then you can get it down to 2 or 3mm by feeding whatever you need over the new deck.

Thats what we have/do at the mens shed I go to.

Hope this makes sense.

Originally Posted by _fly_

If you get a sheet of ply or mdf that goes right thru to make a new deck.
Put a block at the front(feed) end underneath screwed into the ply board and then you can get it down to 2 or 3mm by feeding whatever you need over the new deck.

Thats what we have/do at the mens shed I go to.

Hope this makes sense.

You're better to glue rather than screw the block at the front - thicknessers & screws don't go well together. Make sure the grain on the block runs lengthwise along the board, as it will be thicknessed with the material.
For very thin material, you can put a block at the rear as well. The distance between the two blocks should be slightly less than the length of the material, so that it bows up slightly. The blocks should be slightly undercut to hold the material in place.

use a board like above but use double sided carpet tape to hold baord down to board.

Originally Posted by Gaza

use a board like above but use double sided carpet tape to hold baord down to board.

The problem I strike is the kickback fingers wont let me wind down the knives. I would, either , need to cut a groove in the board to take the kickback fingers, or put the board forward of the fingers; however this looks very dangerous to me.

Let me try again, think people went lala last time I described it as well.

The board I'm describing DOES NOT MOVE.
It becomes the new stable deck that the piece going thru SLIDES over.

You don't join them together, you don't glue them together or double sided tape them.
I know some people tape them together and push BOTH pieces thru as one, That is NOT my method.

The feeders of the thicknesser will drag the timber over a ply/mdf/chipboard deck.
The block underneath at front and screwed to deck stops it being pulled thru the machine.

+1 Fly that is how I have done it all my time in the trade you are simply making the platen thicker so you dont have to raise the table so close to the knives.
Regards Rod.

Originally Posted by Rod Gilbert

+1 Fly that is how I have done it all my time in the trade you are simply making the platen thicker so you dont have to raise the table so close to the knives.
Regards Rod.

Exactly Rod,

IF the blades don't come down far enough, raise the deck so its does get small enough.
And its not bolted or screwed to the thicknesser, It just sits there and you can slide it out when not needed.
At also helps with snipe if the outside deck is not long enough and the wood tries to drop causing it to lift at the blade end.
You can make this board twice/three as long as the machines deck length

+1 here as well, suicide board I think they are called, I have a 16mm thick bit of melamine (slippery)coated mdf with a block screwed to underside that locates up against the infeed table, I have also used a piece of hardwood that travels thru with the piece to be thicknessed, no stops at either end with no dramas, I would recommend tho that knives be sharp, no knots, no grain running off etc. as when you are getting down to the 2 to 3mm thickness it doesn't take much for the piece to get shredded, I prefer to use the thickness sander at those thicknesses.



Pete

Thank you people, I understand what you are saying, the only problem I have with that suggestion is the kick back fingers on the Ryobi. It does not let the blades come down anymore than 5mm up from the platen, no matter what you put under or , on the platen.AS I tried to explain, I have tried having the under-board forward of the kick back fingers, and considered this too dangerous. The other way would be to cut a groove, 90 degrees to the blades and rollers, on the board so that the kick back fingers goes into that groove.When the blade is 5mm from the platen the kickback fingers are at zero to the platen or touching the platen. Thus the limit is 5mm. No matter what. If, I rather stupidly, removed the kickback fingers I could shave the platen, now that would be clever, hey?Thanks FolksBB

Could you try setting the height of the piece you want to thickness plus the suicide board then slide the suicide board in. The fingers have to lift up in operation otherwise the machine won't work. Usually they are on a pivot.
Ben

The kickback fingers raise and lower at the same rate as the rollers and blades. So, there will always be 5mm between the suicide board or the platen, no matter what.Keep thinking folks. I appreciate the board at say 16mm mel. with the ends under-blocked, as a matter of fact, if I have thicker boards to thickness, I do use this system as it gives a better run than relying on the platen and the outer rollers that are on the Ryobi.Thanks BB